1. Lagai (4124 m) via the Northwest slope (K. Barov's combined route, category 4A).

From the CSP of the Tsey region (a group of 4-8 people), ascend along the trail on the left bank of the Skazdon River. After passing the "Green Hill," climb the moraine that turns left. From the end of the moraine, traverse a wide scree slope to the left to reach a small plateau below the Northwest slopes of Lagai. Set up the initial bivouac on the plateau. The journey from the CSP of the Tsey region takes 4-5 hours.

From the plateau (depart at 3:00 due to rockfall risk in the lower section of the route):

  • Ascend a steep, potentially snow-covered scree slope in a wide couloir to reach three rock buttresses separated by narrow, steep snow and ice couloirs, to the right of the steep, rugged snow and ice slope of Lagai.
  • From here, climb simple to moderately difficult rocks on the middle buttress ("loose rocks"), bypassing gendarmes on the left, to reach a platform on the left saddle.
  • An alternative ascent to the saddle is possible via a couloir on the left, but it is more prone to rockfall.

The journey from the initial bivouac takes 2-4 hours.

From the saddle, ascend rocks of moderate difficulty, then a 200-220-meter snow and ice slope (avalanche and rockfall risk), to reach a col formed by ice falls from the glacier on the left and a rock belt wall on the right.

From under the col:

  • Climb 120-150 meters to the right and upwards on steep, slab-like, destroyed, and icy rocks of the belt wall, with moderate to above moderate difficulty ("loose rocks" - piton protection);
  • Traverse simple, gently sloping, snow-covered rocks to reach the snow and ice slope of the glacier descending from under the summit of Lagai.

From the rock belt, initially ascend a poorly defined, steep snow and ice ridge, then traverse a slope, bypassing all rock outcrops on the left, for 350-400 meters (avalanche risk - piton protection) to reach platforms on the Southwest ridge.

Here, turn left and traverse a snow cornice, then a simple rock ridge, to reach the first gendarme. Overcome the gendarme head-on or bypass it on the right via steep, heavily destroyed rocks.

Continue along a simple, destroyed, and snow-covered slate ridge (cornice risk), bypassing the second gendarme on the right, to reach the summit of Lagai. The journey from the Southwest ridge takes 2-3 hours.

Descent:

  • Via the Southwest slope (described in route 221)
  • A simple descent to the south from the point of reaching the Southwest ridge

The duration of the route is 3 days.

Naumov A. F. Karagum, Digoria, Tsey (Central Caucasus), M., "Fizkultura i sport", 1976.

Sources

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