1. Krasnoarmeets peak (combined route, category 4A) From the CSP of Tsey region through Khitsan pass to the North circus of Tsey glacier. Cross the circus in the direction of Dubl peak. Go around the CSA peak massif from the left. Overnight on a snowy plateau below Krasnoarmeets peak.

From the overnight stay across the closed glacier through the bergschrund to the rocks of the Southeast ridge of Krasnoarmeets peak. Along the talus shelf on the rocks to the first control cairn (start of the route). From the cairn upwards through a steep rocky forehead (4–5 m) in the direction up to the right (sporty ascent). At this point the rocks have a negative angle of inclination. Further along the shelf:

  • to the right,
  • then left and up to a wide black chimney.

Up the chimney (50–60 m, 60°, rockfall hazard!) to a site in the middle of the chimney. From the site further up the chimney with an exit from it to the right onto the ridge. On the ridge — a site, second control cairn. From the first to the second control cairn — 2–3 hours.

Further:

  • crossing a snow-talus slope,
  • along rocks of medium difficulty (protection via a ledge) to a wide ridge.

The steepness of the ridge gradually increases. Along the ridge — to difficult rocks. The rocks are bypassed on the right along the rocks embedded in the ice (step cutting, ice and rock pitches) under a steep wall. Bypass on the right, piton protection.

  • Cross a tributary of the main couloir
  • along steep black rocks — to a buttress
  • along the right slope of the buttress — to the ridge

Third control cairn. From the second to the third cairn — 3 hours.

Along a steep, heavily destroyed ridge — to a "gendarme". The "gendarme" is bypassed along the edge. The bypass is difficult (piton protection, step cutting, 40 m). After the bypass — onto the ridge.

Further along smooth slabs, holding onto the sharp edge of the ridge:

  • two vertical 3-meter walls,
  • a separately lying stone,
  • over the stone — onto a smooth slab,
  • along the slab — to an ice shelf turning into an ice couloir.

Under the shelf hang the rocks of the "gendarme" (step cutting, pitons, rocky). Having exited from under the rocks (step cutting) — into the second steep ice couloir, along it — onto a destroyed counter-buttress.

Along the ridge of the counter-buttress — to a chimney and up it (12–15 m, rock piton) — to the summit of the "gendarme".

A sharp turn to the left along the way — onto a smooth inclined slab bypassing the summit of the "gendarme".

From the "gendarme" descend to a saddle leading to the summit. From the saddle (piton protection) — to the wall of Krasnoarmeets peak.

Descent from the saddle (3–4 m) towards Karaugom plateau, bypassing the summit on the left along a shelf — to an 8–10 meter wall.

Up the wall (piton protection) — onto a wide shelf. On the shelf — overnight stay.

From the overnight stay along rocks of medium difficulty (35–40 m) — to the summit.

Descent along the route of 2–6 category of difficulty to Karaugom plateau and further through Tsey-Karaugomsky.

Sources

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