122. South Dubl' Peak — North Peak (combined route by I. Antonovich, category III difficulty, fig. 20, 25). The path from the Tsey region's KSP (group of 4–8 people) to South Dubl' Peak is described in route 117. From South Dubl' Peak, descend along the ice-and-snow ridge, then down the slope to a wide saddle (with a corniche on the right). From the saddle, approach the base of North Peak's ascent. From the saddle, ascend a steep 70–80 m ice-and-snow slope in a couloir, then climb 25–30 m of moderately difficult rock (using piton insurance) to reach the Western ridge of North Peak. Here, turn right and follow the snow-covered, simple to moderately difficult rocks of the ridge to reach North Dubl' Peak. The journey from South Dubl' Peak takes about 1 hour. Descend via the ascent route or through the Karaugom Plateau (see routes 121, 63). The route duration is 3 days.
123. North Dubl' Peak — South Peak (combined route by M. Zvezdkin, category III difficulty, fig. 20, 25). The path from the Tsey region's KSP or the village of Dzanaga (group of 4–8 people) to the initial bivouac on the Western ridge's platforms of Bivouachnaya Peak is described in route 83. From the platforms, traverse the snow plateau of the Central branch of the Karaugom Plateau to approach (watch for hidden crevices) the steep ice-and-snow slope descending from the Tsey ridge's saddle (between North Dubl' Peak on the right and Krasnoflotets Peak on the left). From the plateau, to the left of North Dubl' Peak's western walls and ice fall:

• cross the snow bridge over the bergschrund;
• ascend the steep 400–500 m ice-and-snow slope (beware of avalanches; use piton insurance);
• reach the wide saddle of the ridge. On the saddle (with a corniche to the north), turn right. After crossing the bergschrund on a snow bridge, continue:

DUPLICATE NORTH PEAK B

VIA EAST RIDGE R15: 20 m 40° 3 RIDGE R14–R15: 80 m 80° 5 WALL R13–R14: 80 m 60° 4 RIDGE R12–R13: 150 m 70° 1 RIDGE, ICE R11–R12: 100 m 70° 4 RIDGE R10–R11: 60 m 30° 3 RIDGE R9–R10: 50 m 80° 5 WALL

10. Climbing Passport

1. Climbing category: rock
2. Climbing area: Gvandra region of the Caucasus
3. Climbing route: v. Zamok via the South wall, 3930 m
4. Climbing characteristics: height difference — 900 m, average steepness — 85°, length of complex section — 600 m
5. Pitons driven:

• rock — 228
• bolt — 7
• chocks — 9

NORTH PEAK DOUBLE 5A

VIA THE EASTERN RIDGE SOUTH NORTH R15 R14 R13 R12

From the overnight stay on the Tsейский glacier plateau below Mazа Dublyor peak, the route goes in the direction of the Northeast Ridge. Approach the ridge from its left side, through the bergschrund in the area of the avalanche gully, onto the snowy slope. Up the slope (40 m) to a rocky outcrop. Along the rocky outcrop on snow (120 m) to the right into the first couloir. Cross the second avalanche gully and on snow (60 m) to the rocks. On rocks of medium difficulty to the ridge beyond the first "gendarme". Traverse over the ridge to the shoulder — the first control cairn. From the cairn along the ridge, bypass a small "gendarme" on the left (possible to bypass on the right — 1 piton) to the wall. Up the wall (40 m, 80°). The wall rocks are heavily destroyed (rockfall hazard — piton belay). The wall initially traverses right and up (30 m), then straight up to the second large "gendarme". Further on the steep, crumbly ridge (120 m) to the wall. Up the wall (45–50 m) to the third "gendarme" (the wall of the "gendarme" has a large number of holds and "live" rocks, piton belay). From the "gendarme", descend along the snowy ridge, abutting the pre-summit wall. The steepness of the ridge is initially 25–30°, at the top up to 70° (belay via ice axe and ice screws). Along the ridge, initially keeping away from the cornice, then to the right (90 m), and then straight up under the rocks. The entire ridge is 250–300 m. Up the roc- (over 80 m) / to the pre-summit wall. Wall-

