Ascent via the Southeast Buttress and South Ridge

(combined route, category 4B difficulty) From the tourist base in the Tsey district, reach the upper branch of the Tsey Glacier under the saddle ridge between Mamison and Chanchakhi peaks. Traverse the glacier (closed crevasses) to approach the left side of the ridge connecting Mami-son and Chanchakhi peaks, col. From the glacier, overcome the bergschrund and ascend the steep snow-ice slope to the rocks of the counterfort descending from the left side. Then, keeping to the right side of the counterfort rocks (possible rockfall), ascend a steep snow-ice slope (ice axe and insurance) to the Tsey-Chanchakhi col (cornice). On the col, traverse 60–80 m to the right, then ascend the broad, steep southeast slope of Chanchakhi peak under numerous outcrops (possible rockfall and avalanches — R factor). Traverse left and up towards the rocks of the Southeast Buttress of the South Ridge of Chanchakhi. Overcome a glacial crevasse and ascend the steep ice slope (possible rockfall — piton insurance) to the rocks on the right side of the buttress. Further, on simple and moderately difficult broken rocks, with a 25-meter wall of average difficulty above, ascend in the middle part of the Southeast Buttress to the South Ridge. Do not descend; turn right instead. On the steep snow-ice South Ridge (ice axe and insurance), then on moderately difficult rocks and finally on a corner-chimney (loose rocks — piton insurance), overcome a wall. Further, on steep 50-meter rocks of average difficulty and then on simple rocks of the South Ridge, reach the summit of Chanchakhi. From the last bivouac on the plateau to the summit takes R2–R3 hours. Bivouac on the summit is possible. Descent is via the South Ridge. The total duration of the route is 3–4 days.