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Climbing report on the first ascent to the summit of General Koryakov via the SE couloir of the SW ridge, rated as 26 category of difficulty.

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On the first ascent to the summit of General Koryakov via the SE couloir of the SW ridge, category 2B, by the team "Невозможно это не навсегда" (It's impossible not to be forever) from March 27 to March 27, 2019. 2019

I. Ascent Passport

1. General Information
1.1Full name, sports rank of the leaderPyotrko Pavel Vladimirovich, 1st sports rank
1.2Full name, sports rank of participantsPyotrko Pavel Vladimirovich, 1st sports rank
Panova Alena Mikhailovna, CMS
Abramov Grigory Alexandrovich, Badge
Kiselnikov Pavel Alexandrovich, Badge
Kozyreva Alena Timofeevna, Badge
Desyatova Darya Nikolaevna, Badge
Mashtakova Natalia Gennadievna, Badge
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Ascent to the summit Gorets Eastern via the eastern ridge, category of complexity 2B, detailed route description and technical documentation.

Ascent Card for Mt. Gorets Vostochny, 2457 m, via the East Ridge, cat. 2B

  1. East Sayan, Tunskinskie Goltsy ridge, Terasa dvukh karov (Vetryany region), section 6.1.2.
  2. Gorets Vostochny peak, 2457 m, via the East Ridge.
  3. Proposed category 2B, first ascent.
  4. Route type: rock.
  5. Height difference 300 m, length 600 m, average slope 30°.
  6. Pitons driven: rock and chocks, 17 pieces.
  7. Team's travel time — 6 hours.
  8. No overnight stays on the route.
  9. Group:
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Description of the ascent route to the summit Gorets Zapadny via the southern ridge, category of difficulty 2A, first ascent in 2011.

Ascent Certificate for v. Gorets Zapadny, 2461 m, via the Southern Ridge, cat. 2A

  1. East Sayan, Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge, Terrace of two cirques (Vetryany region), section 6.1.2.
  2. Peak Gorets Zapadny, 2461 m, via the Southern Ridge.
  3. Proposed category 2A, first ascent.
  4. Route type — rock.
  5. Height difference — 450 m, length — 860 m, average steepness — 30°.
  6. Pitons hammered: rock and chocks — 6 pcs.
  7. Team's travel time — 5 hours.
  8. No overnight stays on the route.
  9. Group:
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Traversing Gorets Zapadny and Gorets Vostochny peaks in the Tunkin Goltsy mountain range, via the western couloir, complexity category.

Ascent Certificate for Goretz Zapadny 2461 m – Goretz Vostochny 2457 m, via the Western Couloir, traverse, category III complexity.

  1. Eastern Sayan, Tunka Goltsy ridge, Serebryanoe valley (Vetryany region), section 6.1.2.
  2. Traverse of peaks Goretz Zapadny 2461 m – Goretz Vostochny 2457 m, via the Western Couloir.
  3. Proposed category III complexity, first ascent.
  4. Route type — rocky terrain.
  5. Height difference — 500 m, distance — 900 m, average slope — 20°.
  6. Pitons hammered: rock and wired — 15 pcs.
  7. Team's walking hours — 7 hours.
  8. No overnight stays on the route.
  9. Team members:
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Report on the first ascent of the category 2A route to Dalnaya Peak (3063 m) via the southeastern edge spur in the Eastern Sayan.

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ON THE FIRST ASCENT OF MT. DAL'NYAYA 3063 m, VIA THE SOUTHEAST RIDGE SPUR, APPROXIMATELY CATEGORY 2A DIFFICULTY, FROM OCTOBER 20, 2018 TO OCTOBER 20, 2018. Irkutsk 2018

I. Ascent Passport

1. General Information
1.1Full Name, Sports Rank of the LeaderGlazunov Evgeny Vladimirovich (Master of Sports)
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Description of the ascent route to the summit on May 9 (2578 m) in the Eastern Sayan Mountains, complexity category 2B, length 1100 m, elevation gain 500 m.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

  1. Class — rock climbing.
  2. Area — Eastern Sayan, Tunkin Goltsy ridge, Kyngarga valley.
  3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: p. Devyatoe maya, 2578 m, between the "diamonds" on the NE slope.
  4. Proposed category of difficulty: 2B.
  5. Route characteristics:
    • height difference — 500 m.
    • route length — 1100 m.
    • average steepness — 40°.
  6. Pitons hammered: rock — 4 pcs.
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Ascent to the top of Dynamo peak in the Tunkin Alps via the combat edge of the eastern slope, category 4A difficulty. Description of the route and its passage by a group of climbers in 1971.

Irkutsk

Regional Alpine Federation

Protocol №–304 from 6.71 г. To first ascenders.

Description

Ascent to v. Dinosaur (Tunkin Alps). via the eastern ridge (EASTERN SAYAN)

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Ascent to the summit of Dinosaur (2820 m) along the northwestern ridge with ascent along the left western counterforce, difficulty category 4A.

Passport

I. Class of ascent — rock. 2. Region of ascent, ridge — Tunkinskie Goltsy, Zuun-Khandagai and Baruun-Khandagai gorges. 3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. Dinosaur, 2820 m, via the northwestern ridge with ascent along the left western counterfort. 4. Proposed category of difficulty — 4A category. 5. Characteristics of the route: height difference — 450 m; average steepness — 38°; length of sections: 2 — 400 m, 3 — 220 m, 4 — 270 m.

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Ascent to the summit Doktor (2627 m) via the North ridge, category 2A, in Tunkinskie Goltsy range.

Ascent Passport

  1. Eastern Sayan, Tunka Goltsy Ridge, Kharimta gorge, section 6.1.
  2. Doktor Peak, 2627 m, via the North Ridge.
  3. Proposed category 2A, first ascent.
  4. The route is rocky.
  5. Height difference 400 m, length 800 m, average slope 30°.
  6. Pitons driven: rock and wired 6 pcs.
  7. Team's travel time — 5 hours.
  8. No overnight stays on the route.
  9. Group:
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### Climbing Route Description: 3B Category, Lastochka Peak 3100 m, South Face, East Sayan Mountains A detailed breakdown of the ascent route with a complexity category of 3B to Lastochka Peak (3100 m) via the South Face in the East Sayan Mountains, including thorough analysis of sections and belaying arrangements.

Ascent Passport

  1. Eastern Sayan, Bolshoy Sayan ridge, Moguvek gorge, section 6.1.
  2. Lastochka peak, 3100 m, via the South wall.
  3. Proposed 3B category of difficulty, first ascent.
  4. Route type — rock climbing.
  5. Height difference — 350 m, length — 535 m, average steepness — 50°.
  6. Pitons driven: rock and chock — 28 pcs.
  7. Team's traveling hours — 8 hours.
  8. No overnight stays.
  9. Group: Bersenev Yu.V. 1st sports category, Antonov E.V. CMS, Gerus A.O. 3rd sports category, Nabokikh K.S. 3rd sports category.
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