Fig. 40 205. Chanchakhi (4461 m) via the South Ridge (a combined route, M. Zvezdin, category 4A). The path from the CSP of the Tsey region (a group of 4-8 people) to the Tsey-Tbilisi pass with the initial bivouac on the upper plateau of the Northern branch of the Tsey glacier under the pass is described in the routes:

• 83
• 124 From the pass, descend first along simple rocks, then along a snowy slope, and through the bergschrund, exit to the upper snowy plateau of the Tbiliza glacier. Along the glacier, having passed a little to the left and down, turn left and, overcoming the bergschrund, exit to the right side of the wide ice-and-snow southwestern slope of the South Ridge of Chanchakhi peak. Along the steep slope, adhering to small right rocky islands, 400-500 m up to the South ice-and-snow ridge (possible rockfall, avalanches - piton belay). Here, turn left and along the ice-and-snow ridge (cornices) approach under the rocky ascent of the summit tower. Along a narrow rocky, above medium difficulty, vertical corner-chimney ("live" stones - piton belay) the ascent is 25-30 m to the wall. Further:
• first along steep 50-60-meter rocks of medium difficulty,
• then along simple rocks of the South Ridge - ascend to the summit of Chanchakhi.

Ascent via the Southeast Buttress and South Ridge

(combined route, category 4B difficulty) From the tourist base in the Tsey district, reach the upper branch of the Tsey Glacier under the saddle ridge between Mamison and Chanchakhi peaks. Traverse the glacier (closed crevasses) to approach the left side of the ridge connecting Mami-son and Chanchakhi peaks, col. From the glacier, overcome the bergschrund and ascend the steep snow-ice slope to the rocks of the counterfort descending from the left side. Then, keeping to the right side of the counterfort rocks (possible rockfall), ascend a steep snow-ice slope (ice axe and insurance) to the Tsey-Chanchakhi col (cornice). On the col, traverse 60–80 m to the right, then ascend the broad, steep southeast slope of Chanchakhi peak under numerous outcrops (possible rockfall and avalanches — R factor). Traverse left and up towards the rocks of the Southeast Buttress of the South Ridge of Chanchakhi. Overcome a glacial crevasse and ascend the steep ice slope (possible rockfall — piton insurance) to the rocks on the right side of the buttress. Further, on simple and moderately difficult broken rocks, with a 25-meter wall of average difficulty above, ascend in the middle part of the Southeast Buttress to the South Ridge. Do not descend; turn right instead. On the steep snow-ice South Ridge (ice axe and insurance), then on moderately difficult rocks and finally on a corner-chimney (loose rocks — piton insurance), overcome a wall. Further, on steep 50-meter rocks of average difficulty and then on simple rocks of the South Ridge, reach the summit of Chanchakhi. From the last bivouac on the plateau to the summit takes R2–R3 hours. Bivouac on the summit is possible. Descent is via the South Ridge. The total duration of the route is 3–4 days.

The path from the sports camp of the Tsey district to the col of the Tsey-Chanchakhi pass is an initial bivouac on the plateau of the Northern branch of the Tsey Glacier. Along the snowy col, then along the steep 100–120-meter ice-snow ridge (cornices) to approach the rocky walls of the summit ice of the Eastern ridge of Chanchakhi. From the ridge, traverse 60–80 m to the right to steep slabs of medium difficulty to an internal corner. From here, ascent (pitons belay) along the rocks above medium difficulty of the 20-meter internal corner, and above, along a 60–80-meter wall. Then traverse 60–80 m to the right along simple rocks («live» stones). Along snowy rocks of medium difficulty, ascend to the shoulder area of the Eastern ridge. From the shoulder area, go up along a simple snowy ridge. Then, traverse to the right with a slight ascent along simple and medium difficulty snowy rocks («live» stones — belay) to exit onto a buttress. Along rocks above medium difficulty of the buttress (pitons belay), reach simple destroyed rocks (snowy), and ascend to the summit of Chanchakhi. From the initial bivouac on the plateau II–13 hours. Bivouac on the summit. Descent along the ascent route or along the Southern ridge. Route duration is 3–4 days.

Chernyshev Peak

Peak Arkady Chernyshev (3900 m), named in memory of the coach of the BMSTU climbers, is located in the Main Ridge, in the southeastern corner of the Western branch of the Karaugom Plateau, rising above it by 150–200 m. To the north of the peak, the Eastern summit of the Bokos massif towers, and to the west, there is a low trapezoid of Uvarov Peak. Chernyshev Peak was conquered by:

• V. Miklashevsky,
• I. Erokhin,
• L. Kalishevsky,
• K. Limarev,
• A. Chernobrovkin,
• V. Feodosiev, and others on August 8, 1946.

ASCENT FORM

1. Ascent category: ice-snow
2. Ascent region: Caucasus: 2.8: Genaldon River valley
3. Peak, route: Geodesist Peak (4138 m): from NE via the glacier
4. Estimated difficulty category – 3B, first ascent
5. Route description:
   • elevation gain – 500 m
   • route length – 770 m
   • length of 3B category sections – 640 m
   • average slope of the main route section – 40°

Description of the state of the route to the summit of Shau-khokh (4636 m) via the eastern ridge, category 2B complexity. The nature of the route as of September 2015:

