Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: rock (up to 4250 m).
2. Ascent area: Caucasus, Bezengi, Northern spur of the Main Caucasian Ridge.
3. Peak: East Ural (4150 m) via the counterfort of the North wall.
4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain: 550 m. average steepness: 67°. section lengths: 4th grade – 200 m, 5th grade – 245 m (including 5B and 6th grade – 210 m).
6. Pitons driven:

7. Number of walking hours: 16.
8. Number of overnight stays: —
9. Participants: Tratsevich A.I., CMS; Platkov V.Ya., CMS.
10. Team coach: Saratov Yuri Sergeevich, senior instructor, Master of Sports of the USSR.
11. Date of route reconnaissance: August 9, 1978.
12. Date of ascent and return: August 10, 1978.

Photo #2. Profile view. www.alpfederation.ru↗

Main route characteristics

Steepness graph

R0–R1. From M. Ukyu glacier, across snow, up and right, under the bergschrund. From the bergschrund, up the ice slope to the base of the counterfort, towards two inner corners that form a likeness of a gate at the lower part of the wall (Photo #3). R1–R2. From here, up the right inner corner. Movement is via the inner corner itself, using its left and right walls, which have a series of vertical cracks suitable for pitons (chocks are used effectively). 5 m of medium difficulty rock, then 10 m of high difficulty. After 15 m, the rocks become very smooth, holds are absent, and there are no cracks. A bolt piton was driven here and a ladder used. R2–R3. From the bolt piton up, very difficult climbing on rocks with small holds. 3 m from the bolt piton, exit from the inner corner, using a ladder, right onto the wall where there are small holds. Climbing is mainly on friction; up — piton belay via the inner corner — 8–10 m, with an exit onto a small ledge. 5 m higher, there is an oblique ledge with a sharp protrusion on the right part, where two people can gather. From the start of the rocks to this point is 40 m. R3–R4. From the ledge, 4 m up, under a narrow flake going right to left and at 70°–75°, transitioning into a crack after 4–5 m. Further, via narrow cracks, 22 m horizontal traverse left, 7–8 m, towards the vertex of the left inner corner. R4–R5. Up the inclined slab ( местами with flow ice) under 60°–65°, a cornice, under which is a difficult traverse right, 4–5 m, to the start of a crack going up the left side of the counterfort. Here, a semi-hanging belay station is organized (Photo #4). R5–R6. Movement is via the crack. Initially, it is narrow and steep, then becomes less steep at 85°–90° and transitions into a flake. Climbing is difficult, feet on friction. For belay, wide wedges and channels are necessary. For artificial holds, chocks are used effectively. After 35 m from the start of the crack, there is a place for a hanging belay station. There are no better places for receiving a partner on this section (Photo #5). R6–R7. Further, the crack becomes wider and steeper and transitions into an 85°–90° series of narrow steep ledges. Here, large flakes are used, where "live" rocks lie in places. In the upper part, the crack becomes less steep and resembles a likeness of an oblique ledge. R7–R8. From here, movement is right and up, towards the vertex of the counterfort. Initially, along the wall, 4–6 m. Then, via a not clearly defined, somewhat overhanging inner corner (artificial holds!!) — exit onto wide inclined ledges with a large number of "live" rocks. Here, difficult climbing ends. A semi-reclining bivouac is possible. From the base of the counterfort to this point, one should walk in galoshes. R8–R9. Across partly snow-covered and icy ledges, left, bypassing the vertex of the counterfort at 30°–35°, to the base of a chimney, 55–60 m. R9–R10. Up the steep wide chimney onto a ledge under a small 70°–75° wall (15 m, beware of "live" rocks). From the ledge, left and up, 5 m, via a steep but simple wall — exit into a narrow pass of the counterfort. To the right of the pass, on the vertex of the counterfort, there is a large, slightly inclined ledge where the entire group can be accommodated. From the base of the counterfort to this place is 320–340 m. Average steepness is 75°. R10–R11. From the pass, 20 m via snow-covered rock-slabs, and further via a snow-ice slope with a steepness of 46°–50° and a length of 100–120 m — exit onto the saddle between East and West peaks of Ural. R11–R12. From the saddle, left, towards the East peak under the tower (cornices). Initially up and right via an inner corner-crack, then via scree ledges, bypassing the peak on the right, and exit onto the peak itself from the side of Maly Ural.

Descent from the peak onto the saddle, then via Maly Ural on the 3B category difficulty route.

Photo #3 "...across the ice slope to the base of the counterfort, towards two inner corners..."

Photo #4 "...Here, a semi-hanging belay station is organized."