Fig. 21 88. Karaugom East (4495 m) via the Southeast Buttress (G. Rebërn's combined route, Category III, Fig. 21). The path from the KSP of the Tsey region or from the village of Dzinaga (group of 4-8 people) to the initial bivouac on the platforms of the Western ridge of Bivouachnaya peak is described in route 83. From the bivouac, cross northwest across the Karaugom plateau (closed crevasses) and approach the wide southern slope of the Southeast Buttress of Karaugom East. From the plateau, having passed the bergschrund, ascend a steep 300-400-meter snowy slope (avalanche danger) to the saddle of the Southeast Buttress above the large first pinnacle. On the saddle, turn left and ascend the sharp snowy ridge (cornice). Further, along simple, partially medium-difficulty snow-covered rocks of the Southeast Buttress, approach the large pinnacle. Bypass the pinnacle on the right along a steep ice-snow slope or overcome it directly via steep rocks of medium difficulty (running belay). Behind the pinnacle, initially along a snowy (cornices), then along a heavily damaged rocky Southeast Buttress with "live" rocks - belay - ascend to the shoulder. Here, turn left and along the simple, gently sloping, damaged, and snow-covered (cornices) Northeastern ridge, ascend to the summit of Karaugom East. From the initial bivouac, 7-8 hours. Descent follows the ascent route. Naumov A. F. Karaugom, Digoria, Tsey (Central Caucasus), M., "Fizkultura i sport", 1976.

V. Karaugom, Traverse, 4B cat. diff.

Western Eastern North-East ridge Shoulder Bol. Zh. R1 R2 R3

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock climbing.
2. Ascent area: Caucasus, Skalisty Range.
3. Peak: Kion-Khokh (3421 m), via the East Ridge.
4. Estimated category of difficulty — 2A, first ascent.
5. Height difference: 400 m, total route length — about 2500 m. Average steepness of the route — about 20°.
6. Number of pitons hammered on the route: 4.
7. Number of moving hours/days: 5 hours – 1 day.
8. Overnight stays: none.
9. Leader: Sergey Egorin, Candidate for Master of Sports.

Passport

1. Climbing type: rock climbing
2. Climbing region: Caucasus, 26: Komidon River valley
3. Peak, route: KION-KHOKH peak (3420 m): from the South, right of the ridge
4. Expected category of difficulty: 4A: partially explored
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 300 m, route length — 450 m, section lengths:
   • 3 — 140 m
   • 4 — 30 m
   • 5 — 55 m, average steepness of the main part of the route — 60–70°

REPORT

On the first ascent to the peak of Kion, via the route South wall of the Eastern shoulder by the team of AK "Kaskad" 2024

I. Ascent Report

Some text was recognized here from a PDF file. This is a “Quote” with a non-breaking space and hyphen. 1000 m, 5 h, 1940–2025 years. cat. diff. 1B, 2A. R4. 1st sports category. Time 9:00–17:00, 2 h 30 min. Date August 15, 1953  (Incorrect parentheses). Section 5. CMS. Example image: Another text. 50–60 meters. R0–R1. Category of difficulty 4.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

2.7.68

1. Ascent category: combined
2. Ascent area: ridge — Caucasus, Tsey Valley, Kalper ridge.
3. Peak, height, route, route characteristics: Lagau, 4064 m via Western ridge
4. Proposed category: 2B
5. Pitons used: six
6. Route characteristics: height difference 600 m, average slope 30°.
7. Duration: 10 hours
8. Number of nights:

222. Lagai (4124 m) via the Northwest slope (K. Barov's combined route, category 4A). From the CSP of the Tsey region (a group of 4-8 people), ascend along the trail on the left bank of the Skazdon River. After passing the "Green Hill," climb the moraine that turns left. From the end of the moraine, traverse a wide scree slope to the left to reach a small plateau below the Northwest slopes of Lagai. Set up the initial bivouac on the plateau. The journey from the CSP of the Tsey region takes 4-5 hours. From the plateau (depart at 3:00 due to rockfall risk in the lower section of the route):

• Ascend a steep, potentially snow-covered scree slope in a wide couloir to reach three rock buttresses separated by narrow, steep snow and ice couloirs, to the right of the steep, rugged snow and ice slope of Lagai.
• From here, climb simple to moderately difficult rocks on the middle buttress ("loose rocks"), bypassing gendarmes on the left, to reach a platform on the left saddle.
• An alternative ascent to the saddle is possible via a couloir on the left, but it is more prone to rockfall. The journey from the initial bivouac takes 2-4 hours. From the saddle, ascend rocks of moderate difficulty, then a 200-220-meter snow and ice slope (avalanche and rockfall risk), to reach a col formed by ice falls from the glacier on the left and a rock belt wall on the right. From under the col:
• Climb 120-150 meters to the right and upwards on steep, slab-like, destroyed, and icy rocks of the belt wall, with moderate to above moderate difficulty ("loose rocks" - piton protection);

Moscow Order of Lenin Aviation Institute

named after Sergo Ordzhonikidze

Ascent

to the summit of Mamisong Khokh via the right edge of the North face (approximately 5B category of difficulty) First ascent. Group leader: V. Obruchnikov. Coaches: Master of Sports of the USSR L. Puchkov Master of Sports of the USSR M. Zinin

169. Kaltberg (4120 m) via the Western slope and the Northern ridge (combined route, category 1B difficulty, Fig. 35). The path from the CSP of the Tsey region (group of 4-6 people) to the Lower Ice overnight camps is described in route 83. From the Lower Ice overnight camps, cross the Uilpatinka river and, turning left, intersect the right-bank moraine. Descend from it to the Tsey glacier, cross it, then ascend to the left-bank moraine at its lowest part. Leave the moraine and ascend via the middle talus on the right side of the couloir descending from the Northern ridge of Kaltberg peak. Then:

• cross the couloir to the left and upwards,
• reach a grassy slope and move up along it to the Western counterfort. Further, via simple broken rocks and talus of the Western counterfort, bypassing all gendarmes along simple rocks and talus ledges, ascend to the Northern ridge of Kaltberg. Here, turn right and, via simple rocks, bypassing difficult wall sections on the left, then along the 100-120-meter wide icy-snowy Northern ridge (with protection), approach the Big Gendarme. Here, exit right onto a talus ledge. Along it, then via steep rocks of the Northern ridge, ascend to the Big Gendarme. From the gendarme, make a 12-15 m sports descent to a snowy saddle. Further:
• via steep rocks of the narrow Northern ridge,
• a 30-meter broken ascent,
• ascend to the summit of Kaltberg.