Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: high-altitude technical
2. Ascent area: South-West Pamir, Shakhdarin Range.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: peak Luknitskogo, 5800 m, via the center of the Western wall.
4. Proposed difficulty category: 6
5. Route characteristics:

• height difference: 1350 m
• average steepness: 65°
• average steepness of the wall section: 72°
• length of sections with 5–6 difficulty categories: 1237 m

Brief Description of the Area

The Soviet Pamir is divided into three parts:

• eastern,
• central,
• western. The central part of the Pamir is a highly elevated desert plateau, with destroyed mountains of 5000–5500 m height. The plateau is surrounded by chains of high mountains with sharply dissected relief. The Western part of the Pamir differs sharply from the Central Pamir. Comparatively low northern slopes of the ridge with calmly flowing rivers suddenly abut against the sheer walls of the main ridge. This part of the Pamir remains a poorly studied area. The goal of the Russian Spartak expedition was:
• more detailed study of this area,
• educational and sports high-altitude ascents,

II. Passport

1. High-altitude class, combined route.
2. South-Western Pamir.
3. Peak Marx via the right part of the S wall.
4. 5B cat. dif., First ascent.
5. Height difference 1726 m. Average steepness of the wall section — 65°. Length of sections with 5 cat. dif. — 840 m. 6 cat. dif. — 140 m.
6. Pitons driven: | Rock | Nuts | Bolt | Ice | | :------- | :------- | :--------- | :------ |

To the Classification Committee of the USSR Alpine Federation Moscow

REPORT

ON THE FIRST ASCENT OF MARX PEAK (6726) VIA THE NORTH-WEST RIDGE ON THE SOUTH-WESTERN PAMIR, MADE BY THE COMBINED TEAM OF ALPINISTS FROM THE DNEPROPETROVSK REGIONAL COMMITTEE FOR PHYSICAL CULTURE AND SPORTS. August 1–16, 1971

3. Climbing Passport

1. Climb category – high-altitude technical.
2. Climbing area – Shakhdarin Range, Pamir.
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route – peak "Medoviy" (peak 5350) via the Eastern ridge.
4. Proposed difficulty category – 3B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference – 1250 m, average steepness – 30°, section lengths – R1–700 m, R2–300 m, R3–25 m, R4–150 m, R5–8 m, R6–200 m, R7–45 m, R8–400 m, R9–350 m.
6. Pitons hammered for protection: rock – 10, ice – 0, bolt – 0.
7. Number of climbing hours – 9.

REPORT

ON THE FIRST ASCENT OF PEAK 5112 M (MEYDAN) VIA THE WESTERN RIDGE FROM THE PASS BETWEEN PEAKS 5112 M AND 5378 M (SOUTHWEST PAMIR, SHAKHDARINSKY RANGE, VAKHAN RANGE, VNUKUT VALLEY) Group members: GUDYALIS A.V., SIMUTIS R.YU. Organization: Committee for Physical Culture and Sports under the Council of Ministers of the Lithuanian SSR Address: Zemaite's 6 Phone: 63-53-53 Team leader and coach: GUDYALIS Algis Vitautovich 233021, Lithuanian SSR, Kaunas, Kanyuku 1st, 4, apt. 17, work phone 26-45-91, home phone 22-53-41, 75-35-11. All heights mentioned in the report are determined using a topographic map. www.alpfederation.ru

Report

On the First Ascent in Technical Class

OF THE EXPEDITION TEAM FROM THE KHAARKOV MOUNTAINEERING COMMITTEE 15th pass Led by Matyukhina L.G. Route: p. Mionku via the E slope 1982

Map of the Area

Brief Description of the Approach to the Route

ASCENT DOCUMENT.

1. Climbing category - technical - high-altitude.
2. Climbing area - SW Pamir, Shakhdarin range.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route - p. Gl. Moskovskoy pravdy, 6000 m, via North ice wall from E. icefall Gl.v.
4. Estimated difficulty category - 5B cat. diff.
5. Height difference (from base camp) - 1500 m.
6. Average steepness - 60°.
7. Total route length - 2000 m.
8. Length of sections with 5-6 cat. diff. - 700 m.
9. Number of pitons driven - 84 ice screws.

Report

On the first ascent of the eastern ridge of Peak Pamyati Zhertv Tetnulda (5746 m) (Moscow Pravda) in the southwestern Pamir, approximately 4B–6 category of difficulty, made by a group of participants of the Donetsk Climbing Competition for the championship of the Ukrainian SSR in 1967 in the class of high-altitude technically complex ascents. Donetsk 1967

I. Geographical location and sports characteristics

The area of Peaks Marx and Engels is located within the Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Region of the Tajik SSR, in the southwestern Pamir, within the geographical coordinates: 37°02′–37°06′ north latitude and 72°29′–72°32′ east longitude. Climbers began to explore this area relatively recently compared to other regions of the Pamir and Tian Shan. Only in 1954 did an expedition from the Georgian Alpine Club arrive here. They were the first to ascend several peaks in the area, including the highest point – Peak Karl Marx (6726 m) from the south (from the East Nishghar glacier), and the third highest peak – Peak Friedrich Engels (6510 m) from the south (from the Kishty-Dzherob glacier). The high (over 6000 m) ridge from Peak Leningrad State University to Peak Marx drops steeply to the east into the Zurgvand valley, forming a nearly vertical wall about 8 km long. The northeastern walls of Peaks Marx and Engels (to the right of the Kustovsky route, beyond the bend of the wall) can evoke admiration for their inaccessibility among any master of wall climbing. Therefore, with the recent introduction of a new class – high-altitude technically complex ascents – in the USSR championships, societies, and departments on mountaineering, this area became very popular and will likely remain a pilgrimage site for many climbing groups for a long time.

General Information about the Peak

Peak Elvira Shatayeva (5690 m) is located in one of the lateral ridges branching off from the Peter the First Ridge (Central Pamir). The peak was first conquered in 1974 by a group led by V. Shatayev. The ascent was made along the southwestern slopes of the peak from the Tanymas Glacier. In 1976, a group of Ukrainian climbers made the first ascent to the peak from the east, 25. Group composition:

• I. Kovtun V.G. — MS — leader
• Galas F. — IMS — participant
• Podgorsky V.M. — IMS — participant

4. Tkachenko V.F. — 1st category — participant
5. Okhrimenko V.N. — 1st category — participant
6. Kovtun N.P. — 1st category — participant