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent category: rock 2. Ascent area: Uzunkol — West Caucasus 3. Ascent route with indication of peaks, their heights, route complexity (and other approximate details): Zamok peak South wall 3930 m 4. Ascent characteristics: route length to the summit: 1200 m wall height difference: 670 m average wall steepness: 84–85° length of complex wall sections: 510 m

Description of the First Ascent Route

To the summit of Peak Айлама (Ailama) via the Western spur of the South wall, climbed on July 20-25, 1966, by a team from the Kuibyshev Regional Council of the "Trud" Sports Society. Ailama is located in the Main Caucasus Range. To the west of the summit, beyond the Unamusso pass ("Бессовестный" or "Shameless"), lies Peak Нуам-Куам (Nuam-Kuam), with a ridge connecting it to the summit of Восточная Шхара (Eastern Shkhara) via peaks 4250 m and 4100 m. Beyond the so-called "saw" of Ailama, the ridge turns south towards the summit of Цурунгал (Tsurungal), and then eastwards through peaks Черная Незнакомка (Black Stranger, пик Алеши Джапаридзе or Aliocha Djaparidze Peak) and Белая Незнакомка (White Stranger) to the Шерри–Вцек (Sherri-Vtsek) pass. The Ailama ridge stretches for a considerable distance. The western ridge has a steepness of up to 55° in its lower half and is characterized by a system of snow and ice undulations with steepness ranging from 25° to 75° in its upper part. The eastern ridge of the summit is primarily rocky and is known as the "Pила Айламы" (Ailama Saw), indicating its highly serrated nature. Along the entire length of the massif's ridge, steep walls with significant relative heights drop to the north and south; those to the north are mostly snow and ice, while those to the south are more rocky. Due to the remoteness of this mountain region from permanent alpine camps, until 1965, only a few sports groups, always consisting of high-class climbers, ascended Ailama. Most of these groups followed the ridge of the massif, undertaking extensive traverses of the crest.

Report

On the ascent to the summit of Elbrus West via the Western slope through Utyug for the category of complexity by the team of the "Maximum" Sports and Alpine Club of Pyatigorsk State University for the period from June 20 to 28, 2020.

I. Climbing Report Passport

Fig. 28 121. Dubl' pik Severny (4516 m) via Western slope (combined route, P. Glebova, category 3A, Fig. 28). The path from CSP of Tsey region or from the village of Dzhinaga (group of 4-8 people) to the initial bivouac on the platforms of the Western ridge of Bivouachnaya peak is described in route 83. From the platforms (closed crevasses), go along the snowy plateau of the Central branch to the left side of the wide snowy slope descending from the saddle between the peaks of Dubl' pik. From the plateau, having crossed the bergschrund via a snow bridge, ascend the snowy slope to the right side of the Western ridge of Severny Dubl' pik. From Tsey-Karaugom pass, it is better to approach here by traversing a steep snowy slope, bypassing the western slopes of the Western ridge of Yuzhny Dubl' pik above the bergschrund (avalanches - insurance). Further, along a steep icy-snowy slope, sometimes along simple rocks on the right side of the Western edge of Severny Dubl' pik (rope insurance), there is an ascent of 500-600 m to the saddle between the peaks. There is a large cornice on the east side of the saddle. The path from the saddle to Severny Dubl' pik is described in route 122. From the initial bivouac - 5-8 hours. Descent is made via the ascent route or through the Southern peak (see routes 122, 117). The duration of the route is 2-3 days. Naumov A. F. Karaugom, Digoria, Tsey (Central Caucasus), M., "Fizkultura i sport", 1976.

Report

ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT CEЙ–ЛОАМ (КЯЗИ) VIA THE RIGHT COULOIR OF THE WESTERN RIDGE, CATEGORY 2A, BY THE TEAM OF THE MOUNTAINEERING CAMPS MANAGEMENT FOR THE PERIOD FROM 18:00 ON JANUARY 18, 2022 TO 18:00 ON JANUARY 18, 2022

I. Climbing Report