• snow-ice
• rock sections do not present technical difficulties

Approaches

To get to the village of Verkhny Koni, register at the border post (the summit is located in a border area, and a permit is required to climb; it's best to obtain it in advance), then go up to the village of Tmenikau. 2 km further up the gorge is a border post, the farthest point reachable by car. From the border post, a gentle, wide trail (formerly a geological road) leads up the Genaldon gorge to the warm mineral springs in front of the tongue of the Maili glacier. This is where the base camp for climbing Mt. Kazbek from the north is located. There are places for tents and water. The distance from the border post to the springs is about 9 km, taking around 4 hours on foot. The trail continues over a suspension bridge across the Genaldon river to the lateral moraine of the Maili glacier, ending at the glacier's tongue. Then:

• climb onto the tongue of the Maili glacier (morphology changes frequently, from a steep ice wall to a gentle passage consisting of moraine deposits) near its western edge,
• cross to the lateral moraine and move along it beside the Genaldon river until a left (orographic) tributary flows into it,

Ascents on Jimarai-khokh (4778 m) via the western edge 4A–4B cat. diff. The Midagrabin Glacier area is adjacent to the Kazbek high-altitude area to the west and is located in the eastern part of the Central Caucasus. The highest peak in the area and North Ossetia - Jimarai-khokh - is located in the upper reaches of the Midagrabin Glacier. Jimarai-khokh, being a nodal peak of the forward ridge, is connected:

• by the eastern ridge - with Maili-khokh (4602 m),
• by the northern ridge - with Shau-khokh (4646 m),
• by the southern ridge - with Suatisi-khokh (4453 m). The steep ice-rock western edge descends onto the Midagrabin Glacier. For the first time, the western edge of Jimarai-khokh was climbed by a group of North Ossetian climbers led by I. Suzhaev in 1955. In 1958, a group of climbers from the "Lokomotiv" sports society led by L. Tsybin made a second ascent of the route. All participants of both groups were 1st class climbers and Candidate Masters of Sports. Day I. The starting point for the ascent is the city of Ordzhonikidze, from where they follow the road through the villages:
• Gizel,
• Dargavs,

The peaks of Jimarai-khok (4776 m), "4398" and Soutisi-khok (4473 m) are located west of the peak Kazbek in the spur of its snowy massif and limit the Midagravin plateau from the east and southeast. Jimarai-khok is the highest peak in the mountains of North Ossetia. Its icy-rocky northern wall is clearly visible in clear weather from the city of Ordzhonikidze between the white caps of Kazbek and Shau-khokh (4000 m). The peaks of Jimarai-khok, "4398" and Soutisi-khokh are composed of schists cut by diabases and effusives, and have significant glaciation. The western rocky ridge of Jimarai consists of effusive rocks. The first ascent to Jimarai was made by a group led by Z. Japaridze in 1935 via the western rocky ridge. In subsequent years:

• In 1950, climbers from the "Medik" Sports Society of North Ossetia visited Jimarai again.
• In 1955, a group from the North Ossetian alpine section led by Suzhaev traversed the peaks of Jimarai-khok - Shau-khokh, which was rated as a category 5B route.
• The peak Soutisi was first conquered by a group led by S.V. Polyakov in 1956 via a ridge ascent from the Tep pass. No one has ever been to the peak "4398", which remains nameless. The beauty of the Jimarai, Soutisi peaks and the snowy-icy ridge with cornices and icicles between them prompted the climbers from the "Lokomotiv" Sports Society to undertake this traverse, which is described below.

ROUTE DESCRIPTION

Traverse of the peaks Dzhimaraikhokh (4778 m) — "4398" — Suatisi-Khokh (4473 m) 5A cat. diff. The peaks Dzhimaraikhokh (4778 m), "4398" and Suatisi-Khokh (4473 m) are located in the Lateral Range of the Caucasus, west of the peak Kazbek. Their massifs limit the Midagrabin plateau from the east and southeast. Dzhimaraikhokh is the highest peak in the mountains of North Ossetia. The ice masses of Dzhimaraikhokh and Suatisi-Khokh are connected by a ridge. The peaks Dzhimaraikhokh, "4398" and Suatisi-Khokh:

• are composed of schists cut through by diabase dykes;
• have significant glaciation. The western rock-ice rib of Dzhimaray steeply descends into the upper cirque of the Midagrabin glacier. The first ascent on Dzhimaraikhokh was made via the eastern ridge by a group led by A. Dzaparidze in 1935. The traverse of the peaks Dzhimaraikhokh — Shau-Khokh is classified as 4A cat. diff.

Zilga-Khokh Main via Eastern Ridge, 2B–3A category of difficulty

The summit is located in the eastern part of the Central Caucasus. The beautiful double-peaked Zilga-Khokh massif rises at the junction of the Main Watershed Ridge and the ridge of submeridional orientation, which is a continuation of the chain of Sivaraut peaks (southwestern spur of the Midagrabin horseshoe). Zilga-Khokh is directly adjacent to the peaks:

• Vatsis-Pars (3400 m) to the north,
• Kalasan (3780 m) to the east. The massif has the appearance of a paired cone with two peaks - the Main peak (3853 m) and the western peak (3820 m) - a nodal peak, reminiscent of Kamchatka volcanoes in shape. From the saddle, a small cirque glacier descends to the north with a beautiful icefall in the middle reaches. A cirque glacier, partially littered with rock debris, is located east of the massif. The streams flowing from these glaciers give rise to the Terek River, from the upper reaches of which it is most convenient to ascend to the peaks of Zilga-Khokh. The Terek River flows for about 30 km to the east, separating the Watershed and Lateral ridges of the Caucasus. The gorge is called Trussov. The gorge is notable for its abundance of narzan springs of different fountaining and mineral composition. There is even a narzan lake. This testifies to the extinct, once active, volcanic activity in the area.