REPORT

on the ascent of Peak Kom. Academii (6439 m) via the SW wall, category 6B (second ascent) July 26 – August 4, 1979 Team of the Armed Forces of the USSR:

• Cherepov V.A. — leader
• Gaas A.V. — coach
• Gromko V.N.
• Egorov V.M.
• Zhak V.V.
• Maleev V.V.

Report

On the traverse of the peaks of Kommunisticheskaya Akademiya — "6045 m" — Garmo, performed by the combined team of the Armed Forces in 1972 (North-West Pamir)

Historical and geographical overview and characteristics of the area

In 1928, participants of the Pamir expedition of the USSR Academy of Sciences, topographer I.G. Dorofeev, first crossed the Academy of Sciences range from east to west and discovered a large glacier flowing into the Vanch valley. The glacier was named after the Geographical Society. The length of the glacier was determined to be 18 km. The glacier is located in the upper reaches of the Vanch river valley. In the area of the Kasal-ayak pass, it seems to merge with the Fedchenko glacier. However, the main branches of the RGO glacier originate from:

• the southern slopes of Garmo peak, one of the largest centers of glaciation in the north-western Pamir;
• the south-western slopes of Kommunisticheskaya Akademiya peak. To the south, the RGO glacier receives a large tributary — the Krasnoarmeets glacier. A detailed study of the RGO glacier was conducted in 1948 by a comprehensive geographical expedition of Moscow University. The total length of the glacier from the slopes of Garmo and Komakademiya was determined to be 21 km. The width is about 1 km. The RGO glacier is dominated by two high peaks:
• Garmo peak;
• Kommunisticheskaya Akademiya peak.

36

Report

on the traverse of the Kommunisticheskoy Akademii 6175–OGPU peaks, accomplished by the team from the Novosibirsk City Committee for FIS in 1975. Main sections of the traverse of the Komaakademii–5900–OGPU peaks Southern wall of Kommunisticheskoy Akademii peak

3. Tactical Plan of the Ascent

Organization of the Ascent

Report

On the ascent of the Chelyabinsk regional council team of the "Zenit" sports society to Peak Kommunizma via the 5B category difficulty route for the "Zenit" Central Sports Council championship in the high-altitude climbing class Chelyabinsk, 1972

Geographical description and sporting characteristics of the ascent route

Peak Kommunizma (7495) rises at the junction of the Peter the First and Academy of Sciences ridges (Fig. 1). The main questions of the orography of the Peak Kommunizma mountain node were resolved in 1932 by an expedition of the USSR Academy of Sciences. To the northeast of the peak lies the powerful Bivachny glacier, and to the southeast of the summit, at an altitude of 6000–6100 m, lies the "Pravda" peak plateau. To the northwest of the summit, at an altitude of 5700–6000 m, along the Peter the First ridge for ten kilometers, lies the Pamir firn plateau, representing an almost flat snow field. The summit tower of Peak Kommunizma descends steeply on the north and west with rocky slopes. To the west, at an altitude of 6900 m (Photo 1, R11), it is adjoined by a horizontal slope - the "Shoulder" of Peak Kommunizma - which forms the "Big Barrier" of the plateau. From the shoulder, a snow-ice slope descends to the plateau (northwest) with a clearly defined counterfort (Photo 1, R8–R10). This path was first taken by the VTsSPS expedition led by K. Kuzmin in 1957 to reach Peak Kommunizma. The ascent to the plateau was explored and made from the side of the Garmo glacier. And in 1968, three expeditions of the "Burevestnik" sports society conquered Peak Kommunizma from the side of the Fortambek glacier, ascending to the plateau via the "Burevestnik" ridge. Our team chose this route to conquer the highest point of the Soviet Union. Out of nine routes by which Peak Kommunizma has been conquered, this route is one of the safest and is classified as 5B category difficulty (all routes to Peak Kommunizma are rated not lower than 5B category).

Ascent Passport

1. Region, valley, section number according to the classification table (2001) - 4.1 Mountain region: Pamir (Tajikistan) Range: at the junction of Akademiya Nauk and Petra Pervogo.
2. Name of the peak: Kommunizm (7495 m), route name: via S slope from Walter's Glacier through BSP and "Big Barrier" (Borodkin's variant via Dushanbe Pass)
3. Category of difficulty – 5Ba
4. Route type: snow-ice
5. Height difference of the route: 3000 m Route length: 7250 m.

I. High-altitude class. 2. Pamir. Akademiya Nauk Range. 3. Peak Kommunizma, 7495 m, via the northern route through p. 6950 m (Borodkin) 4. Difficulty category — 5A 5. Elevation gain: 3300 m average slope of the route 40° section lengths:

• R2 — 1200 m
• R3 — 4000 m
• R4 — 600 m

Russian Mountaineering Championship

High-altitude class

2018

REPORT of the Rostov-Arkhangelsk region team on the ascent of Peak Kommunizma via the Borodkin route

Ascent Details

1. Region: 4. PAMIR 4.1. Academy of Sciences range (western side of Fedchenko glacier from Yazgulyam pass in the south to Muksu river in the north with all lateral spurs)

Report

On ascending the peak of Ismoila Somoni (formerly Peak Kommunizma) via the southern slope from Walter Glacier, BPP, and "Big Barrier" ("Classics") - ice-snow route, category 5A difficulty, by the "Bars" team from August 11, 2022, to August 20, 2022.

I. Ascent Report

41. Kommunizma. P. Budanov, 68.

4.1.40. Brief geographical description. Sporting characteristics of the ascent object and route conditions

The highest point in the USSR - Peak Kommunizma -32,7495 m, is located in the Academy of Sciences Range in the Central Pamir. This area is quite frequently visited by mountaineering expeditions and is fairly well studied both geographically and in terms of mountaineering. The rocky formations in this area are quite brittle and fragile, posing an objective danger when overcome. A large amount of precipitation falls in the area of the Academy of Sciences Range, and the weather is quite unstable with strong winds. After the first ascent by E.M. Abalakova in 1933 via the W ridge, a large number of ascents to Peak Kommunizma have been made from various sides, and this year saw the largest number of climbers. A total of 62 people reached the summit, including the first woman.

2. Reconnaissance

July 17-21, a group consisting of Kletsko K.B., Agranovskii G.L., and Kletsko B.B. went to the area of height 4600 m (the location of the previous expedition's assault camp at the junction of the Kommunizma and Ordzhonikidze glaciers) to receive cargo dropped by helicopter and to visually observe the state of the route.

Report

on the ascent of the Leningrad Sports Committee team to Peak Shchurovsky via the Western wall "Surka" and the edge of the bastion of the Northern wall, category 5B (variant) Team captain — S.G. Kalmykov Team coach — A.I. Moshnikov Central Caucasus January – February 1983

Brief geographical description and sporting characteristics of Peak Shchurovsky

Peak Shchurovsky is located in the Main Caucasian Range, which forms a complex zigzag in this area. The south-eastern ridge descends to the Western peak of Chatyn-Tau, and the north-eastern ridge descends to the Lожный Chatyn pass. To the south of the peak, reaching an altitude of 4100 m, is the famous Ushba plateau, descending along the western slopes of the peak with a grandiose Ushba icefall. The northern wall of the peak faces the Shkheldinsky glacier. On its kilometer-long slope, cut by snow and ice couloirs, the upper bastion stands out with a dark steep face, the right edge of which rests on the north-western counterfort, having a steep western wall. The rocks of the bastion and the western wall "Surka" are characterized by their monolithic nature and smoothed relief, reminiscent of the relief: