Ascent Passport

1. Region, gorge, section number according to KMGV-2001 — Western Caucasus, Belaya River gorge, section 2, subsection 2.1. Krasnodar and Stavropol regions up to Marukh pass.
2. Name of the peak, its height, route name — Mt. Oshen (2804 m) via the northeastern counterfort and northern slope.
3. Route character — combined.
4. Assumed 1Bz category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Route height difference — 426 m. Route length — 900 m. Length of sections: V category of difficulty — 0 m, VI category of difficulty — 0 m. Average steepness: main part of the route — 30°.

The main summit of Psysh mountain (3509 m) is located in the Main Caucasian Range, in the upper reaches of the Psysh river between the passes:

• to the west — Naur,
• to the east — Chamagvara and glaciers:
• Northern Psysh,
• Southwest Psysh. In addition to the main summit, there is also the Eastern summit of Psysh, to which the Busha glacier is adjacent from the north, and the Skeu glacier from the south. The North-Psyshsky and Busha glaciers are separated by an ice isthmus, to the north of which the Tokmak peak rises in a beautiful pyramid (see orographic diagram, photo I). There are no classified routes to any of the peaks in the upper reaches of the Psysh gorge. Only in the upper reaches of the Amanauz river — a left tributary of the Psysh river — were four routes to the peaks climbed and classified in 1978:
• Akademika Kalesnik (2A and 3B)
• 60 let VLKSM (2B and 3B)

PASSPORT

1. Class: combined
2. Western Caucasus
3. Peak Сочи (Sochi) by couloir and D.gr.
4. Proposed 2A category, first ascent
5. Height difference: 483 m, length: 680 m average steepness of the route: 45°
6. Pitons hammered: 0, used protection elements: 3
7. Team's moving hours: 9 hours and 1 day
8. Leader: Ivanchenko Vladimir Alexandrovich, 1st sports category

Ascent Passport

1. Climbing type: rock climbing
2. Ascent area: Western Caucasus, Krasnodar Krai up to Marukh pass
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Fisht, 2867 m, via the northern slope
4. Estimated difficulty category: 1B
5. Route characteristics: a) elevation gain — 1367 m; b) average steepness — 35°; c) length of sections: I — 2400 m, II — 500 m, III — none, IV — none, V — none, VI — none
6. Pitons driven:

Ascent Log

1. Climbing category—
2. Climbing region— Krasnodar Krai, Kardyvach Lake.
3. Climbing route — Tsynдышхо Northern via the north-eastern ridge
4. Ascent characteristics: elevation gain — 1,252 m average slope of ascent — 40° length of difficult sections —
5. Pitons driven:
   • rock —

The unnamed peak "3160 m" (absolute height according to the state topographic map M 1:25 000) is located in the middle part of a heavily dissected rocky massif, towering above the Karadjazh tract in the Northwest end of the Sofiyskiy ridge on its segment from the Karadzhash pass to the peak "Dimitrov-100". To the Northwest of it is:

• the peak named after Bulgaro-Soviet friendship (3226 m) To the Southeast is the Unnamed peak (conditionally "3100"), the first route to which has not yet been laid (photo I). The peak "3160", as an object of first ascent, was chosen during reconnaissance group trips in November and December 1981, as well as January 1982 and was approved by the coaching council of the joint Soviet-Bulgarian expedition "Arkhyz-82". The most acceptable route for the first ascent seemed to be (in its initial part) along the steep snowy slope of the Northeast exposure to the saddle between the peaks named after Bulgaro-Soviet friendship and "3160". The relative avalanche safety of this path was assessed during the last reconnaissance (within the framework of "Arkhyz-82") on April 30, 1982 by a snow and avalanche specialist of the VGI, candidate of geographical sciences A. Runich. The nearest classified peak - "3200", 1B cat. difficulty - is located to the Southwest of the Stolicny pass (see the overview orographic scheme). The approach to the start of the route can be made in two ways:
• from the "Syrzavod" clearing up the r. Kashka-Eshek
• from the "Sofia" shelter up the r. Gammash-Chat

Report

On the ascent to the summit of Sofia via the northwest slope and west ridge, category 2A complexity, by the team of SAC "Maximum", August 3, 2023.

