V. UPI from the north, 2B cat. diff.

From the camp, move up the river to the beginning of the B.Aktru glacier (right) and up it to the first step of the icefall, located between the "khitsan" and the slope of v.Kar­atash (link up!). Time 1–1.5 hours. The first stage is overcome between the slopes of the peaks Karatash and the icefall (left along the track). Climb up the snowy slope to the second stage, which is bypassed on the left along the track, next to the rocky ridge of the peak are snowy. Cross the glacier in the direction of the peak UPI (crevasses!). Time 1.5–2 hours. Climb up the snowy-icy slope of the peak UPI to the pre-summit ridge. The ridge is sharp. The western side of the ridge is icy, the eastern side breaks off with cornices. Move along

Passport

1. Class. First ascent.
2. Altai, Severo-Chuysky ridge, Karakabak gorge.
3. Peak "Russia XX века" – peak "Instruktorov" traverse.
4. Proposed 3A category of difficulty.
5. Elevation difference 860 m, length 2210 m.
6. Pitons: 18 ice screws.
7. Climbing hours: 11 h from glacier to glacier.
8. Overnight stays: not necessary.
9. Leader: Drakin A.V. CMS.

Report

of the Altai Regional Federation of Alpinism (ARFA) team on the first ascent of Peak Nikolai Bondarchuk, South Chuya Ridge, Elangash valley. "2B", (k) Barnaul 2013 Leader: Vitaly M. Guselnikov — Master of Sports in Alpinism. Participants:

• Pavel Badanov
• Valery Bogomolov
• Dmitry Bondarchuk
• Alexander Grebennikov

Passport

1. Climbing category — first ascent.
2. Altai, South Chuya Ridge, Sofia Glacier area.
3. Peak Brat via N slope.
4. Proposed 2A category first ascent.
5. Height 3700 m, elevation gain 260 m, length 680 m.
6. 4 ice screws.
7. 13 hours of climbing time.
8. No overnight stay required.
9. Leader Mokhova Valentina Mikhailovna, 1st sports category.

Ascent Passport

1. Altai, South Chuya Ridge, section 1.3 of the classifier
2. Dzhanikktu, 3922 m, via the southeast ridge from Rubtsovsk Pass.
3. Proposed category: 1B.
4. Route type: combined.
5. Height difference: 760 m. Route length: 1480 m. Length of sections with category V complexity: 0, category VI complexity: 0. Average slope: 30°.
6. Pitons left on the route Total: 0, bolted pitons: 0.
7. Team's travel time: 7 hours, 1 day.

Passport

1. Altai, South Chuya Ridge, KMGV section 1.3
2. v. Ksenia, 3634 m, E. ridge
3. Proposed 3B cat. diff., first ascent.
4. Route type — combined.
5. Route elevation gain — 295 m (by altimeter). Route length — 850 m. Length of 5 cat. diff. sections — 0 m. 6 cat. diff. — 0 m. Average steepness: main part of the route 65°, entire route 24°.
6. Pitons left on the route: total — 0, including bolted — 0. Used on the route: rock hooks — 6, chocks — 7.

PASSPORT

I. Category of the first ascent. 2. Altai, South-Chuisky ridge, area of Sofiysky glacier. 3. v. B. Luzhetskogo from N ridge. 4. Category 3A first ascent is proposed. /Initial visual assessment of the route was 2A–2B/ 5. Height 3600 m, height difference 550 m, length 1100 m. 6. Pitons: 9 ice screws, 1 rock piton. 7. 14 hours of climbing time. 8. Overnight stays: not necessary. 9. Leader: Drakin Andrey Valentinovich CMS.

Ascent Passport

1. Altai, South Chuya Ridge, classifier section 1.3
2. Nekrasova, 3573 m, via the southeast ridge.
3. Proposed category: 1B.
4. Route type: combined.
5. Elevation gain: 350 m. Route length: 1000 m. Length of sections with category V difficulty: 0, category VI: 0. Average slope: 22°.
6. Pitons left on the route Total: 0, bolted pitons: 0.
7. Team's travel time: 9.5 hours, 1 day.

Passport

1. First Ascent
2. Altai. South Chuya Ridge, Akkol River valley
3. v. Ostyry via NE ridge
4. Proposed category 2B
5. Height 3731 m, elevation gain 420 m, length 680 m
6. Pitons: Ice screws — 8 pcs.
7. Total climbing time 12 hours from bivouac to bivouac 7 hours from bergschrund below the ridge to the glacier under S ridge

July 13, 2001

ASCENT DOCUMENT for the summit "Peak 300 years of St. Petersburg"

1. Ascent category – Ice and snow.
2. Ascent area – Altai, South Chuya Ridge.
3. Peak – Peak 300 years of St. Petersburg, Height – 3514.5 m, combined route – snow, ice, rocks.
4. Expected category – 2A.
5. Route characteristics: height difference – 500 m, length – 1100 m, average steepness – 45° (excluding the ridge).
6. Number of ice screws used – 12, rock anchors – 2.
7. Total climbing hours – 11 hours.