Approach to the route along the slope leading to the northern ridge of the 3800 m "Dukhtarча" peak.

Further:

• Traverse to the right along the scree and grassy slopes under the lower rocky belt under the western wall of the peak
• Exit to a deep canyon originating from the right part of the wall
• Overcoming the canyon directly under the wall
• Movement along the ruined rocks to the base of a wide scree couloir under the northwestern wall of the 4000 m "Dukhtorak" peak

Section R0–R1. Ascent along the scree couloir and rocky outcrops like "barany lby" towards the saddle between the 3800 and 4000 m peaks. 400 m, 40°, diff. cat. II

Section R1–R2. "Barany lby" turning into ruined rocks with small walls and ledges. 80 m, 40°, diff. cat. II

Section R2–R3. Control cairn on the saddle. Further to the right along the ruined ridge to the exit under the rocky ascent. 40 m, 30°, diff. cat. I–II

Section R3–R4. The rocky ascent is overcome along the slabs and then along the crack with an exit to the ridge. 20 m, 40°, diff. cat. II

Section R5–R5. Movement along the ridge. 20 m, 20°, diff. cat. II

Section R5–R6. Rocky ascent. Passed:

• first along the inner corner,
• then to the right along the slabs,
• further along the crack — exit to the top of the ascent.

40 m, 60°, IV diff. cat.

Section R6–R7. A series of sharp "zhandarms" in the form of needles are bypassed on the left along the ledges with an exit then along the crack (10 m) to the ridge. 80 m, 30°, II diff. cat.

Section R7–R8. Large rocky ascent. Movement to the left along the crack turning into a chimney under steep planes in the form of blocks. 30 m, 45°, II+ diff. cat.

Section R8–R9. Ascent along the slabs and then along the crack (key section) towards the wide chimney completing the ascent. 40 m, 70°, II diff. cat.

Section R9–R10. Not entering the chimney, to the left along a small ledge and further along the slab upwards — exit to the ridge. 20 m, 40°, diff. cat. II

Section R10–R11. Straight up along the wall of the ridge — ascent to under the pre-summit ascent. 30 m, 60°, diff. cat. II

Section R11–R12. Movement along the ridge, then to the left along the ledges towards the small ridge branching off from the peak to the east. Along the small ridge — exit to the summit.

• 130 m
• 40°
• diff. cat. II

Descent to the southwest along the rocky couloir between the southern and western ridges of the peak — 60 m. Then rappelling onto scree ledges. Along the ledges traversing to the left, crossing over the ridges under the northwest wall of Kotin peak. Further descent along the couloir under the wall to the Frasu river valley.