Ascent Log

I. Ascent Class - High-altitude 2. Ascent Area - Pamir, Yazgulem Range 3. Object of Ascent - Peak Revolyutsii - 6974 m, first ascent from the Khabarviv-Khats glacier via the counterfort of the South Face 4. Estimated Difficulty Category - 5B 5. Route Characteristics:

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical.
2. Ascent area: 10-3 Pamir, North Shugnanskij Ridge.
3. Peak, height, ascent route: P. 5204 via the left edge of the northern wall.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 5B.
5. Route characteristics: elevation difference: 1050 m; length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 660 m; average steepness — 70°.
6. Number of pitons:

Ascent Passport

1. Class — rock.
2. Area — Eastern Sayan, Bolshoy Sayan ridge, Moguvek gorge.
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — Munku Sardyk, 3491 m, via the center of the North slope.
4. Proposed category — 2A category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Route character — ice and snow.
6. Height difference 500 m. Length 800 m. Average steepness 40°.
7. Ice pitons driven — 6 pieces.
8. Number of travel hours 4 hours.
9. No overnight stays.

Ascent Passport

1. Region: Eastern Sayan, Tunkin Goltsy, section 6.1.2
2. Pik Lyubvi 2121 m via waterfall ice on the right stream of the SW ridge
3. Proposed 2B category of difficulty in winter, first ascent.
4. Route type: combined. Elevation gain: 1111 m (GPS); Average slope of the entire route: 32°; Total route length: 2100 m; VI category of difficulty: 0 m; V category of difficulty: 0 m;

II. Ascent Record of Pograni­chnik Zabaykalya Peak, 3601.7 m, via the Southern Slope.

1. Al­tai, Chi­kha­chov Ridge, section 1.7.
2. Pograni­chnik Zabaykalya Peak, 3601.7 m, via the Southern Slope.
3. Proposed category 1B difficulty. First ascent.
4. The route is of snow and ice character.
5. Route characteristics:

• Elevation gain 500 m
• Length 1000 m
• Average slope angle 25°

6. Pitons used: ice screws — 1,

Akkum (4098 m)

Traverse from the northeast to the southwest — category 2A (fig. 1)

The Akkum peak, located in the cirque of the Levyy Kasckelen glacier, is a dome-shaped elevation with groups of rocks in a large snowy ridge that approaches it from the northeast. The northern slopes of the ridge are the main area of glacier nourishment. Fig. 1. The ascent to the summit begins along a branch from the main ridge, as if cutting into the Levyy Kasckelei glacier. From the glacier, ascend the snowy slope of medium steepness along the branch to its junction with the main ridge. The junction is crowned with a small dome covered with small scree. From the dome, continue moving along the snowy-ice ridge leading to the summit. Along the entire length of the ridge, huge snow cornices hang over the southern side. Therefore, it is necessary to move along it with careful insurance and a constant deviation to the right side. In some places, on steep sections, there are ice outcrops, requiring the cutting of steps. Two gendarmes are encountered. The first one is bypassed from the north along a steep icy slope, which is covered with snow at the beginning of the season. If there is ice, insurance is provided through ice screws. The slope leads to rocks, where the bypass is made. After the gendarme, it is advisable to make a traverse of the slope to a small saddle, behind which the second gendarme rises, easily bypassed from the south. Further:

• several steep ascents, where cutting steps is required again. Before the summit, it is necessary to take a left turn, exit onto a narrow snowy ridge, and along it — to the summit.

Route Description

Peak Aristova, named after one of the first Soviet climbers — Oleg Aristov, — is a rocky tooth and towers rising above the lateral ridge, which branches off from the Malo-Almatinsky spur at the location of the Karlytau peak. From there, the ridge stretches east-southeast for about 4 km, dividing the lateral valleys of the glaciers:

• Aristova
• Byrdzhiga. The initial bivouac is on the Aristova glacier plateau. The exit to the route should be no later than four hours, on a slope with a steepness of 55–60°. The ascent goes straight, a little south of a small group of rocks descending from the summit ridge. Deep snow cover:
• Creates convenience for ascending on beaten steps with insurance through an ice axe.
• Is avalanche-prone.

Traverse of the peaks Bogatyr - Kolesnik, 3B cat. route The beginning of the route to the North summit of Bogatyr is given in the previous description. Descent from the North summit of Bogatyr in the southern direction along the icy slope with a steepness of up to 60°, with two drops, bypassing the first gendarme on the left. The next two gendarmes are overcome head-on with alternating belay. Loss of height is up to 200 m.

Fig. 53

REPORT ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF Soviet VoIN PEAK VIA THE ROUTE OF 3A DIFFICULTY CATEGORY BY THE FRI-LINE TEAM FROM PYATIGORSK ON SEPTEMBER 28, 2023

I. Ascent Passport