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5. ASCENT TO KORYAKSKAYA SOPKA FROM THE SIDE OF ELIZOVSKAYA SUHOY RECHKI RIVER ALONG THE SOUTHEAST RIDGE — cat. dif. 2A (Figure 5)

From Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky to overnight stay in the Elizovskaya Suhoy Rechki river valley to the volcanological station (see description of the ascent to Avachinsky volcano — cat. dif. 1B).

From the volcanological station, with orientation to the large gendarme "Verblud" (gendarme with two peaks), exit to the southeast ridge departing from the pre-peak of Koryakskaya Sopka. Landmark — to the left, along the path, from the ridge a wide steep couloir, dangerous for passage due to rockfall and avalanches. Along the southeast ridge exit to the pre-summit group of rocks. The ridge is heavily destroyed, does not present technical difficulty. Time to cross the ridge from the volcanological station to the pre-peak is 7–8 hours.

The ridge ends with a series of gendarmes, which are bypassed on the right along the path (alternate belay).

From the pre-summit ridge, traverse the large gendarme to the right along the path onto a snow-ice slope with a steepness of 45–50° and then to the left to a group of rocks, exit to the right side of the upper, narrowest part of the wide snow-ice couloir.

Traverse of the couloir:

• steepness 45–50°
• ice — 2 ropes

Exit to destroyed steep rocks 50–60° and then along them:

• 4–5 ropes
• piton belay

Ascent under a large overhanging gendarme (section is rockfall-prone!).

Having reached the gendarme, cross the snow-ice couloir and ascend along its left wall for 2–3 ropes to the base of the summit dome.

The summit dome is snow-ice, steepness 45–50° — 3 ropes. Move in the direction of the pre-summit gendarme. Having bypassed the pre-summit gendarme on the left, exit to the summit.

Ascent time:

• from the end of the pre-summit ridge to the summit — 4–5 hours;
• from the volcanological station to the summit — 12–13 hours. Descent along the ascent route — 9–10 hours.

Recommendations for climbers:

1. Number of participants — 4–6 people.

2. Initial bivouac — area of the volcanological station. Since the route is long, it is recommended to organize an intermediate overnight stay on the pre-summit ridge in its middle part, where there are platforms suitable for setting up a tent.

3. Departure time (when ascending from the volcanological station without an intermediate overnight stay) — not later than 2 am.

4. Special equipment for a group of 4 people: a) main rope 2 × 30 m; b) rock pitons — 8 pcs.; c) ice pitons — 3–4 pcs.; d) carabiners — 8 pcs.; e) rock hammer — 2 pcs.; f) cordelette — 5 m (for loops); g) crampons — 4 pairs.