39. Peak Tikhonov via North Face — Cat. 4A (L. Alekshashin, V. Koptev and Yu. Minin — August 14, 1959). The route from the Bezengi alpine camp to the bivouac on the Southern ridge of the Utug gendarme is described in route 18. Bivouac on the Southern ridge. From the bivouac:

• Descend to the glacier above the third stage of the icefall
• Cross the glacier to the right towards the North Face of Peak Tikhonov
• On the glacier (with crampons!), bypass the base of the northern rock walls of Peak Tikhonov on the left
• Move along the right side of a steep, wide snow-ice slope — a couloir descending from the saddle — the junction of the Eastern ridge of Peak Tikhonov and the Western ridge of Koshtantau peak
• Ascend 200 m up to the base of the rock wall
• Ascend 70 m up steep snow-covered difficult rocks of the wall — to the right (pitched climbing!) to reach the left counterfort

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Technical climbing category
2. Central Caucasus, Krumkol gorge
3. Traverse of Tikhonov Peak — Koshtantau with ascent to Tikhonov Peak via the South Face
4. Proposed 5B category, first ascent of Tikhonov Peak South Face
5. Total elevation gain: 1595 m, total distance: 2310 m, including wall section: 1070 m elevation gain, 1255 m distance. Total distance of 5–6 category sections: 870 m, including 680 m on the wall section, of which 120 m are category 6. Average steepness of the wall section: 60°
6. Total pitons used:

   Piton type	Rock	Chocks	Ice screws	Bolts
   	118	69	34	-

3. Uky via the Southeast Ridge, 2A.

From the “Ukyu-kosh” hut, ascend via the trail to the “golubyatnya” FAP shelter and reach the M. Ukyu glacier. Traverse the right side to bypass the steep rise of the glacier under the base of Ukyu's South ridge, then proceed along the middle of the glacier towards the Ukyu col. 250 m before the col (1.5–2 hours from the “golubyatnya”), move from the glacier leftward onto the talus under the base of the Southeastern ridge's rocky massif that descends towards the col. Along the boundary between the rocks (on the right) and the wide talus couloir, ascend to the talus “shoulder” of Ukyu's Southeast ridge — 1–1.5 hours from the glacier. Along the rocky ridge with simultaneous protection via outcrops and pitons, the “jandarms” are passed directly. The pre-summit rise of the ridge is overcome via the wall left of the ridge: from the talus saddle (possibly snowy), traverse left along a ledge for 30 m, then up and right via a wide rock chimney, exiting it leftward through a cleft with a plug, then via moss-covered blocks onto the ridge — protection via outcrops. In other variations of ascending the rise, piton protection is used. The gentle pre-summit section is passed simultaneously along the ridge line. 2–2.5 hours from reaching the ridge. Descent follows the ascent route down to the “golubyatnya”, taking 1.5–2 hours. Special equipment: 5–6 rock pitons or chocks.

4. Ukyu via NW ridge, 3A category

The ascent to the saddle between Gidan and Ukyu is described in route 2. From the saddle, traverse right, bypassing the first rocks along a snowy slope and then along a wide, crumbling ridge to the wall of the 1st "gendarme." Traverse left along a 6–7 m inclined ledge and then climb 20–25 m with piton protection up a steep internal angle (caution! — ice is possible) to a ridge with good rock features. Continue along the line of the gentle ridge with solid and reliable rock features (caution! — do not descend to the left onto ledges below the ridge — the rocks here are heavily broken and the features are unreliable). Descend from the upper point along a rocky ridge and snowy slope to a wide saddle. In an emergency, it is possible to abandon the route from here via the S couloir. From the saddle, ascend to the summit of Maly Ukyu across snow and simple rocks (caution — ice is possible). Continue along the ridge and descend to the left of the ridge along a rocky couloir and snowy slope to a pre-summit saddle. It is also possible to abandon the route from here via the second S couloir. From the saddle, ascend a 40–50 m snow-ice slope, then traverse rocks on a wide ridge to a gentle "shoulder." From there, ascend a snowy-icy slope to the S ridge. Traverse left along the ridge for 30–40 m to the summit. The ascent from the saddle takes 6–8 hours. Descend along the SE ridge as described previously. Hazardous locations: on ledges to the left of the ridge, beyond the 1st "gendarme," the rocks are heavily broken. Special equipment:

• 5–7 rock pitons
• 2–3 ice screws
• crampons for all participants

Ukyu by the left edge of the W wall of the S ridge, 3B.

