Fig. 28
- Dubl' pik Severny (4516 m) via Western slope (combined route, P. Glebova, category 3A, Fig. 28).
The path from CSP of Tsey region or from the village of Dzhinaga (group of 4-8 people) to the initial bivouac on the platforms of the Western ridge of Bivouachnaya peak is described in route 83.
From the platforms (closed crevasses), go along the snowy plateau of the Central branch to the left side of the wide snowy slope descending from the saddle between the peaks of Dubl' pik. From the plateau, having crossed the bergschrund via a snow bridge, ascend the snowy slope to the right side of the Western ridge of Severny Dubl' pik.
From Tsey-Karaugom pass, it is better to approach here by traversing a steep snowy slope, bypassing the western slopes of the Western ridge of Yuzhny Dubl' pik above the bergschrund (avalanches - insurance).
Further, along a steep icy-snowy slope, sometimes along simple rocks on the right side of the Western edge of Severny Dubl' pik (rope insurance), there is an ascent of 500-600 m to the saddle between the peaks. There is a large cornice on the east side of the saddle.
The path from the saddle to Severny Dubl' pik is described in route 122. From the initial bivouac - 5-8 hours.
Descent is made via the ascent route or through the Southern peak (see routes 122, 117). The duration of the route is 2-3 days.
Naumov A. F. Karaugom, Digoria, Tsey (Central Caucasus), M., "Fizkultura i sport", 1976.