Passport
- Climbing category — first ascent.
- Altai, South Chuya Ridge, Sofia Glacier area.
- Peak Brat via N slope.
- Proposed 2A category first ascent.
- Height 3700 m, elevation gain 260 m, length 680 m.
- 4 ice screws.
- 13 hours of climbing time.
- No overnight stay required.
- Leader Mokhova Valentina Mikhailovna, 1st sports category. Team members Eremin Andrey Anatolyevich, 3rd sports category. Pisarev Yaroslav Vladimirovich, novice. Sidorenko Inna Viktorovna, novice.
- Coach Drakin Andrey Valentinovich, 1st category, No. 68.
- Date of ascent August 11, 1998.
- Organized by Altai Krai Alpine Federation.
Peak Brat via N slope. Approach description.
From the base camp, located at the confluence of the Turaoyuk and Akkol rivers, follow a faint trail along the Akkol River. Initially, the trail runs along the swampy bank, then along the scree, and leads to a lake under the Sofia Glacier. The lake's shore features several small, transparent lakes. This is a suitable campsite. Approach time is 2–2.5 hours.
Route description.
From the campsite, approach the glacier by following the Akkol River. Ascend onto the glacier and initially move along its central part, then, before the icefall, move to the right-hand side. Climb a steep, even ice slope on the right to reach the upper glacier plateau. Use piton protection. Time from campsite is 3 hours.
Move up and to the right across the plateau towards the N slope of Peak Brat, navigating around numerous crevasses. Time to reach the N slope is 2 hours.
Ascend the northern slope, navigating around crevasses. Before reaching the summit, the slope steepens, and a bergschrund must be overcome. This section requires piton protection. The summit cairn is located on rocks slightly below the summit on the eastern side. Ascent time is 3 hours.
Descend via the ascent route. Descent time to campsite is 3–4 hours.
