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5. ASCENT TO KORYAKSKAYA SOPKA FROM THE SIDE OF ELIZOVSKAYA SUHOY RECHKI RIVER ALONG THE SOUTHEAST RIDGE — cat. dif. 2A (Figure 5) From Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky to overnight stay in the Elizovskaya Suhoy Rechki river valley to the volcanological station (see description of the ascent to Avachinsky volcano — cat. dif. 1B). From the volcanological station, with orientation to the large gendarme "Verblud" (gendarme with two peaks), exit to the southeast ridge departing from the pre-peak of Koryakskaya Sopka. Landmark — to the left, along the path, from the ridge a wide steep couloir, dangerous for passage due to rockfall and avalanches. Along the southeast ridge exit to the pre-summit group of rocks. The ridge is heavily destroyed, does not present technical difficulty. Time to cross the ridge from the volcanological station to the pre-peak is 7–8 hours. The ridge ends with a series of gendarmes, which are bypassed on the right along the path (alternate belay). From the pre-summit ridge, traverse the large gendarme to the right along the path onto a snow-ice slope with a steepness of 45–50° and then to the left to a group of rocks, exit to the right side of the upper, narrowest part of the wide snow-ice couloir. Traverse of the couloir:

• steepness 45–50°

Description

Ascent to Koryaksky volcano via SSW ridge, category 2B General description of the summit and its location To the northwest of Avacha, separated from it by a saddle-shaped valley with Avachinsky Pass, rises the highest volcano of this group - Koryaksky. Its regular cone, long undisturbed by eruptions, is cut by deep barrancos. In some places on the surface of the cone, lava flows have solidified, sometimes reaching the foot, sometimes stopping halfway. The modern height of the volcano, equal to 3456 m, exceeds all other peaks in the southern part of Kamchatka. The summit of the volcano is slightly truncated to the west, and a modern crater of irregular shape, measuring 90 by 45 m, is located in its lowered part, from which a long lava flow descends to the southern wide barranco. In the northern part of the summit are the remains of an ancient crater, expanded by the action of a glacier to 500 m. The highest point of the volcano is located to the east, and a little lower and further east, on the edge of a cliff, a high lava obelisk rises. The summit and northern slopes near the summit are covered with ice. The depression of the ancient crater is filled with a powerful glacier, descending to the foot with two tongues. The length of the glacial tongues reaches 3-4 km, the width is up to 150 m. The thickness of the ice is measured in tens of meters. West of these tongues lie three more glaciers and many snowfields, filling all the barrancos of this part of the slope. To the south, the slopes of the volcano and the adjacent foothills are freed from snow cover early in the summer and become completely waterless by early August.

Route Description

to the Main Peak of Ganal'skiye Ostryaki from the northwest, category 3B difficulty

I. Approach and Ascent (see area map).

Drive along the Milkovo road to the bridge over the Vakhtang Mal'kinskiy river between km 145 and 146. Get off the road after the bridge. There's a quarry on the right. Cross it perpendicular to the road and exit onto a forest road. Follow the forest road 8-10 km along the river valley to a clearing with a tent frame (on the right side of the road). On the left side of the road, opposite the frame, there's a passage through the alder bushes. The trail begins there. Follow the trail along the left slope of the valley. Do not turn left uphill. The trail leads to a terrace - a hollow. Follow it to a dry riverbed that crosses the trail at the forest and shrub boundary. Cross to the other side of the riverbed and ascend along it for 50-70 m. The trail then:

• turns right,
• follows logging roads through alder bushes to a stream flowing from Mt. Yurchik. Cross the stream, walk along it downstream for 100-150 m, and turn left onto a terrace above the stream flowing from the Ostriaki cirque.

Kamchatka Federation of Alpinism and Rock Climbing

REPORT

ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT YUZhnaya (SOUTHERN), GANALSKIE VOSTRYAKI RANGE, KAMCHATKA PENINSULA VIA THE ROUTE:

"FROM THE SOUTH, ALONG THE WESTERN COUNTERFORT, THROUGH 'SLONIK'" CAT. 2B The ascent was made by the team of the Kamchatka Federation of Alpinism and Rock Climbing on June 24, 2016.

ASCENT DOCUMENTATION

Ovalnaya Zimina volcano, 3rd ridge --- — Passage of the western route. P — Control tour. Δ — Base camp.

Description

Ascent to the summit of Ovalnaya Zimina via western ridges, category 2B.

1. Location description of the volcano

Ovalnaya Zimina is located in the central part of the Klyuchevskaya group of volcanoes. This is an ancient extinct volcano with gentle, uniform slopes from the north and east. Its western and southern slopes are steep and heavily destroyed. The summit of Ovalnaya Zimina is snow-ice. A 4-meter pole is installed at the highest point of the summit, clearly visible from all sides. It is impossible to blow it away by wind. A hermetically sealed metal box is nailed to this pole.

