Ascent Log

1. Ascent category — technical
2. Ascent area — NW Tian Shan range, Talas Alatau range
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — South Manas 4512 m via the right buttress of the north face of the eastern ridge
4. Expected category of difficulty — 4A
5. Route characteristics: height difference 650 m Length of sections 5–6 km/tr. — none, average slope 45°–50°
6. Pitons hammered in: for rock protection 19, ice screws 6, for creating anchor belay rock 1

Alpinist group from "Dugoba" camp. Material on the first ascent of the route

Technical category, leader - ZINOVIEV G.N., team commander - VERBITSKY G.G. Peak Mekhnat is located in the Pamir-Alay region between the Ak-Tash and Surmitash-Davan glaciers. Ascent plan to Mekhnat on July 25, 1976: July 24, 18:00 - Ascent to Upper Ak-Tash overnight stay July 25, 5:00 - Departure under the north-eastern ridge 6:00 - Approach to the first control cairn 14:00 - Ascent to the summit 16:00 - Return to the base camp

Route description

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay, Alay Ridge No. 5.5.I KTMGV
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Peak 5205 via the southeast ridge
4. Proposed difficulty category: 4A category of complexity (“Dostuk”)
5. Route description: height difference 600 m, average slope 50°. Length of sections: I — 100 m, II — 150 m, IV — 550 m.
6. Pitons driven: for belay: rock — 18, ice — —, bolted — —; for creating belay stations: — —.
7. Number of climbing hours: 12 hours.
8. Number of nights and their description: 1 night at a col ~4600 m.
9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader and participants and their sports qualification:

Ascent Log

Ascents

Ascent category — technically challenging Ascent area — southern spurs of the Alay Ridge, Lenin Peak area Ascent route — center of the northeastern wall of Peak 50 Years of Uzbekistan, elevation 4650 m Ascent characteristics:

• Wall height difference — 1012 m
• Average steepness — 72°
• Length of main sections:
  • 4th difficulty category — 48 m

Треугольный (4100) via W rib - 4A cat. 350, 45–50°, 30 m, 1, 20 pitches, 6 hours. Yu. Emelyanenko, T. Medvedeva 28/VII-83. Average steepness of sections R2–R10: 50–55°. Average steepness of sections R10–R20: 45°.

Table of main characteristics of the ascent route to peak 4100 m (conditionally named peak Треугольный) via Western rib 4A cat.

• Summit elevation: 4100 m
• Conditional name: peak Треугольный
• Difficulty category: 4A

The ascent class is technical. The ascent area is the Gissar Ridge, Igizak area. 3700 m. No. 10. Peak, its height, route - p. "Bivachnaya" 3320 m via the Southwest wall. Proposed difficulty category - 2B. Route characteristics:

• height difference - 300 m;
• average steepness - 50°. Driven pitons: rock - 16. Number of walking hours: - 7.

¹

Route Description

From the "green meadow" bivouac, go upstream along the Igizak stream, approach the right

PIK GEOLOGOV 3B DIFFICULTY LEVEL

FROM THE SOUTHEAST Peak Geologov is located in the Maykura area at the junction of three ridges. It is at the end of the Maykura glacier above the mine and is clearly visible from there. The height is about 4200 m. Approach: You need to drive by car to the end of the road. Then, after walking for 15-20 minutes across the moraine, we reach the snow-ice slopes of the glacier and approach the beginning of the steep ascent to the ridge leading from the summit. We camp on the glacier. The time taken for the approach is 1.5-2 hours. From the campsite, we ascend to the ridge via any snowy gap in the rocks and move to the right to reach the summit. From the last gendarme on the ridge, the start of the route is clearly visible, beginning with an ascent to the western spur of the ridge. Section R1: We approach the start of a clearly visible steep ledge traversing the ridge from right to left via a snowy slope (possibly icy in autumn). The length of this section is 150 m, with a steepness of 20°. Tie in before reaching the rocks and bergschrund. Section R2: Ascend to the ledge, which does not reach the snow, and move to the right onto the rocks from its beginning. We circumvent a patch of snow (4-5 m) above via the ledge with a steepness of 55-60° and a width of 50-60 cm, and reach the first belay point (60 m) on a good platform. The protection is via pitons (1-2) and rock features. The rocks are of moderate difficulty. Section R3: Move directly along the ridge, veering to the right, to reach a connecting ridge under the start of a clearly visible negative wall on the ridge. The movement is alternating, with protection via rock features, and the length is 60 m.

Fig. 13 Fig. 14

3. Ascent to the Herzog peak via the North-Eastern ridge — for the difficulty category (Fig. 13 and 14)

From Dombayskaya Polyana to Turiy Lake — bivouac. From Dombayskaya Polyana 3.5–4 hours. From the bivouac up the moraine, then along the Alibek glacier (the glacier is exposed, belay!) to the rocky gate between the rocks of the northern edge of Herzog and the rocks under the eastern slope of Jalovchat. Up the steep snow-ice slope: