Ascent Passport

1. Class — rock.
2. Area — Eastern Sayan, Bolshoy Sayan ridge, Moguvek gorge.
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — Munku Sardyk, 3491 m, via the center of the North slope.
4. Proposed category — 2A category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Route character — ice and snow.
6. Height difference 500 m. Length 800 m. Average steepness 40°.
7. Ice pitons driven — 6 pieces.
8. Number of travel hours 4 hours.
9. No overnight stays.
10. Leader: Afanasyev A. CMS.

Participants:

• Dorofeeva E. II sports category
• Kapustina T. MS
• Mayorov E. III sports category
• Rusak G. III sports category
• Yakovenko A. CMS.

11. Coach Mikhailov A. A. MS.
12. Date of departure and return — December 31, 1983.

2331.0 2899.0 2874.1 2350.3 2817.0 2899.0

Description of the ascent route to Munku Sardyk peak via the North slope 2A category of difficulty.

The route begins at the upper part of the middle moraine at an altitude of approximately 3000 m. Approach from the base camp — 4–5 hours.

Section R0–R1 200 m. 35° I — Snow slope. Section R1–R2 150 m. 40° II — Ice slope. Section R2–R3 100 m. 40° I+ Firn slope. Section R3–R4 150 m. 45° III — Slope glacier ascent. Belay via ice screws.

Section R4–R5 350 m. 40° II+ Ice slope. Alternating movement. Belay via ice screws.

Section R5–R6 20 m. 10° I — Rocky ridge, summit. Descent via NW ridge.

Section R1–R2

Taken from route 1B NE ridge to Munku Sardyk peak on May 1, 2003.

Section R3–R4

Taken from section R3 on May 1, 2003.

Section R2–R3

Taken from route 1B to Munku Sardyk on May 1, 2003.

Section R4–R5

Taken from section R5.

Technical photo of the route to Munku Sardyk peak 2A category of difficulty via the North slope. Photo Zenit, lens Industar, T/C slope of Opasnaya peak. May 3, 2003.