Tourist Encyclopedia

"Samurai", 6A, F6c, A3, 290 m (Shaan-Kaya)

Interpretation — "Samurai", 6A, F6c, A3, 290 m (Shaan-Kaya)

Tourist Encyclopedia

"Samurai", 6A, F6c, A3, 290 m (Shaan-Kaya)

At the beginning of the route, a drill has beaten out on the rock:

• 2001
• an arrow pointing up and slightly to the right.

R0–R1: Three meters of climbing T1 — a large V-shaped hook in a live flake to the right and up. Two to three meters of a small ledge. There's a crack in it.

T2 — Up T3 — a bolt. Further straight up along the corner T4 — a Friend T5 — a large anchor, next to it a Friend for backup, half a meter to the left T6 — a Friend. A wide crack. T7 — a Friend on a flake works as a Skyhook. In the summer, there's a possibility to make a subtle move under it.

T8 — a blue Camalot. It's scary to load, make a 2-meter subtle move. T9 — a red Camalot. A ledge on an outstretched hand straight up. Later, going left, there's a good crack for red and blue Camalots.

T10 — a wedged stone in the crack. A Friend on it works as a Skyhook.

T11 — a yellow Camalot, a red one will also fit. T12 — a Stopper. Approximately #10. T13 — a Friend in a "shell" works as a good Skyhook. T14 — a Friend and it's very desirable to have yellow and blue Camalots for insurance. T15 — a lilac Camalot #4 fits tightly, reliable. T16 — a yellow Camalot. T17 — a Friend. Make a 1-meter subtle move. T18 — a Bolt. HURRAY!!! T19 — a large anchor. T20 — a Friend. T21 — a yellow Camalot. Periodically, you hammer in a Friend for insurance. T22 — a red Camalot. The crack starts to hang, it's rickety and scary.

T23 — a green Camalot. You have to remove Camalots from under yourself. T24 — a red Camalot. T25 — a yellow Camalot. The crack, like a flake, stops hanging. T26 — a Friend works as a Skyhook. To the left, below, within 1.5 meters, a Bolt is visible.

T27 — a bolt. T28 — a Friend. T29 — a sharpened Laki Skyhook. T30 — a Friend to the right on the top of a flake. A ledge and a station. In warm weather, a subtle move is possible. The station is on two Bolts.

R1–R2:

• T1 — a Friend on a ledge
• T2 — a 6 mm BD triple Skyhook in a "shell". Reach a Bolt with a Friend.
• T3 — a Bolt
• T4 — a sharpened Laki Skyhook in a special little hole, like a prepared "shell"

T5 — an anchor on a ledge. ATTENTION: you don't need to go up; you need to go more to the left than up.

T6 — a Friend behind a flake, T7 — a Friend in a "shell", T8 — a great Friend behind a flake, T9 — a Bolt.

From here, you can see three bolts ahead.

T10 — a loop behind a flake up and to the left, 1 meter. From the flake to the left, there's a good ledge 2–3 meters; you follow the ledge and approach a Bolt.

T11 — a Bolt.

T12 — a sharpened Laki Skyhook on relief.

T13 — a Krasnoyarsk "hole-y" one on relief.

T14 — a Bolt.

T15 — a large anchor on a ledge.

T16 — a Krasnoyarsk "hole-y" Skyhook up.

T17 — a large BD.

T18 — a Bolt.

T19 — a sharpened Laki Skyhook on a knocked-up little ledge.

T20 — an 8 mm BD triple Skyhook.

T21 — a Bolt.

T22 — a sharpened Laki Skyhook on relief.

T23 — a large BD Skyhook on relief.

T24 — a Bolt.

T25 — a Friend on a ledge.

T26 — a Station. Approximate length of ropes is 35 meters.

R2–R3:

T1 — a BD triple Skyhook "hole".

T2 — a large BD Skyhook. Chiseling.

T3 — a Bolt.

T4 — a sharpened Laki Skyhook.

T5 — a BD triple Skyhook "hole".

T6 — a sharpened Laki Skyhook.

T7 — a Removable item.

T8 — a broken Removable item. A bolt is visible.

T9 — a small Kassin Skyhook.

T10 — a 10 mm BD triple Skyhook "hole".

T11 — a small BD Skyhook on relief.

T12 — a Bolt.

T13 — an 8 mm BD triple Skyhook.

T14 — a BD triple Skyhook on relief.

T15 — a small Kassin Skyhook. It fits very well in the little hole.

T16 — a Removable item. A bad "hole". Chipped.

T17 — a Bolt.

T18 — a large BD Skyhook.

T19 — a BD triple Skyhook "hole".

T20 — a small Kassin Skyhook.

T21 — a BD triple Skyhook "hole".

T22 — a Bolt.

T23 — a Removable item.

T24 — a sharpened Laki Skyhook.

T25 — a small Kassin Skyhook.

T26 — a sharpened Laki Skyhook.

T27 — a Bolt.

T28 — a sharpened Laki Skyhook on relief.

T29 — a BD triple Skyhook "hole".

T30 — a small Kassin Skyhook.

T31 — a Bolt.

T32 — a Removable item with a nut.

T34 — a sharpened Laki Skyhook on relief.

T35 — a Friend or a sharpened Laki Skyhook.

T36 — a sharpened Laki Skyhook.

T37 — an anchor.

T38 — a sharpened Laki Skyhook.

T39 — a station.

R3–R4:

T1 — a BD triple Skyhook "hole".

• To the left
• Up

T2 — a Bolt.

• To the left
• Up.

T3 — a Removable item.

• To the left
• Up

T4 — a titanium channel Bolt.

