Abkhazia, SE ridge — cat. dif. Samoylenko V.V. Western Caucasus 2.1.
Passport
- Rock class
- Western Caucasus, Atsyrtuka ridge
- Abkhazia peak, via south-eastern ridge
- Supposed 3B cat. dif., first ascent
- Elevation difference: 500 m, length — 1180 m. Length of sections 4A–4B cat. dif. — 70 m. Average slope steepness of the main section of the route 55°
- Pitons used — 2 pcs., chocks — 8 pcs.
- Team's travel hours: 10 hours and days — 1.
- Overnights — 0.
- Team leader: Samoylenko Vladimir Vasil'evich — 1st sports category Participants: Efimov Aleksandr Vladimirovich — CMS, Koval Konstantin Mikhailovich — 2nd sports category, Fleer Leonid Aleksandrovich — 2nd sports category, Tsyban' Olga Leonidovna — 2nd sports category, Chebusheva Elena Leonidovna — 2nd sports category
- Coach: Kozak Leonid Romanovich — Master of Sports.
- Approach to the route: August 2, 1992. Summit: August 2, 1992. Return: August 2, 1992.
- Organization: Dnepropetrovsk regional mountaineering federation. Alpclub "Dnieper"
Brief description of the route
From the base camp on the meadow near the koshevoy river along the trail along the river to the confluence of the stream from under the Abkhazia peak. Then along the stream and snowfield ascent to the circus, and from there, turning left, to the Ritsa pass. From the base camp 1.5 hours.
Descending from the Ritsa pass 20–30 m, cross the scree and ascend along:
- grassy ledges,
- rock walls,
- inclined ledges towards the characteristic tooth on the ridge,
protection via ledges and pitons.
After reaching the ridge, approach the rock wall, starting from the right part and moving left-upwards (chocks). Above the wall on the ridge is a control cairn. Further along the ridge, exit to the saddle between the Abkhazia peak and the large gendarme and to the summit. From the base camp to the summit — 7 hours.
Descent along the western ridge (route 3A cat. dif.). It is possible to descend towards the Ritsa peak. Descent along the western ridge takes about 2.5–3 hours.
Safety assessment of the route
In bad weather, the passage of the lower sections of the route, overgrown with grass, becomes more complicated. There may also be difficulties with the exit point to the ridge. Using large tape loops facilitates the organization of protection in the lower part of the route.