Fig. 40
- Chanchakhi (4461 m) via the South Ridge (a combined route, M. Zvezdin, category 4A).
The path from the CSP of the Tsey region (a group of 4-8 people) to the Tsey-Tbilisi pass with the initial bivouac on the upper plateau of the Northern branch of the Tsey glacier under the pass is described in the routes:
- 83
- 124
From the pass, descend first along simple rocks, then along a snowy slope, and through the bergschrund, exit to the upper snowy plateau of the Tbiliza glacier. Along the glacier, having passed a little to the left and down, turn left and, overcoming the bergschrund, exit to the right side of the wide ice-and-snow southwestern slope of the South Ridge of Chanchakhi peak.
Along the steep slope, adhering to small right rocky islands, 400-500 m up to the South ice-and-snow ridge (possible rockfall, avalanches - piton belay). Here, turn left and along the ice-and-snow ridge (cornices) approach under the rocky ascent of the summit tower. Along a narrow rocky, above medium difficulty, vertical corner-chimney ("live" stones - piton belay) the ascent is 25-30 m to the wall. Further:
- first along steep 50-60-meter rocks of medium difficulty,
- then along simple rocks of the South Ridge - ascend to the summit of Chanchakhi.
From the Tsey-Tbilisi pass, 10-14 hours. On the site before the exit to the summit - a bivouac.
Descent is along the ascent route. The duration of the route is 3-4 days. Naumov A. F. Karaugom, Digoriya, Tsey (Central Caucasus), M., "Fizkultura i sport", 1976.