• To the left.

T5 — an 8 mm BD triple Skyhook.

• Up

T6 — a Bolt.

T7 — a large relief BD on a ledge.

T8 — a 6 mm BD triple Skyhook. A chipped "hole".

T9 — a Bolt

T11 — a Friend on a ledge

T11 — a Friend on a ledge

T12 — a Friend on a ledge

T13 — a Bolt — 0.5 meters to the left

T14 — an Atlantis Bolt to the left and up

T15 — a 10 mm BD triple Skyhook

T16 — an Atlantis Bolt 1.5 meters to the right. T17 — an 8 mm BD triple Skyhook. It's to the left, 10 cm from the 10 mm BD triple Skyhook.

T18 — a large BD Skyhook in a "hole". T19 — a Bolt. Further, there's a ledge under a relief:

• a chipped Skyhook
• a 10 mm BD triple Skyhook, also chipped. But between them, I've hammered a new "hole" — a good 8 mm BD triple Skyhook.

T20 — an 8 mm BD triple Skyhook, T21 — a Removable item, T22 — a Friend in a crack, T23 — a medium anchor, T24 — a 10 mm Bolt, T25 — a medium Stopper 7–8, T26 — a Stopper 4–5, T27 — a V-shaped medium Bolt, T28 — a Stopper 4–3, T29 — a local rock hook, T30 — a red Camalot, T31 — a titanium Bolt with a cable, T32 — a Stopper 3, T33 — a large anchor, T34 — a Stopper 9–10, T35 — a Stopper 9–10, T36 — a Friend, T37 — a small "trunk", T38 — a station. Two Bolts + a large V-shaped Bolt + a small blue Camalot.

R4–R5

T1 — a small Kassin Skyhook. To the right and up.

T2 — a sharpened Laki Skyhook. To the right and up.

T3 — a large BD Skyhook. To the right and up.

T4 — a medium BD anchor. To the right.

T5 — a Bolt. Straight up.

T6 — a sharpened Laki Skyhook.

T7 — a Removable item.

T8 — a local Bolt hammered into a live flake.

T9 — a Friend in a flake. All flakes are shaky.

• T10 — a Friend in a flake.

T11 — a Bolt.

T12 — a Removable item.

T13 — a small anchor.

T14 — an anchor.

T15 — a Friend.

T16 — a Bolt.

T17 — a small Kassin Skyhook in a "hole".

T18 — a small BD Skyhook on relief.

T19 — a Friend.

T20 — an Anchor. 5 meters of climbing.

T21 — a Station.

R5–R6:

T1 — a large BD Skyhook on relief.

T2 — a Bolt.

T3 — a small BD Skyhook.

T4 — an anchor.

T5 — a medium BD Skyhook.

T6 — a Friend. There's a "hole" for a Removable item.

T7 — a Bolt.

T8 — a Removable item.

T9 — a sharpened Laki Skyhook on a little ledge.

T10 — a sharpened Laki Skyhook in a pit.

T11 — a Bolt.

T12 — a Removable item.

T13 — a sharpened Laki Skyhook.

T14 — a small BD Skyhook on relief.

T15 — a sharpened Laki Skyhook.

T16 — a sharpened Laki Skyhook.

T17 — a Bolt.

T18 — an 8 mm BD triple Skyhook.

T19 — a Friend.

T20 — a Friend.

T21 — a Bolt.

T22 — a Removable item.

T23 — a large BD Skyhook on relief. Make a 2-meter subtle move.

T24 — a medium anchor.

T25 — a small V-shaped Bolt. Make a 3-meter subtle move.

T26 — a Bolt.

T27 — a Maruni Bolt.

T29 — a large BD Skyhook.

T30 — a sharpened Laki Skyhook.

T31 — a sharpened Laki Skyhook.

T32 — a Friend.

T33 — a station.

R6–R7:

T1 — a Bolt to the left.

T2 — a sharpened Laki Skyhook to the left and up.

T3 — a Bolt up.

T4 — a Bolt to the left and up.

T5 — a Bolt up.

T6 — a large BD Skyhook.

T7 — a Bolt.

T8 — a small BD Skyhook. Up.

T9 — a Friend up. Make a subtle move under the overhang.

T10 — a rotary Stopper 10. Along the ledge to the right, 8 meters.

T11 — a Station on Stoppers.

R7–R8:

T1 — a gray Camalot.

T2 — a Stopper 9–10. Up. Along the ledge, 5 meters to the right.

T3 — a Bolt up.

T4 — a Bolt up.

T5 — a sharpened Laki Skyhook.

T6 — a Bolt up.

T7 — a Friend. Make a subtle move to the left.

T8 — a Station.

R8–R9:

T1 — a Friend on a ledge.

T2 — a thin rigid hook.

T3 — a Bolt.

T4 — a BD triple Skyhook. Reach with a Friend.

T5 — a Friend.

T6 — a nut smaller than medium.

T7 — a red Camalot. To the left and up.

T8 — a nut 3. To the left and up.

T9 — a Friend. 20 cm up.

T10 — a Bolt. A long reach in the overhang with a Friend.

T11 — a Friend.

T12 — a large anchor.

T13 — a Friend on a live flake, works as a Skyhook. Make a subtle move to the left.

T14 — a Station.

R9–R10:

T1 — a red Camalot.

T2 — a small nut T3 — a lilac Camalot T4 — a red Camalot T5 — a couple more Camalots of some sort.

You climb onto a little ledge-muldochka.

T6 — a Removable item in the overhang, T7 — a Friend, T8 — a local Bolt, T9 — a Station shared with Atlantis. On two powerful bolts. Exit to the summit.