Fig. 38
- Mamison (4319 m) via Southeast Ridge (combined route by G. Maslov, category III difficulty, Fig. 38).
The path from the Tsey district base camp (group of 4-8 people) to the Tsey-Mamison Pass with the initial bivouac under it on the upper plateau of the Southern branch of the Tsey Glacier is described in routes 83-17-91-82.
At the pass, turn right and approach the 150-meter wall below the lower (first) ascent of the Southeast Ridge of Mamison Peak via the firn slope. Traverse the wall from the left along a narrow shelf (belay) to a couloir. Then ascend a steep snowy and icy scree couloir to a platform. From the platform, climb rocks of above-average difficulty (pitched belay) on a 20-25-meter wall with few holds to reach the Southeast Ridge above the first ascent.
Continue along the wide, long, straightforward snowy Southeast Ridge, overcoming gendarmes head-on via severely broken rocks of average difficulty (belay). Then follow a narrow snowy-icy ridge to the Ronketti Pass. Approach the summit ascent of Mamison via the wide snowy saddle of the pass.
From the Tsey-Mamison Pass, it takes 5-6 hours.
From the saddle, ascend a steep, wide snowy slope to enter a narrow icy-snowy couloir or exit to the right onto simple rocks alternating with snowy sections on the counterforce.
Follow the subsequent route:
- a steep, narrow snowy couloir,
- simple rocks on the right counterforce,
- 60-meter tile-like rocks of average difficulty on the slope
to ascend to the snowy summit ridge and along it 70 meters up (cornice - belay) to the summit of Mamison. From the Ronketti Pass, it takes 1.5-2 hours.
Descend to the Ronketti Pass via the ascent route. From the pass, turn left and descend a steep snowy 250-300-meter slope with a crevasse in the upper part and a bergschrund in the lower part (belay) to the initial bivouac on the plateau of the Southern branch of the Tsey Glacier.
Route duration: 3 days.
Naumov A.F. Karaugom, Digoria, Tsey (Central Caucasus), Moscow, "Fizkultura i Sport", 1976.