I. Ascent Passport

№№	1. General Information
1.1	Full name, sports rank of the leader	Svitovoy Kirill Viktorovich, 2nd sports rank
1.2	Full name, sports rank of participants	Kozoderov Vasily Viktorovich, 2nd sports rank, Shkurenko Yulia Viktorovna, 3rd sports rank, Medalieva Zaira Aslanovna, 3rd sports rank, Chernov Stanislav Evgenievich, 3rd sports rank
1.3	Full name of the coach	Grebenyuk Alexander Viktorovich

Report

ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT NADEZHDA VIA THE NORTHERN SLOPE ROUTE, CATEGORY 2A COMPLEXITY, BY THE TEAM OF RSOO "FAM" MOSCOW, JULY 26, 2023 2024

I. Climbing Report Details

№	1. General Information
1.1	Leader's Full Name, Sports Rank	Murashova Olga Dmitrievna, 3rd sports rank
1.2	Participants' Full Names, Sports Ranks	Pruyak Roman Valerievich, 1st sports rank
1.3	Coach's Full Name	-
1.4	Organization	RSFO "FAM" Moscow

Fig. 5

2. Ascent to the summit of Severny Aksaut (3540 m) from the northeast - category 2B (see Fig. 5)

From Domai through the Jalovchat pass and descent to the "barany lby" (ram's foreheads) above the Jalovchat glacier - bivouac. From Domai campsite 7-8 hours. From the bivouac descent to the Jalovchat glacier and further, crossing it in the direction of the Severny Aksaut summit, to the rocky outcrop. To the left of the rocky outcrop upwards and along the glacier to the eastern spur of Severny Aksaut. Ascent along the destroyed rocks of the spur to the right - upwards 80-90 m, then exit to the right onto the glacier (the glacier is cut, crevasses, insurance!) and along the glacier to the right - upwards - exit to the rocks. Then:

• through the bergschrund (insurance!) ascent along the destroyed rocks (insurance through ledges, местами крючьевая!);
• further along the snow - exit to the Severny Aksaut pass. From the bivouac on "barany lby" 4-5 hours. Further see the description of the ascent to the summit of Severny Aksaut from the northwest.

Recommendations for climbers

Fig. 18

1. Ascent to the summit of Zadnaya Belalakaya (3740 m) — category 2A difficulty (fig. 18, A)

From Dombay plain across the bridge over the Alibek river and along the trail to the stream, descending from the large Belalakaya couloir. Cross the stream to the snowfield and ascend 300–350 m up. Then left into the Sofrujinsky couloir (rockfall hazard!) and up along it to a large overhanging rock. Further left-up along the steep section of the couloir to the trail and along it to the Medvezhья (Bear) clearing. From the Medvezhья clearing, first through alpine meadows (trail), then through snow and 300–350 m along the eastern slopes of Belalakaya to the Sofrujinsky bivouac. From Dombay plain 5–6 hours. From the bivouac (in rope teams!) along the Sofrujinsky glacier to the north-eastern ridge of Zadnaya Belalakaya. Exit to the ridge from the right in the lower part (bergschrund, protection!) and further to the right — up to the ridge saddle. From the saddle directly along the destroyed and loose rocks of the ridge to a ledge and along it to a couloir. Up the couloir to two rock outcrops left of the ridge inflection and exit to the ridge. Along the right side of the ridge up to the second outcrop of the crest. Behind it — to a wide couloir, then up to the ridge inflection and along the right side of the crest — exit to the summit.

• From the bivouac: 3–4 hours
• The entire route is rockfall hazardous!