Shaan-Kaya — 12. "Synthesis of Consciousness"

Massif: Shaan-Kaya (985 m) Complexity: 5B, VI, A1 Author: A. Geniush, Kudryavtsev Year of route creation: 2008 Number of pitches: 7 Length: 300 m Time to complete: 4–6 hours Total length of the route is 213 m, suggested complexity category is 5B. R0–R1 (42 m, A2, f 6b) — The route starts between the "Arsenal" and "Maximen" routes, among the ivy, a crack for anchors and medium-sized stoppers begins. Move up the crack towards a small pine tree, then tackle a slight overhang in its central part, where a crack leads under the small pine. After the tree, ascend 10 m on anchors and stoppers to reach the belay station, which is set on two anchors. R1–R2 (38 m, A2, f 6B) — From the station, shift 1 m left and upwards to a vertical crack, then move up through it towards an internal corner. The corner is well-passed using medium and large cams and stoppers. The corner leads to a narrow horizontal ledge that goes left. Traverse 6 m along the ledge; there are 2 anchors on the traverse. From the anchors, lower slightly to the station, which is set on 2 anchors. The traverse itself is not complicated and is relatively safe. R2–R3 (35 m, A3, f-7a) — The next pitch starts with a beautiful flake forming a small internal corner with the main wall. Ascend 8–10 m through this corner to a sloping ledge. From the sloping ledge, move through an overhang with a small internal corner to a large internal corner. On the overhang, there are 2 intermediate bolts:

• To the 1st anchor, ascend via the small internal corner on small, partially driven anchors.
• To reach the 2nd anchor, use large skyhooks (3 pcs.).

Author: Alexey Shelkhakov, Simferopol Scheduled cleaning of the "Samurai" route 6A, 6B, A3 On January 13, the team of Popov — Shelkhakov carried out a scheduled cleaning of their "Samurai" route (6B — A3) on the Shaan-Kaya massif, removing the pitons and poorly fixed temporary bolts left by other climbers. We also identified the points where our route intersects with the climbing route "Atlant-M" 8b, 250 m, which was completed in early autumn 2004 by the team led by A. Vedenmeer. Since we were unable to find a diagram of this route online, we had to determine the situation on site. The previously published photographs of Atlant-M did not indicate the neighboring routes, and accordingly, did not specify the points of intersection with the existing mountaineering routes on the massif. The inspection showed that Atlant-M intersects Samurai at an acute angle between R3–R4, which significantly reduces its difficulty. In its upper part, this route intersects Samurai again near the ledges, which is generally insignificant. On the final section, before reaching the plateau, it runs very close to it. In light of these circumstances, we decided to remove the bolts of the Atlant-M route that are located within the corridor of the Samurai route, but only those that reduce its difficulty — specifically, the section between R3–R4. We removed two bolts:

• One of them was driven 40 cm away from ours and can be replaced by it.
• Further, there is a crack suitable for pitons, where one can be fully and reliably secured, thus replacing the second removed bolt. This is the minimum of what was possible; Atlant-M remains passable. The diagrams of the routes provided by us may contain inaccuracies, but it's still better than nothing.

Tourist Encyclopedia

"Samurai", 6A, F6c, A3, 290 m (Shaan-Kaya)

Interpretation — "Samurai", 6A, F6c, A3, 290 m (Shaan-Kaya)

Tourist Encyclopedia

"Samurai", 6A, F6c, A3, 290 m (Shaan-Kaya)

At the beginning of the route, a drill has beaten out on the rock:

• 2001
• an arrow pointing up and slightly to the right. R0–R1: Three meters of climbing T1 — a large V-shaped hook in a live flake to the right and up. Two to three meters of a small ledge. There's a crack in it.

