3. Uky via the Southeast Ridge, 2A.

From the “Ukyu-kosh” hut, ascend via the trail to the “golubyatnya” FAP shelter and reach the M. Ukyu glacier. Traverse the right side to bypass the steep rise of the glacier under the base of Ukyu's South ridge, then proceed along the middle of the glacier towards the Ukyu col. 250 m before the col (1.5–2 hours from the “golubyatnya”), move from the glacier leftward onto the talus under the base of the Southeastern ridge's rocky massif that descends towards the col. Along the boundary between the rocks (on the right) and the wide talus couloir, ascend to the talus “shoulder” of Ukyu's Southeast ridge — 1–1.5 hours from the glacier.

Along the rocky ridge with simultaneous protection via outcrops and pitons, the “jandarms” are passed directly. The pre-summit rise of the ridge is overcome via the wall left of the ridge: from the talus saddle (possibly snowy), traverse left along a ledge for 30 m, then up and right via a wide rock chimney, exiting it leftward through a cleft with a plug, then via moss-covered blocks onto the ridge — protection via outcrops. In other variations of ascending the rise, piton protection is used. The gentle pre-summit section is passed simultaneously along the ridge line. 2–2.5 hours from reaching the ridge.

Descent follows the ascent route down to the “golubyatnya”, taking 1.5–2 hours. Special equipment: 5–6 rock pitons or chocks.