1. Class of high-altitude technical ascents.
2. Central Tian-Shan, Kokshaal-Too ridge
3. Peak Pobeda Gl. summit (7439 m) via West summit from Dikiy pass from Zvezdochka glacier
4. Category of complexity — 5B
5. Height difference — 3039 m Average steepness of the ridge part of the route — 40°.
6. Pitons driven:
   • rock pitons — 5*
   • bolt pitons — 8
   • chocks — 6

Passport

1. Altitude class.
2. Central Tian-Shan, Kokshaal-Too ridge.
3. Pobeda (Main) via Dikiy Pass over Pobeda (3) by 3rd category.
4. 6A category of complexity.
5. Elevation difference: 3039 m, distance — 10090 m. The average steepness of the main part of the route (Western ridge from Dikiy Pass to 6700 m) – 44° (5230 m – 6700 m), the whole route – 19° (4400 m – 7439 m).
6. Previously hammered-in pitons: 15 rock, 8 ice, 1 snow (not removed). Hammered-in pitons: rock – 0, ice – 0, snow – 0.
7. Team's walking hours: 26 hours, 5 days.

Belarusian Federation of Alpinism

Report

on the ascent to the summit of Peak Pobeda 7439, Zap. Pobeda, Main, via the north edge from Dikiy Pass, 5B, by D. Medzmariashvili 2019

Route Passport

1. Mountain region: Tian Shan, Kyrgyzstan.
2. Name of the summit: Peak Pobeda (7439 m).
3. Category of difficulty: 5B high-altitude.
4. Nature of the route: snow-rock-ice.
5. Route:
   • Zvezdochka glacier, Dikiy Pass, Peak Pobeda West along the northern edge, Peak Pobeda Main, 7439 m, descent via the ascent route;

Passport

I. Class — technical 2. Tian Shan, Western Kokshaal-Too 3. Pik Podmoskovny via North Ridge 4. Proposed 5B category, first ascent 5. Elevation gain 1133 m. Distance 1250 m. Distance of sections with 5–6 category difficulty 730 m, including 120 m of 6 category. Average steepness of the main part of the route 65°. 6. Pitons driven: rock — 32/3, bolted — 0/0, chocks — 51/8, ice screws — 12/0 7. Team's travel time: 24 hours and 3 days.

Report

Peaks SAVO (6088)—Vazha Pshavela (6918) Central Tien Shan

Expedition of CS and MGS SDSO "Burevestnik"

Glukhov V.V.—captain, MSMS
Bobrov V.I.—coach, CMS
Zasetsky V.G.—participant, CMS
Petruk V.P.—participant, CMS
Soustin B.P.—participant, MS

Russian Mountaineering Championship

High-Altitude Technical Class

2023

Report

On the First Ascent

to the summit of Peak Uluun (5588 m) via the S wall and W ridge, category 6A (proposed) complexity by the team from St. Petersburg from August 23, 2023, to August 30, 2023. Ascent Passport

TABLE I. MAIN CHARACTERISTICS OF THE ASCENT ROUTE

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: high-altitude technical
2. Ascent area: Central Tien Shan, Kuilyu-Tau ridge
3. Summit: Peak Sovetskoy Konstitutsii 5281 m, northwest wall.
4. Proposed difficulty category 5B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference 1181 m, section length 5–6 km, tp 945 m, average slope 70°.
6. Pitons hammered:
   • rock - 97
   • ice - 60
   • bolted - 0

7.8.4

Route Description

TO PEAK ODINNADЦATI (northeastern summit) 5437 m. Brief geography of the area. Peak Odinnadцati is located in the area of the "Zapadny Bayankol" glacier on the Sarydzhas ridge, between Peak Bayankol and an unnamed peak located northwest of Peak Semenov. The massive glaciations in this area drain into the "Zapadny Bayankol" glacier and from the southeastern slopes into the Severny Inylchek glacier. The northeastern summit of Peak Odinnadцati is predominantly snow-ice in character. Strong winds, blowing mostly from the southwest, form huge cornices on the ridge of the peak, overhanging the northwestern slopes. The ascent was first made by athletes from the Kazakh Alpine Club led by U. Usenov in August 1957. The group consisted of ten climbers, divided into five teams:

• U. Usenov — Domianiди Я.
• Brega M. — Tagabergenov M.
• Kaveshnikov Yu. — Tarasenko

Climbing Passport

1. Region — Tian-Shan, Sary-Jaz ridge, 7.8.
2. Peak — 5576 m (1000th anniversary of Kazan) via the southern ridge from Inylchek glacier
3. Proposed category of difficulty — 5A, first ascent
4. Route type — combined
5. Route characteristics: height difference (by altimeter) — 2426 m, route length (from the saddle) — 4167 m, length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 527 m, average steepness: main part of the route — 57°,