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Route Description: кулуару с севера
Description of the first ascent to **Peak Petra I** (3422 m) in Altai via ice-snow route, category 1B complexity level.
ASCENT PASS TO THE SUMMIT "Pik Petra I"
July 10, 2001
- Ascent type — ice and snow.
- Ascent area — Altai, South-Chuya Ridge.
- Summit — Pik Petra I, height — 3422.0 m, route is combined — snow, ice, rocks.
- Expected category — 1B.
- Route characteristics: height difference — 500 m, length — 900 m, average steepness — 45° without a ridge.
- Number of ice screws driven — 12, rock screws — 2.
- Number of hours on the move — 7 hours.
Route Description: траверс
Traverse of Trenirovochnaya and Barnaul peaks in Belochuysky ridge of Altai, 2A category of difficulty, first ascent in 1998.
165
I. Climbing category — first ascent. 2. Altai, South Chuya Ridge, Sofiyskiy glacier area. 3. Trinirovочная Peak — traverse to Barnul Peak. 4. Proposed category 2A, first ascent. 5. Trinirovочная Peak elevation 3500 m, Barnul Peak 3700 m. Elevation difference 600 m, length 1800 m. 6. Pitons were not used. 7. Total climbing time 8 hours. 8. Overnight stays: not necessary. 9. Team of two: Mokhova Valentina Mikhailovna 1st sports category, Eremin Andrey Anatolyevich 3rd sports category.
Route Description: 3 склону
Description of the first ascent of category 4 complexity on Chuysky Peak (3777 m) in the South-Chuya ridge on Altai.
PASSPORT
- Category of first ascents.
- Altai, South Chuya Ridge, Sofiyskiy Glacier area.
- Pik Chuyskiy 3rd slope.
- Proposed 4B category of difficulty for the first ascent.
- Height 3777 m. Elevation gain 460 m. Length 680 m.
- Pitons: 29 ice screws for belay.
- Climbing hours: 14.
- Overnight stays: not necessary.
- Leader: Andrey V. Drakin, Candidate Master of Sports.
Route Description: левой части С склона
Peak V. Shumilov via the left part of the North face, category 3A, is an ice and snow route with an elevation gain of 500 m and a total length of 1600 m.
the summit of Peak V. Shumilov via the left part of the North slope 3A category, ice-snow, Barnov S.I.
Altai, South Chuya Ridge
1.3
Passport
- Class: ice-snow.
- Altai, South Chuya Ridge, Elangash valley, 1.3
- Peak V. Shumilov via the left part of the North slope. Coordinates: (49°44.068′ N, 87°58.504′ E, height 3555 m according to the navigator)
- Proposed - 3A category, first ascent.
- Elevation gain: 500 m (between the summit and the intermediate camp: 744 m);
Route Description: центру С склона
Description of the ice-snow route to the summit of peak V. Shumilov via the North slope, difficulty category, details of passage and belaying.
The route to the summit of Pik V. Shumilova via the left part of the North slope,
snow-ice, coordinates: 49°44.068′ N, 87°58.504′ E, height 3555 m according to
the navigator, approximately for
c/tr.
The route, view from the
northeast
The route,
view from the
glacier
View from the
glacier
Route Description: В склону С гребня
First ascent to the top of Yablonsky via the eastern slope of the northern ridge, category III, route and approach description.
Passport
- First ascent
- Altai. South Chuya Ridge, Akkol river gorge
- Mt. Yablinsky V. via E slope of N ridge
- Proposed category 3A, complexity level 2B
- Height 3650 m, elevation gain 400 m, distance 700 m
- Pitons: ice screws 12 pcs.
- Climbing hours 10 from bivouac to bivouac 5 h from glacier to glacier
Route Description: В кф.
Description of category 1B complexity route via Edelweiss pass along the Eastern ridge with a detailed analysis of the path sections and descent recommendations.
