Ukyu by the left edge of the W wall of the S ridge, 3B.

From the KSP "Golubiatnia" shelter, head to the glacier and along its left edge approach the left corner of the W. wall of the S. ridge of Ukyu. From the glacier, ascend the slope of the right-bank moraine to the left, and behind its ridge, through the gully between the gray (left) and black scree, reach the cape of the left edge.

Another option: from "Golubiatnia" ascend the slope to the moraine ridge and then along the ridge approach the route. From "Golubiatnia" — 0.5 hours.

Ascend the couloir to the left or right of the edge ridge for 20–80 m, then reach the edge ridge and continue with simultaneous protection via ledges and rock pitons to the control cairn on a wide terrace; from the start — 1 hour. To bypass the overhanging rocks on the left, ascend the rock wall for 120–150 m with good holds in the general direction under the "gendarme" that has the shape of a finger against the sky background. Depending on the conditions, 15–25 protection points may be required in this section (pitons, chocks, slings).

After reaching the ridge: the key location is the sharp "gendarme," initially passed head-on, then along the ridge. Continue along the edge and the 3 slope to reach the gentle S. ridge and along it (cautiously — overhanging cornices are possible to the right) to the summit. From the start of the route — 6–8 hours.

Descent along the SE ridge as described in 3 — to "Golubiatnia" — 1.5–2 hours. Hazardous areas: on the 3 slopes of the S. ridge — rockfall hazard (a lengthy detour of the lower part of the route is unacceptable), and overhanging cornices are possible on the pre-summit section of the S ridge to the right.

Special equipment: rock pitons and chock stones — 12–15 pcs., working carabiners — 10–12 pcs., slings made of main rope — 2 pcs. (for extenders and protection on ledges).