86. Karaugom West via the South slope and the East ridge (combined route by M. Anufrikov, 3A category of difficulty, fig. 20, 21). The path from the CSP of the Tsey region or from the village of Dzanaga (group of 4-8 people) to the initial bivouac on the platforms of the West ridge of the Bivouacnaya peak is described in route 83. From the bivouac, cross the Karaugom plateau and approach (closed crevices) under the southern slope of the wide snow saddle in the middle of the Karaugom massif. From the plateau, reach the bergschrund along the snowy slope. Having overcome it along a snow bridge, ascend 400-500 m along the steep ice-snow slope along the left side of the long rocky spur under the center of the saddle (avalanches and rockfall are possible - piton belay) to the saddle of the massif (cornice). Here, turn left and along the steep 120-150-meter ice-snow slope (cornice - piton belay) of the East ridge, approach under the summit tower. Then, along the 200-250-meter frozen rocks of medium difficulty and the 60-80-meter snowy East ridge, ascend to the summit West Karaugom. From the initial bivouac, it takes 5-7 hours. Descent is done by the ascent route.

23. KARAUGOM (W-INDENTATIONS) 4A. K. Traverse

From the camping site of the Tsey district along the trail to the Tsey Glacier, across the glacier to Khitsan, then through the Khitsan pass to the North Cirque, through Tsey-Karaugomsky to the Karaugom plateau. 10–12 hours. Similar bivouac - the site of the Western ridge of the Dyuach peak. Cross the Karaugom plateau to the Northwest and along the southern slope of the Southeast buttress of the V. Karau peak, passing the bergschrund, along the steep 350-meter snowy slope to the saddle of the SE buttress above the large I gendarme. On the saddle, turn left and ascend along the sharp snow-ice slope. Further along simple, местами средней трудности, snow-covered sections of the Southeast buttress approach the large gendarme. Climb to the right along the steep ice-rock slope or straight up, then along the snowy ridge - ascent to the shoulder, then along the damaged sections - ascent to the summit. The path takes 7–8 hours. The further path goes down. By sports climbing or rappel 30 m to the ridge, along the ridge, bypassing the gendarmes on the left along the steep ice-rock slope under the gendarme, which is overcome straight up along the rocks of medium difficulty. I and II gendarmes are bypassed on the left along the steep ice-rock slope to the saddle. Along the steep ice-snow slope (120–150 m) approach the Omshno peak. Then along the iced 200–250 m rocks of medium difficulty and along the ridge rise to the West Karaugom peak. Descent along the simple ridge to the west - 120 m. Further into the couloir and along (downhill) side. Rappel 12–15 m. Further along the left side - 150–200 m (rocks of medium difficulty) along the ice-rock couloir down. Along the steep ice-rock ridge down traverse to the saddle. Descent from the saddle along the ice-rock slope - 400–500 m, crossing the moraine crevice, to the Karaugom plateau. Duration of the route - 2 days.

Krasnoarmeets

A low rock tower of Krasnoarmeets peak (4200 m) is located in the Tsey range — the South ridge of the CDSA peak. Southwest of Krasnoarmeets stands a small sharp pyramid of Krasnoflotets peak. From the Karaugom plateau, Krasnoarmeets descends with:

• short unclimbed rock ribs, turning into a rugged ice-and-snow slope in the lower part.

114. Krasnoarmeets (4200 m) via Southwest ridge, category 2B (B. Simagin, M. Anufrikov, A. Gozhev, A. Makedonsky, N. Petrovich, T. Rozhdestvensky, K. Strekalov, August 23, 1946, during the traverse Bubis — Songuti). The path from the Tsey district KSP or from the village of Dzinaga (group 4–20 people) to the initial bivouac on the platforms of the Western ridge of Bivouachnaya peak is described in

66. Krasnoarmeets peak (combined route, category 4A) From the CSP of Tsey region through Khitsan pass to the North circus of Tsey glacier. Cross the circus in the direction of Dubl peak. Go around the CSA peak massif from the left. Overnight on a snowy plateau below Krasnoarmeets peak. From the overnight stay across the closed glacier through the bergschrund to the rocks of the Southeast ridge of Krasnoarmeets peak. Along the talus shelf on the rocks to the first control cairn (start of the route). From the cairn upwards through a steep rocky forehead (4–5 m) in the direction up to the right (sporty ascent). At this point the rocks have a negative angle of inclination. Further along the shelf:

• to the right,
• then left and up to a wide black chimney. Up the chimney (50–60 m, 60°, rockfall hazard!) to a site in the middle of the chimney. From the site further up the chimney with an exit from it to the right onto the ridge. On the ridge — a site, second control cairn. From the first to the second control cairn — 2–3 hours. Further:
• crossing a snow-talus slope,
• along rocks of medium difficulty (protection via a ledge) to a wide ridge.

