ASCENT REPORT

(second passage of the route)

1. Climbing category: technical.
2. Pamir-Alai, Ak-Su valley.
3. Maly Iskander peak (4520 m) via the North-East face
4. Estimated difficulty category: 5B, rock
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 800 m length of sections with 5th cat. diff. — 435 m length of sections with 6th cat. diff. — 30 m

Climbing Passport

1. Category: Technical
2. Region: Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Asu gorge.
3. Summit: Iskander via the eastern wall
4. Route: Combined, first ascent, approximately 5B category difficulty
5. Elevation gain: 1049 m
6. Average slope of the route: 66°
7. Average slope of the wall section: 75°
8. Route length: 1813 m
9. Pitons used: rock — 66, chocks — 133, bolts — 1

Ascent Log

Completed in the 1982 Leningrad City Alpinism Championship

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area: Pamir range, Turkestan range, AkSu valley
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Petrogradets 5163 m via the center of the "south-east wall"
4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B cat. diff. (rocky)
5. Route characteristics: height difference 4200–5163 m (963 m), length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category 490 m, sections with 5th cat. diff. — 395 m, sections with 6th cat. diff. — 95 m, average steepness 72°
6. Pitons driven: for insurance, rock — 122, ice — 0, bolt — 0, chocks — 39; for creating artificial anchors, rock — 29, ice — 0, bolt — 0
7. Number of climbing hours: 37 over 4 days
8. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics: 3 overnight stays — shared (2 short lying, 1 — sitting)

Ascent Passport

1. Pamiro-Alai, Turkestan ridge, Ashat gorge, 2.1/2008
2. Peak: working name "Prometheus", 3900 m, via E ridge.
3. Proposed 3A category of difficulty, first ascent.
4. The route is rocky.
5. Height difference: 210 m. Length: 360 m. Length of V category of difficulty: 140 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route: 45°.
6. 1 hook left on descent.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alai, Turkestan Range
3. Peak (its height, route) — T. Sadykov Peak 4432 m via N.E. ridge
4. Expected category — 2B (rocky terrain)
5. Route characteristics Height difference 600 m, total route length 1100 m, average slope 35°
6. Number of travel hours — 5 hours
7. Number of protection pitons — 2
8. Number of overnight stays — none

PASSPORT

I. Technical class. 2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Ridge, Ak-su gorge. 3. Peak "4690" (50th anniversary of the Moscow Spartak), via the North slope. 4. Assumed 4B category of difficulty (second ascent). 5. Height difference — 700 m. Length — 1100 m. Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 330 m. Average steepness: route — 40°, ridge part — 15°,

Passport

1. Rock climbing.
2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Ridge.
3. Peak Asan (4230 m) from the east.
4. Proposed 5A category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Height difference: 630 m, wall section – 450 m. Length of wall section – 555 m. Average steepness of wall section – 69°.
6. Pitons driven: | Rock | Bolt | Chocks | Ice screws |

1. Climbing category — technical
2. Climbing area — Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range
3. Peak Gornjak (5013) — via the right edge of the Northern wall. KTM.5.4.1.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 6A, combined, first ascent
5. Height difference — 1273 m, including: wall — 453 m. Distance — 1710 m. Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 630 m, including: 6th category — 230 m (4160–4200, 4660–4700, 4775–4990). Average steepness — 60° (3740–5013), including: wall — 73° (4560–5013).
6. Pitons driven: Rock pitons 92/11 Nuts 87/11

The approach to the route is via an open grassy slope that leads to the central buttress of the Western wall of Duktarch (3800 m). The movement on the route begins to the left of the buttress along the "ram's foreheads" that lead to the ridge.

• R4–R1: "ram's foreheads" overgrown with lichen, 220 m, 30°, III. II
• R1–R2: along inclined shelves upwards to the right, exit to the L_в ridge (φ 40 m, 40°, IJ
• R2–R4: up the ridge, approach to the first control cairn, 80 m, I5–45°, III–IJ
• R4–R2: up the ridge, approach under the overhang, 85 m, 35–70°, III–IJ
• R7–R2: bypassing the overhang to the right of the ridge along the wall (rockfall hazard), 25 m, 80°, J
• P₂–P₂: transition to the left side of the ridge, up the chimney (rockfall hazard), 20 m, 80°, J
• P₃–P₄: exit to the second control cairn along inclined slabs, 40 m, 75°, IJ
• R₁₀–R₄: up the ridge, 40 m, 50°, III
• P₄–R₁₁: along an inclined slab exit to the inner corner, 30 m, 45°, III

Approach to the route along the slope leading to the northern ridge of the 3800 m "Dukhtarча" peak. Further:

• Traverse to the right along the scree and grassy slopes under the lower rocky belt under the western wall of the peak
• Exit to a deep canyon originating from the right part of the wall
• Overcoming the canyon directly under the wall
• Movement along the ruined rocks to the base of a wide scree couloir under the northwestern wall of the 4000 m "Dukhtorak" peak Section R0–R1. Ascent along the scree couloir and rocky outcrops like "barany lby" towards the saddle between the 3800 and 4000 m peaks. 400 m, 40°, diff. cat. II