ASCENT DESCRIPTION FOR TOLBACHIK OSTRY VIA NORTH-WEST RIDGE, CATEGORY 3B

The volcanoes Tolbachik Ostry and Tolbachik Plosky have glaciated peaks with glaciers descending to 1000–1100 m above sea level. Routes to the summit of Tolbachik Ostry go via snow and ice slopes, and only from the south and south-east, rocky ridges lead to the summit, which fall short by 150–200 m. On all other sides, the ridges terminate at heights of 1600–2100 m. The summit of Tolbachik Ostry is not clearly defined, and only in summer months can the highest point of the snowy ridge, resembling a pyramid, be identified. The following glaciers are identified on the Ostry and Plosky Tolbachik massifs:

• Number: 11
• Total area: 26.1 km² The approach to the western and north-eastern routes follows the same path and diverges at the depression of the north-west ridge. Those heading to the western ridge must descend into the valley.

Approach to the Climbing Site

From the shepherds' hut, built on a wide clearing at a height of 800 m, follow the riverbed to the Neizvestny stream, and then along the stream until the end of the bushes. After that, a stream flowing into it from the right will be encountered. Turn into this stream. About 600 meters later, it cuts into the right ridge along the ascent route and forms a narrow gorge, which should be followed. Continue along the gorge for 1.5–2 hours. It leads to a plateau. Cross the plateau in a southerly direction until it is divided by a stream flowing south. Follow the stream and it will lead to the left slope, transitioning into a destroyed rocky ridge running in a north-westerly direction. Time required to approach the ridge: 4–5 hours from the shepherds' hut. Elevation at this point: 1500 m.

Route Description by Sections

14

Route Description

Ascent to Pik Glavlengradstroy

First Ascent

Report №259 dated 27/1-67 SA Leningrad 1965 LOS DSO "Burevestnik" Peak 5,730, "Pik Glavlengradstroy," is located in the massif of Pik Evgenii Korzhenevskoi along its north-northeast ridge. This ridge directly branches off from the 6,787-meter summit and divides the upper part of the Kara-Sel valley into two sections, which flow into the Muk-Su river valley.

Peak Kosmonavtov

The 5800 m summit (4th Western peak of the Fedchenko Glacier) is located in the Marx-Engels Ridge, situated between the Bivachny Glacier and the Fedchenko Glacier opposite the confluence of the Kalinin Glacier and the Bivachny Glacier. From the Bivachny Glacier side:

• The northern slopes of the summit are covered with steep scree in the lower part and are cut by steep couloirs and buttresses in the upper part.
• The western slopes face a vast inner cirque filled with a glacier, whose tongue hangs into a couloir and is visible from the Bivachny Glacier.
• The ice is steep and of an overhanging nature. Between the 5800 m summit and the next peak to the west, there is a snowy saddle in the ridge. The snow layer is thin and lies on ice. The slopes facing the Fedchenko Glacier are very steep and rocky. The western ridge of the summit consists of three rises descending to the saddle. The ridge rocks are heavily destroyed, composed of fibrous rocks. Pitons hold poorly. On the first day, the group, leaving the 3800 m camp, descended along the Bivachny Glacier via a caravan trail for 1 hour to the slopes of the summit and began ascending steep scree towards the inner cirque.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — high-altitude technical
2. Ascent area — Pamir, Vanchsky Ridge.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. 5910 m via the southern wall.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B.
5. Route characteristics: total altitude difference — 810 m. wall altitude difference — 610 m. length of sections with 5th cat. diff. — 260 m.

Fig. 57

2. Traverse of Perednyaya and Zadnyaya Chotcha (3640 m) with ascent via the north-eastern edge to Perednyaya Chotcha — category 4B difficulty (see Fig. 57)

From the Northern refuge, cross the Hokel river via a log, then follow the trail and scree to the crest of the north-eastern edge of Perednyaya Chotcha. The crest is jagged, with numerous sharp gendarmes that are overcome head-on; the descent from the last two gendarmes to the col is via rappelling (protection on the crest via protrusions and pitons!). The col offers a bivouac site. The journey from the Northern refuge to the col takes 6–7 hours. From the col, ascend 90–100 m up a steep snowfield (65°) to smooth rocks (protection on the snowfield via ice axe, on rock outcrops via pitons!). From the snowfield, traverse left along ledges for 65–70 m to a steep gully, then ascend 60 m up the right side of the gully via moderately difficult rocks (protection!). The gully is prone to rockfall! Continue ascending 110–120 m up steep slab-like rocks (protection via pitons!) to a sloping snow ledge, then traverse 100 m left and upwards to the start of the second pitch of the edge (protection!). From the start of the second pitch, ascend 50 m right and upwards via an inclined crevice, then 40 m via a moderately pronounced chimney to a steep wall (75–80°). Ascend 130 m up the difficult rocks of the steep wall to a horizontal ledge (protection via pitons!). This is a suitable bivouac site. The journey from the col takes 4–5 hours.