Parabola (second option), 4A (Kush-Kaya)

The approach to the route starts along the path to the "Classic," but you need to veer right immediately. Through the clearings where camps are usually set up, head right and up to the wall, from which ledges and wide cracks extend left and right. Stick to the well-trodden path. Follow the path, then left and up 30-40 m through simple rocks to reach a platform. Tie in here. R0-R1. Follow a logical crack upwards 40-50 m to the first tree. R1-R2. From here, head right through bushes to a ledge with a tree under the route. If the route is occupied, it's not worth continuing. Hazards:

• Rocks hit the entire lower part.
• There's an option to bypass to the right. It's less prone to rockfall, but in places, you have to climb through thickets. R2-R3-R4. From the platform, two yellow-colored cornices are clearly visible to the left at the top of the massif. From here, approach the rightmost upper tree on the platform. From the platform, climb up through slabs and corners to a tree where the crack ends. 10 m higher, there's a small face with old pitons at the top. R4-R5. From here, you need to move left into another crack. Up a vertical, steep crack - a corner:

Abkhazia, SE ridge — cat. dif. Samoylenko V.V. Western Caucasus 2.1.

Passport

1. Rock class
2. Western Caucasus, Atsyrtuka ridge
3. Abkhazia peak, via south-eastern ridge
4. Supposed 3B cat. dif., first ascent
5. Elevation difference: 500 m, length — 1180 m. Length of sections 4A–4B cat. dif. — 70 m. Average slope steepness of the main section of the route 55°
6. Pitons used — 2 pcs., chocks — 8 pcs.

1012

ASCENT REPORT

1. Climbing type: rock climbing.
2. Climbing area: Arkhyz, Stavropol Krai, from Kardyvai mountain area to Marukh pass.
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: VELINGRAD peak, 3110 m, via the central northwest spur.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 3B category.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 310 m, average steepness — 70°,

Ascent

1. CLASS OF ASCENT: rock
2. ASCENT AREA: Arkhyz, Stavropol Krai, from the Kardyvach mountain area to Marukh pass.
3. PEAK NAME AND ASCENT ROUTE: peak Velintral, ZIU M., via the right northwest counterfort.
4. ASSUMED CATEGORY OF DIFFICULTY: 3B — 3B, 35 m.

• 320 m average steepness
• 550 route length: cat. diff. I 23456 m. no 203208040 no

Passport

1. Section number according to KMGV — 2010 — 2.1. Western Caucasus, mountain region — Arkhyz, Orlenok gully, mountain massif (ridge) Kara-Jash
2. Names of peaks: 2900 m (Kara-Jash North-East) — Kara-Jash (3171) — 3170 — 3201 (NRB) — 3226 (Taulan, «Dimitrov-100»)
3. Heights of peaks: 2900–3171–3170–3201–3226
4. Route: traverse of peaks: 2900 m (Kara-Jash North-East) — Kara-Jash (3171) — 3170 — 3201 (NRB) — 3226 (Taulan, «Dimitrov-100») from north-east to south

Report

On the first ascent

on v. Sobor-Skala Gl. (1st tower) from the South

Climbing passport

1. Climbing area, section number according to the 2008 classification table
2. Name of the peak, its height, route name.
3. Proposed:
4. Nature of the route:
5. Height difference of the route: Route length:

Fig. 71. a – initial part of Route 27 (R0–R3); 1, 2 and 3 – Left, Central and Right ("Hockey player") gendarmes; b – view of the South walls and West ridge of Dimitrov-100 peak (sections R3–R10), partially R11 and R12 – from the West ridge of Bulgaro-Soviet Friendship peak; c – section R11–R12 of Route 27. Photo by V. Bobylyov. View from the North Fig. 70. Sketch of Route 27. Scale 1:3000 Route 27 (Fig. 69, 70). The path to the assault camp "At the lake" under the southern slopes of the 60th anniversary of KChAO peak is described earlier (Route 22). From the base camp "Ice farm" to the specified assault camp – 4–5 hours. The approach path to the beginning of the described route partially coincides with a similar path to Route 26 (3A). From the base of the ascent on Route 26, you need to turn 90° left, towards the saddle between Bulgaro-Soviet Friendship peak and the South tower of Dimitrov-100 peak. There are three gendarmes on the saddle. The direction should be kept towards the base of the junction of the saddle wall and the South tower wall. A couloir descends here from under the right gendarme "Hockey player". The start of the route. Movement on 30–40° snow. From the "At the lake" overnight stay – 2 hours 30 minutes. The beginning of Route 27 coincides with Route 24 (up to R3). Section R0–R1 (Fig. 71a). Along the left part of the couloir (smoothed gneiss granite) 35 m to a convenient reception point (chip, shelter). At the same time, the overhang encountered after 25 m is bypassed on the left with an exit above it. α = 70°. 3 stoppers.