№56. Ukrainian SSR Alpine Championship

High-altitude Technical Class

We dedicate the ascent

to our friends Kovtun V.G. and Bodnik V.N.

Akademiya Nauk Ridge

Peak Blyukhera via the South Ridge — first ascent (orient. 5B cat. diff.) — Team of the Ukrainian Republican Council of the "Burevestnik" Sports Society

№	Surname	Initials	Rank	Role
1	Tsakanyan	O.S.	CMS	team leader
2	Bychek	A.M.	MS	participant

Introduction

In the center of the Pamir Mountains, in an area that remained a "blank spot" for a long time, between two seven-thousander peaks — Peak Kommunizma (7495 m) and Peak Evgeniya Korzhenevskoi (7105 m) — stands a nameless peak marked on the map as "5691". The summit ridge stretches from east to west and divides the Moskvina Glacier into two branches; to the north and south, the ridge drops off with ice falls and sheer walls. The highest point of the peak is located in the eastern part of the ridge. This area was not mapped until the early 1930s, and even after that, it was rarely visited — the approaches to the upper reaches of the Moskvina Glacier were too difficult. N.V. Krylenko with two companions was the first to circumnavigate the peak in 1933. His note lay in a large cairn at the lower point of the East Ridge for 33 years! Later, despite the inaccessibility, the area around Peak E. Korzhenevskoi was visited several times by various groups and even entire expeditions, but no attempt was made to climb the nameless peak "5691", which is an excellent panoramic point in the area. In July-August 1966, an expedition from the Central Sports and Tourism Council of the "Burevestnik" sports organization worked in the upper reaches of the Moskvina Glacier, with the goal of making several ascents of Peak E. Korzhenevskoi via new routes. During the high-altitude acclimatization, one of the expedition groups made the first ascent of the nameless peak "5691" on August 1, 1966, dedicating the climb to the 20th anniversary of the Moscow Institute of Physics and Technology.

Description of the Route via the East Ridge

14

Route Description

Ascent to Pik Glavlengradstroy

First Ascent

Report №259 dated 27/1-67 SA Leningrad 1965 LOS DSO "Burevestnik" Peak 5,730, "Pik Glavlengradstroy," is located in the massif of Pik Evgenii Korzhenevskoi along its north-northeast ridge. This ridge directly branches off from the 6,787-meter summit and divides the upper part of the Kara-Sel valley into two sections, which flow into the Muk-Su river valley.

Description

First ascent of Peak 5731 from the Bivachny Glacier by participants of the Pamir expedition of the Ukrainian Council of the Spartak Volunteer Sports Society August 4–7, 1967 Leader — V. Rudenya, coach — I. Polevoy. Participants:

• S. Slenzak
• V. Golub
• I. Batmanova
• V. Yefimov
• D. Kamayev
• A. Karatsuba

Report

On the first ascent of Peak 6128 m (p. Dnipropetrovsk) on the Central Pamir by the team from Dnipropetrovsk on Silver 4B, led by V. Shabokhin

1. Geographical description, sporting characteristics of Peak 6128 m. Description of climbing conditions.

Peak 6128 m is located in the northern part of the Academy of Sciences range, slightly south of its division into two ranges:

• the eastern branch towards the peaks Muzdiilga, Sandal, Shilbe;
• the northern branch towards the Muksu River between the Aiu-Dzhilga and Barubesh glaciers. The northern branch of the range after Peak 6128 m drops sharply. The height of the peaks in the ridge is no more than 5200 m. The eastern slope of Peak 6128 m is ice-snowy, steeply breaking off towards the Barubesh and M. Tanymas glaciers. The western slope of Peak 6128 m consists of a large number of rocky counterforts and snow-ice couloirs, feeding the Aiu-Dzhilga River (see photo). The rocks composing the massif of Peak 6128 m are very diverse. The alternation of granites, marble belts, sandstones, and shales creates a particularly technical complexity for the passage of routes to this peak. The presence of sandstones and shales in the upper part of the peak, covered with ice and snow, creates additional difficulties in organizing belays and self-belays.

Ascent to Pik Izvestii from Walter Glacier via the north spur

The first ascent was made by the "Pamir-77" team — led by Cherny N.D. Pik Izvestii is located in the central part of the Pamir Mountains, in the Academy of Sciences Range, between Pik 6700 and Voroshilov Peak. The height of Pik Izvestii is 6840 m. To the north lies the Walter Glacier, and to the south lies the Stalin Glacier. Until now, no routes had been made from Walter Glacier directly to the summit of Pik Izvestii. The route taken represents a snow-ice spur, starting with a straightforward ridge section from Walter Glacier. The spur leads to the firn fields adjacent to the summit of Pik Izvestii. The ascent was made from a base camp by a lake at the confluence of the Moskvina and Walter Glaciers by a team of trainers from "Pamir-77" in the following composition:

1. Cherny N.D., CMS — leader
2. Borodkin Yu.V., MS
3. Bobrov V.I., CMS
4. Smirnov R.N., MS The team had good prior acclimatization: ascent to Pik Petrovskogo, ascent up the same spur of Pik Izvestii to 6100 m (from where the team was withdrawn for rescue work) and participation in rescue work on Pik E. Korzhenevskoi with ascent to 5600 m.

Day 1

From the base camp by the lake at the confluence of the Moskvina and Walter Glaciers, the team departed on August 3, 1977, at 6:00. Moving along the right (orographic) moraine of Walter Glacier, the team reached the upper cirque of this glacier in 3 hours, crossed the glacier, and approached the base of the spur.

4.1.19

Report

OF THE TEAM OF THE UNION OF SPORTS SOCIETIES AND ORGANIZATIONS OF UZBEKISTAN ON THE ASCENT TO PIK IZVESTIYA 6840 m, MADE IN THE SUMMER SPORTS SEASON OF 1964. Tashkent – 1964

Geographical and Sporting Characteristics of the Pik Izvestiya Area

Pik Izvestiya (6840 m) is located in the heart of the Pamir Mountains, near the highest peak in the USSR — Pik Kommunizma — in the Petra I ridge. To the south of the peak lies a spur of the Petra I ridge, approximately 5 km long, featuring three six-thousander peaks:

• Ordzhonikidze 6280 m

ASCENT PERFORMED IN THE USSR CHAMPIONSHIP IN ALPINISM ON AUGUST 15, 1977 Ascent Class — High-altitude Ascent Area — Central Pamir Ascent Route — Peak Izvestiy via the southeast wall Ascent Characteristics

• Altitude difference — 2050 m
• Route length — 2680 m
• Average steepness — 72° (wall)
• Length of complex sections — 1300 m (altitude difference — 1150 m; average steepness — 85°) Pitons driven:

24

REPORT

on the ascent to Peak Kalinina (6565 m) (first ascent) by the special group "Nurek" of CS SDSO "Burevestnik"

leader:	Kuzmin K.K.	— 3rd sports category USSR
members:	Bozhukov V.M.	— Master of Sports USSR
	Vanin V.V.	— Master of Sports USSR

Ascent Report on Mt. Chegem 6A Category of Complexity via Forostyan's Route on the NE Wall and NE Ridge, accomplished by the team of "Vershina" mountain club, Volgograd region. Ascent Passport

1. Region — Central Caucasus, Adyr ridge of the Main Caucasian Range, upper reaches of the western branch of Chegem gorge.
2. Mt. Chegem 4461 m. NE wall, NE ridge, Forostyan's route.
3. 6A category of complexity.
4. Combined route.
5. Height difference — 1290 m. Distance — 1936 m. Length of sections with V category — 308 m. Length of sections with VI category — 201 m.