Fig. 22

1. Ascent to the summit of Zub Sofrudju — category 2B (fig. 22)

From Dombayskaya polyana across the bridge over the Alibek river and along the trail to the stream descending from the large Belalakay sky cuolar. Across the stream onto the snowfield and 300 m up. Then left into the Sofrudju cuolar (rockfall hazard!) and up to a large overhanging rock. Then straight up a steep section to the trail and along it to Medvezhya polyana. From Medvezhya polyana:

• initially along alpine meadows (trail),
• then across snow,
• and after 300–350 m, left of the eastern slopes of Belalakaya — exit to the Sofrudju bivouac. From Dombayskaya polyana — 5–6 hours. From the bivouac (in teams!), descend to the Sofrudju glacier, traverse between the upper and lower icefalls, and exit below the massif of the summit. Ascend a steep (50–55°) snowy slope (partially rocky), exit onto the ridge and along it — to a snowy saddle. Then along the snowy ridge to a wall.

3. Traverse of Sulakhat massif (3600 m) from the south, in winter — category 2A (Fig. 8)

From Dombay plain past the Alibek alpine camp to the hut on the Alibek glacier moraine. Then up the moraine and, before reaching the upper summer bivouac, exit right onto the Dvuyazychnýy glacier and along the right side of the steep part of the tongue — to the upper plateau. Across the plateau up in the direction of the pass and under the rocky ridge of Kvadratny peak — bivouac (cave). From Dombay plain 7–8 hours. From the bivouac through the depression between Kvadratny peak and Bezýmyannaya I peak to the saddle between Bezýmyannaya I and Bezýmyannaya II peaks and through Bezýmyannaya II peak exit onto the Yuzhno-Sulakhatskoye plateau. Ascent to the South Sulakhat peak via the snow-covered spur of the ridge. From the South peak along the ledge to the couloir and up it to the ridge. (Protection is with pitons! Most difficult section of the traverse!) Past the cairn left of the ridge along the ledge to the last gendarme before the North peak. Bypass the gendarme on the left along the ledge and along the ridge — exit onto the North peak. The path from the bivouac takes 5–6 hours. From the peak, descend back to the saddle between the peak and the gendarme, from here descend along the left side of the couloir onto the Yuzhno-Sulakhatskoye plateau (danger of avalanches in winter!) and return to the bivouac under Kvadratny peak. Descent takes 3–4 hours. From the bivouac to Dombay plain — 3–4 hours. The route is avalanche-prone!

Recommendations for climbers

1. Number of participants in the group — no more than 8 people.
2. Initial bivouac — under Kvadratny peak.

Brief Description of the Approach

From the "Alibek" mountaineering camp in the direction of the "73" pass, follow the trail through the stream under the waterfall and then along the stream from the slopes of v. Semenov-Bashi up the trail to a steep grassy slope. Having passed it, exit to the left ridge of the upper moraine. Follow the trail on the moraine for about 500 m and then traverse left along a steep grassy-scree slope to the ridge of large and medium scree in a small hanging valley, going from the saddle between v. Semenov-Bashi and v. Maly Semenov-Bashi. Possible bivouac site, water available.

Brief Description of the Route

From the bivouac, follow the medium and large scree (at the beginning and middle of the season, along a snowy slope) 500 m in the direction of the saddle between v. Semenov-Bashi and v. Maly Semenov-Bashi and, 150 m before it, turn right onto a ledge. Along the 0.5–2 m wide ledge (1–2) 400 m to a snow-scree couloir, leading left of the "Lopata" gendarme. Up the couloir 100 m and, bypassing the gendarme on the left, 50 m along the ridge to a 35-meter wall with a vaguely defined internal angle, steepness 50–60°. Up the wall straight with piton belay (possible rockfall) to a sharp ridge. Then traverse 5 m to the right into an internal angle of slab-like structure, steepness 40°, and up it 35 m (pitons), exit to the ridge. Further along a gentle ridge 60 m — exit under the black wall. From here, traverse along a ledge to the right 40 m to a wide scree southern slope of the summit and along it 300 m to the right-up to a notch. Then 100–120 m along the ridge (route 1B cat. dif.) to the summit. Descent via route 1B cat. dif. Control tour is installed on the ledge when bypassing the "Lopata" gendarme. Here is also a convenient place for a forced bivouac.

Table of Main Characteristics of the Ascent Route

To the Classification Commission of the USSR Alpine Federation

REPORT

on the first ascent to the Sofruju peak via the southern wall on July 27-29, 1972

I. Group Composition:

Gubanov Yu. D. — leader, Candidate for Master of Sports, senior instructor of the Dombay region Climbing School, unattached, "Burevestnik" Sports Society, Dombay settlement. Prima Yu. V. — participant, Candidate for Master of Sports, radio instructor of the Dombay region Climbing School, unattached, "Burevestnik" Sports Society, Dombay settlement. Khamtsov A. P. — participant, 1st class, junior instructor, unattached, "Burevestnik" Sports Society, Dombay settlement, Alibek alpine camp worker. Support group led by Candidate for Master of Sports Vorobyev D. G., parallel route on the Main Amanauz peak via the southern wall, category 5B difficulty.

II. Alpine and Geographical Overview of the Sofruju Massif.

Report

On the ascent of the combined team of KCHR to the summit of Pik Ine 3455 m

via the southeastern counterfort. Presumably 4B category of complexity. First ascent. Semyonov M. A. — team leader Ankudinov A. I. — Candidate for Master of Sports Date of report compilation: November 2019

2. Caucasus

2.2 From Marukh Pass to Nakhar Pass

Participants of the ascent

1. Ascent to Semenov-bashi peak (3608 m) from the southwest — 1b category of difficulty (Fig. 10)

From the “Alibek” alpine camp along the trail through the stream under the waterfall to the bivouac site. From Dombay plain 2.5–3 hours. From the bivouac:

• along the stream up the trail to a steep grassy slope;
• after passing the slope, exit to the left ridge of the upper moraine;
• further along the talus — to a wide couloir divided by a ridge into two parts. Up the ridge and through heavily destroyed rocks — exit under the ridge of the forepeak (in the couloir, it is possible to ascend to the left of the ridge, but the path is more rockfall-prone!). 50–60 m below the ridge — traverse to the right and through a gentle wall (15 m) along the shelves — exit to the forepeak. From the forepeak — descent into the gap (insurance, piton!) and along the destroyed rocks of the ridge (50–60 m) — exit to the summit. From the bivouac to the summit: 5–6 hours. The entire path is rockfall-prone! Descent along the ascent route to Dombay — 6–7 hours.

Recommendations for Climbers

PASSPORT

Ascent to v. Hokel via the Eastern ridge

1. Ascent class — rock climbing
2. Ascent area — Western Caucasus, Main Caucasian Range
3. Peak, route — v. Hokel, 3645 m, ascent via the Eastern ridge from the saddle between v. Hokel and the Nameless peak on the left.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 4B
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 700 m length of sections: II cat. diff. — 400 m

General view from the south. Arrows indicate ascent routes. Semenov-Bashi, 3602 m

Via the central bastion of the southern wall. Cat. 3A

From al "Alibek" up along the trail leading to the training slopes of Semenov-Bashi peak. From the rocks up along the grassy slopes in the direction of the southern wall of Semenov-Bashi peak to the large snow circus under the wall. From "Alibek" - 3 hours. Along the snowy slope with a steepness of 25-30° up to the central bastion of the Southern wall (the start of the route is to the right of the red arrow drawn on a light 8-meter rock). Along the rocks first up, then to the right, crossing the couloir, exit under the wall. Along the wall up to a large shelf. Control cairn. From the shelf to the right-up along the system of inner corners, shelves, and ridges - exit to a loose mulda and along it to the "roof". Along the easy rocks of the roof - exit to the Eastern ridge and along it to the left to the summit. From the start of the route 6-8 hours. Descent via route 1B (see below). Recommendations:

• Group size: 6 people
• Initial bivouac: under the Southern wall

Gvandra Tsentralnaya from the saddle from Glavnaya, combined, 1B

Route Description

The ascent to the upper plateau of Gvandra is described in the route "Gvandra Vostochnaya from the saddle from Gvandra Tsentralnaya peak". On the plateau, go left - to the saddle between Glavnaya (left) and Tsentralnaya (right) peaks of Gvandra. Ascend to the saddle via a snowy slope closer to Glavnaya peak. In the lower part, the slope is cut by a bergschrund - pass via a bridge or a gap with ice blocks (belay!). The ascent from the saddle to Glavnaya peak coincides with the description of the route "Gvandra Tsentralnaya - Glavnaya" for this section of the path. From the point of reaching the plateau to the summit - 3 hours. Descent from the summit to the bivouac takes at least 3.5 hours. If you go along the ridge to the right from the saddle, it will be the beginning of the route to Tsentralnaya peak. Behind the snowy saddle, a rocky ridge begins. Bypass its ruined rocks on the right. Behind the rocks, traverse the snowy slope and, to the right of the main ridge, via a couloir, reach below a 10-meter wall. If there are no cornices on the left on this section of the ridge, move along the ridge without entering the couloir. Having overcome the 10-meter wall (50°), reach Tsentralnaya peak via simple ruined rocks.

Report on the ascent via the Central Bastion of the northern wall of Peak Burovsky (via the center of the bastion)

List of participants in the assault group

TABLE of the main characteristics of the ascent route to Peak Burovsky via the Central Bastion of the northern wall.

• Height difference of the route: 1060 m
  • Including the most challenging sections: 410 m
• Steepness of the route: 80–90°
  • Including the most challenging sections: 80–90° | Date | Section № | Steepness of the section | Height of the section, in m | Terrain characteristics | Technical difficulties | Type of belay | Weather conditions | Departure time | Time of stopping at bivouac | Travel hours | Rock pitons | Ice screws | Bolts | Dural and wooden wedges | Bivouac conditions | Weight of daily ration, in grams |