Shaan-Kaya — 12. "Synthesis of Consciousness"

Massif: Shaan-Kaya (985 m) Complexity: 5B, VI, A1 Author: A. Geniush, Kudryavtsev Year of route creation: 2008 Number of pitches: 7 Length: 300 m Time to complete: 4–6 hours

Total length of the route is 213 m, suggested complexity category is 5B.

R0–R1 (42 m, A2, f 6b) — The route starts between the "Arsenal" and "Maximen" routes, among the ivy, a crack for anchors and medium-sized stoppers begins. Move up the crack towards a small pine tree, then tackle a slight overhang in its central part, where a crack leads under the small pine. After the tree, ascend 10 m on anchors and stoppers to reach the belay station, which is set on two anchors.

R1–R2 (38 m, A2, f 6B) — From the station, shift 1 m left and upwards to a vertical crack, then move up through it towards an internal corner. The corner is well-passed using medium and large cams and stoppers. The corner leads to a narrow horizontal ledge that goes left. Traverse 6 m along the ledge; there are 2 anchors on the traverse. From the anchors, lower slightly to the station, which is set on 2 anchors. The traverse itself is not complicated and is relatively safe.

R2–R3 (35 m, A3, f-7a) — The next pitch starts with a beautiful flake forming a small internal corner with the main wall. Ascend 8–10 m through this corner to a sloping ledge. From the sloping ledge, move through an overhang with a small internal corner to a large internal corner. On the overhang, there are 2 intermediate bolts:

• To the 1st anchor, ascend via the small internal corner on small, partially driven anchors.
• To reach the 2nd anchor, use large skyhooks (3 pcs.).

After the 2nd anchor, there are 2 more skyhooks, followed by a relief that allows for anchor placement, leading to the start of the large internal corner. In the corner, on a comfortable ledge, there's a belay station set on 2 anchors.

R3–R4 (23 m, A2, f-5c) — From the station, ascend 15 m up the corner to a large sloping shelf on the right. Traverse 6–8 m along the shelf with easy climbing. The belay station is on a horizontal ledge under a wide, overhanging crack and is comfortable. The station is set on 2 anchors.

R4–R5 (35 m, A2, f-6c) — From the station, move left and upwards towards a wide, overhanging crack. Before the crack starts, turn right onto a system of narrow, overhanging cracks. These cracks lead to a sloping shelf that goes left and upwards. Ascend 15 m along this shelf with easy climbing to the next station, which is set on two anchors.

R5–R6 (40 m, A2 8 m, f5–6b, f2–26 m) — The final pitch coincides with the "Maximen" route.