Ascent Route Description to the summit of Lagau, 4064 m

From the West

Approximately 2B cat. diff. From the lower Zaramag camps, the path lies in the direction of the glacier descending from Mt. Zaramaga. Cross two streams and then follow the trail towards the left (in the direction of travel) green moraine. In the middle, traverse the talus to the right green moraine. Up along it, under the reddish rocks. Leaving the rocks on the left, ascend to the upper camps. The journey from the lower to the upper camps takes about 2 hours. From the upper camps, head up and to the right, towards the black moraine talus, approximately 15 minutes. The order of movement from the upper camps:

• Turn right and ascend this talus for about 5 minutes.
• Then head towards the depression in the next black talus descending from the slopes of Mt. Adai (on the left in the direction of travel).
• Enter a wide snow-ice cirque. From the upper camps — 30–40 minutes.

Fig. 38 185. Mamison (4319 m) via Southeast Ridge (combined route by G. Maslov, category III difficulty, Fig. 38). The path from the Tsey district base camp (group of 4-8 people) to the Tsey-Mamison Pass with the initial bivouac under it on the upper plateau of the Southern branch of the Tsey Glacier is described in routes 83-17-91-82. At the pass, turn right and approach the 150-meter wall below the lower (first) ascent of the Southeast Ridge of Mamison Peak via the firn slope. Traverse the wall from the left along a narrow shelf (belay) to a couloir. Then ascend a steep snowy and icy scree couloir to a platform. From the platform, climb rocks of above-average difficulty (pitched belay) on a 20-25-meter wall with few holds to reach the Southeast Ridge above the first ascent. Continue along the wide, long, straightforward snowy Southeast Ridge, overcoming gendarmes head-on via severely broken rocks of average difficulty (belay). Then follow a narrow snowy-icy ridge to the Ronketti Pass. Approach the summit ascent of Mamison via the wide snowy saddle of the pass. From the Tsey-Mamison Pass, it takes 5-6 hours. From the saddle, ascend a steep, wide snowy slope to enter a narrow icy-snowy couloir or exit to the right onto simple rocks alternating with snowy sections on the counterforce. Follow the subsequent route:

• a steep, narrow snowy couloir,

27.12.83

Passport

Ascent to Mt. Mamisong-hokh via icefalls of the North Face

1. Ascent category — snow and ice climb.
2. Ascent area — Caucasus, Tsey.
3. Ascent route — “Mamisong-hokh, 4358 m, via icefalls of the North Face.”
4. Route description:
   • route length — 920 m
   • height difference — 858 m
   • average steepness — 55°

PASSPORT

I. Climbing category — technical. 2. Climbing area — Eastern Caucasus, Main Caucasian Range. 3. Mamisong (4358 m) via the center of the north wall triangle. 4. Second ascent — 5B cat. tech. combined. 5. Height difference — 820 m. Including triangle — 340 m. Length — 1200 m. Length of sections with 5–6 cat. tech. — 600 m. Of which 6 cat. — 130 m.

Peak Nikolaev

Peak Nikolaev (3815 m) is named in memory of the mountaineer Nikolai Nikolaev. It is located in the eastern spur of the Mamison vertex, dividing the upper reaches of the Tsey Glacier into:

• Southern branch;
• Northern branch. Above the spur, the peak rises with a small rocky pyramid, from which a panorama of the peaks of almost the entire Tsey region opens.

193. Peak Nikolaev via the southern slope, 1B category of difficulty (B. Kizel, B. Aleynik, July 24, 1934). The path from the KSP Tsey region to the initial bivouac in the hut on the Southern branch of the Tsey Glacier is described in route 83. From the hut, descend to the glacier and along its right side approach the second wide snowy couloir descending onto the Southern branch of the Tsey Glacier from the right. Here, turn right and ascend via the wide, gently sloping snowy couloir to the left side of the rocky cape protruding in the center of the couloir under the southern slopes of Peak Nikolaev. Bypass the rocky wall of the cape from the left along a steep snowy slope (protection). From it, exit to the right onto a wide balcony above the rocky cape (ice axe platforms) with a snowy slope — under the southern walls of the peak (leave ice axes on the platforms).

196. Peak Nikolayeva (3815 m) via the Eastern ridge from the North (combined route, category 2B difficulty, fig. 38). The path from the CSP of the Tsey region (a group of 4–12 people) to the Northern branch of the Tsey glacier with the initial bivouac in the hut of the Southern branch of the Tsey glacier is described in route 83. From the Northern branch of the Tsey glacier (closed crevasses):

• Ascend 300–350 m along a wide snow-ice couloir or along the rocks on its left side (there is a risk of rockfall in the couloir) to the saddle on the ridge connecting Peak Nikolayeva on the right and Khitsan on the left.
• From the hut — 3–5 hours. The further ascent route is described in route 194. Descent along the southern slope (see route 193). Naumov A. F. Karaugom, Digoriya, Tsey (Central Caucasus), M., "Fizkultura i sport", 1976.