23. KARAUGOM (W-INDENTATIONS) 4A. K. Traverse
From the camping site of the Tsey district along the trail to the Tsey Glacier, across the glacier to Khitsan, then through the Khitsan pass to the North Cirque, through Tsey-Karaugomsky to the Karaugom plateau. 10–12 hours.
Similar bivouac - the site of the Western ridge of the Dyuach peak. Cross the Karaugom plateau to the Northwest and along the southern slope of the Southeast buttress of the V. Karau peak, passing the bergschrund, along the steep 350-meter snowy slope to the saddle of the SE buttress above the large I gendarme. On the saddle, turn left and ascend along the sharp snow-ice slope.
Further along simple, местами средней трудности, snow-covered sections of the Southeast buttress approach the large gendarme. Climb to the right along the steep ice-rock slope or straight up, then along the snowy ridge - ascent to the shoulder, then along the damaged sections - ascent to the summit. The path takes 7–8 hours.
The further path goes down. By sports climbing or rappel 30 m to the ridge, along the ridge, bypassing the gendarmes on the left along the steep ice-rock slope under the gendarme, which is overcome straight up along the rocks of medium difficulty.
I and II gendarmes are bypassed on the left along the steep ice-rock slope to the saddle. Along the steep ice-snow slope (120–150 m) approach the Omshno peak. Then along the iced 200–250 m rocks of medium difficulty and along the ridge rise to the West Karaugom peak.
Descent along the simple ridge to the west - 120 m. Further into the couloir and along (downhill) side. Rappel 12–15 m. Further along the left side - 150–200 m (rocks of medium difficulty) along the ice-rock couloir down. Along the steep ice-rock ridge down traverse to the saddle. Descent from the saddle along the ice-rock slope - 400–500 m, crossing the moraine crevice, to the Karaugom plateau.
Duration of the route - 2 days.