From the KSP "Golubiatnia" shelter, head to the glacier and along its left edge approach the left corner of the W. wall of the S. ridge of Ukyu. From the glacier, ascend the slope of the right-bank moraine to the left, and behind its ridge, through the gully between the gray (left) and black scree, reach the cape of the left edge. Another option: from "Golubiatnia" ascend the slope to the moraine ridge and then along the ridge approach the route. From "Golubiatnia" — 0.5 hours. Ascend the couloir to the left or right of the edge ridge for 20–80 m, then reach the edge ridge and continue with simultaneous protection via ledges and rock pitons to the control cairn on a wide terrace; from the start — 1 hour. To bypass the overhanging rocks on the left, ascend the rock wall for 120–150 m with good holds in the general direction under the "gendarme" that has the shape of a finger against the sky background. Depending on the conditions, 15–25 protection points may be required in this section (pitons, chocks, slings). After reaching the ridge: the key location is the sharp "gendarme," initially passed head-on, then along the ridge. Continue along the edge and the 3 slope to reach the gentle S. ridge and along it (cautiously — overhanging cornices are possible to the right) to the summit. From the start of the route — 6–8 hours. Descent along the SE ridge as described in 3 — to "Golubiatnia" — 1.5–2 hours. Hazardous areas: on the 3 slopes of the S. ridge — rockfall hazard (a lengthy detour of the lower part of the route is unacceptable), and overhanging cornices are possible on the pre-summit section of the S ridge to the right. Special equipment: rock pitons and chock stones — 12–15 pcs., working carabiners — 10–12 pcs., slings made of main rope — 2 pcs. (for extenders and protection on ledges).

Ascent Passport

1. Caucasus, Bezen­gi area, Ukyu gorge. Section 2.5 according to the 2013 classification table.
2. To Mt. Malaya Ukyu, height 4240 m, via the couloir and the northwest ridge.
3. Proposed category: 1B, first ascent.
4. The route is combined.
5. Height difference: 800 m.
6. 2 rappel loops left on the route.
7. Moving time: 8 hours.
8. Leader: Slot­yuk A.A., CMS (Candidate for Master of Sports), participants: Ryab­ov I.V., MSIC (Master of Sports of International Class), Ryab­ov S.I., III sports category.
9. Coach: Slot­yuk A.A.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category: rock climbing
2. Ascent area: Caucasus, Bezengi, Northern spur of the Main Caucasian Range
3. Peak: Malaya Ukyu (4240 m) via the left southern counterfort
4. Proposed category of difficulty: 3A
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 450 m, average steepness — 33°, section lengths:
   • 2A — 150 m
   • 2B — 170 m
   • 3A — 330 m

Climbing Passport of Voskoboev and Orlov

1. Climbing category: 2B
2. Climbing area: Caucasus, North spur of Ukru
3. Peak: Malaya Ukyu, via rock counterfort
4. Proposed category difficulty: 2B
5. Character: rocky; elevation gain: 460 m, average steepness: 35°, length: 620 m
6. Pitons driven for protection: rock 6, ice –, used chocks 1
7. Movement time: 9.5 hours
8. Number of nights: –
9. Participants: Gashnogo V.N. — 1st category — leader, Koshevnick B.L. — MS — member, Stepanov E.P. — CMS, Naranenko V.L. — 1st category, Meshalkin N.P. — 1st category, Konin M.M. — 1st category, Danichkina L.G. — 1st category

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: rock (up to 4250 m).
2. Ascent area: Caucasus, Bezengi, Northern spur of the Main Caucasian Ridge.
3. Peak: East Ural (4150 m) via the counterfort of the North wall.
4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain: 550 m. average steepness: 67°. section lengths: 4th grade – 200 m, 5th grade – 245 m (including 5B and 6th grade – 210 m).
6. Pitons driven: | | For belay | For creating ITO | |---------------------|---------------|------------------|

Ascent Passport

1. Climbing category: rock.
2. Ascent area: Central Caucasus, Bezengi.
3. Object of ascent: v. Ural V. via the SE wall.
4. Proposed route - 5B category of complexity, first ascent.
5. Height difference - 550 m, length - 684 m. Length of sections with 5-6 category of complexity - 545 m. Average steepness of main sections is 70° (3600-4080), including 6 category of complexity at 87° (3600-3685); 85° (3715-3770).
6. Pitons hammered: rock 65, bolt 7, chocks 72, 3.
7. Team's man-hours - 20 and days - 2.