Parabola (second option), 4A (Kush-Kaya)
The approach to the route starts along the path to the "Classic," but you need to veer right immediately. Through the clearings where camps are usually set up, head right and up to the wall, from which ledges and wide cracks extend left and right. Stick to the well-trodden path. Follow the path, then left and up 30-40 m through simple rocks to reach a platform. Tie in here.
R0-R1. Follow a logical crack upwards 40-50 m to the first tree.
R1-R2. From here, head right through bushes to a ledge with a tree under the route. If the route is occupied, it's not worth continuing.
Hazards:
- Rocks hit the entire lower part.
- There's an option to bypass to the right. It's less prone to rockfall, but in places, you have to climb through thickets.
R2-R3-R4. From the platform, two yellow-colored cornices are clearly visible to the left at the top of the massif. From here, approach the rightmost upper tree on the platform. From the platform, climb up through slabs and corners to a tree where the crack ends. 10 m higher, there's a small face with old pitons at the top.
R4-R5. From here, you need to move left into another crack. Up a vertical, steep crack - a corner:
- Climb 50 m up to a ledge under the "balda" (a rocky formation).
- The "balda" is bypassed on the right.
The belay station is above the "balda." Use your own protection; there are few old pitons.
R5-R6. From this station, climb 50 m up to a platform. Set up a station with your own protection.
R6-R7. From the last platform, climb a rope's length up to the yayla. Parabola uiAA
Gear for a pair
- Hammers - 2
- Quickdraws - 10-15
- Nuts - a set of stoppers, medium-sized cams
- Pitons - channel pitons - 2, horizontal - 5
- Rope 50 m - 2
- Jumar - 1
- Slings 60-120 cm - 5-6
- Headlamp
Overall impression
A strict, steep route without pronounced ledges, not well-pitched. Not for warm-up. The total route length is about 7 rope lengths. Three rope lengths from the ledge under the route are the main ones. The route doesn't allow you to relax. Prone to rockfall! The time taken by an average team, assuming no queue, is 4-5 hours.