Edelweiss Pass Route
Eastern Ridge Route, Category 1B difficulty
Traverse of Khabarovsk Climbers Peak
Descent from the Routes
Via the Eastern Counterfort, Category 1B difficulty. From the camp to the start of the route takes 20–25 minutes.
| Section | Length | Steepness, ° | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| R0–R1 | 80 m | 25° | Old snow |
| R1–R2 | 100 m | 30° | Steep slope |
Route Description: траверс
Description of the Category 1B route to the summits of Khabarovsk Alpinistok (2166 m) and Ulun (2221 m) with recommendations on equipment and ascent tactics.
9. Descriptions of Ascent Routes to Mt. Khabarovskikh Alpinistok (2166 m)
Mt. Khabarovskikh Alpinistok (2166 m) – Mt. Ulun (2221 m), Category 1B Difficulty
From the base camp, move along the left tributary of the Ulun River, then towards the Edelweiss Pass. After 20–30 minutes of walking, start ascending up and to the right along the Eastern Counterfort of Mt. Khabarovskikh Alpinistok (2166 m). After 1 hour and 10 minutes of ascent along a relatively simple snow-covered ridge with step-kicking, reach the Northeast Ridge of the summit, then continue along it for 20 minutes to the summit. The ridge is not steep and is snow-covered, but mutual belay is necessary due to the presence of snow cornices. Crampons are mandatory! The summit of Khabarovskikh Alpinistok is a pyramid with steep walls dropping to the Southwest and Southeast. The further path is clearly visible from the summit. The traverse follows the ridge directed from North to South. Characteristics of the ridge:
- rocky, fairly narrow;
- drops steeply on both sides with walls up to 60 m deep;
- partially snow-covered, which somewhat simplifies movement;
- features low "gendarme" formations that can only be overcome head-on.
Route Description: СЗ гребню
Description of the Kuznetsk Alatau mountain region and the ascent route to Bolshoy Zub peak via the Caucasian Eastern ridge, category 1B complexity.
Characteristics of the Region
Administratively, the region is part of the Askizsky District of the Krasnoyarsk Krai and borders on the Kemerovo Oblast to the east. The mountain-taiga steel railway line Novokuznetsk—Abakan connects the remote, previously hard-to-reach areas of Khakassia and Kuznetsk Alatau. Departing from Novokuznetsk station at 17:25, the train arrives at Luzba station at 23:30 local time. The region's climate is sharply continental and harsh. Abundant precipitation contributes to the lush development of vegetation in the summer. During the winter months, a thick snow cover accumulates; in river valleys, it reaches a thickness of 2–3 meters, hiding buildings under it. In settlements:
- Footpaths are laid at the level of eaves;
- Train compositions run along tracks in deep snow trenches. The administrative boundary of the regions almost coincides with the climatic boundary: the eastern slopes of Kuznetsk Alatau, located in Khakassia, differ significantly from the western slopes in terms of precipitation, and in winter, the snow cover is much less beyond the Tiger-Tyshsky and Surgassky ridges. This area has significantly more sunny days than the valleys of the Kozyr, Bel-Su, Amzas rivers, etc. Relief. Kuznetsk Alatau, bordering the Kuznetsk depression to the east, is an orographically complex massif where absolute heights reach 2000–2100 m above sea level. The region is generally characterized by mid-mountain relief, transitioning into small-hilly, hilly-ridge relief to the east (Photo 1).
Route Description: СВ кф
Report on the first ascent of the route category 1B to the Bolshaya Bariernaya peak in the Putorana Plateau by a team led by Dmitry Orlov on April 2, 2021.
Report on the First Ascent to the summit of Bolshaya Barrierная via Orlov's Route, Category 1B, on April 2, 2021
1. Object Description
| № | 1. General Information | |
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full Name, sports rank of the team leader | Orlov Dmitry Sergeevich, 2nd sports rank in alpinism |
| 1.2 | Full Name, sports rank of the participants | Ryabinin Vasily Viktorovich, 3rd sports rank in alpinism |
| 1.3 | Full Name of the coach | |
| 1.4 | Organization | |
| 2. Characteristics of the ascent object | ||
| 2.1 | Region | Putorana Plateau |