The path from the sports camp of the Tsey district to the col of the Tsey-Chanchakhi pass is an initial bivouac on the plateau of the Northern branch of the Tsey Glacier.

Along the snowy col, then along the steep 100–120-meter ice-snow ridge (cornices) to approach the rocky walls of the summit ice of the Eastern ridge of Chanchakhi.

From the ridge, traverse 60–80 m to the right to steep slabs of medium difficulty to an internal corner.

From here, ascent (pitons belay) along the rocks above medium difficulty of the 20-meter internal corner, and above, along a 60–80-meter wall.

Then traverse 60–80 m to the right along simple rocks («live» stones).

Along snowy rocks of medium difficulty, ascend to the shoulder area of the Eastern ridge.

From the shoulder area, go up along a simple snowy ridge. Then, traverse to the right with a slight ascent along simple and medium difficulty snowy rocks («live» stones — belay) to exit onto a buttress. Along rocks above medium difficulty of the buttress (pitons belay), reach simple destroyed rocks (snowy), and ascend to the summit of Chanchakhi.

From the initial bivouac on the plateau II–13 hours. Bivouac on the summit.

Descent along the ascent route or along the Southern ridge. Route duration is 3–4 days.

Sources

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