Russian Championship (Technical Climbing Category)

Climbing Report of the MAI Team

on peak Chiringyad 5864 m via the center of the Western wall, 6B category, August 5-8, 2008 Moscow, 2008 Team Captain: M. Volkov alpclu@yandex.ru ph. +7-985-233-83-64 Team Coach: V. Lavrinenko lavrinenco2004@mail.ru ph. +7-916-439-03-12 Report preparation: M. Pankov maxtreme@bk.ru ph. +7-910-492-76-05

Climbing Details

№ 4.12.61, peak Chiringyad 5864 m via the center of the Western wall (N. Petrov, 1989), 6B

2. Central Pamir, Nzguleim-Dara gorge
3. Peak 5156 m via the center of the east wall
4. Proposed category 5B, first ascent n p 540 × 59 / 2.44 r.
5. Height difference: 630 m, length: 740 m Length of sections with category 5-6 difficulty: 450 m. Average steepness of the route: 64°
6. Pitons hammered: | rock | stoppers | ice | | :--------: | :--------: | :-------: | | 9 I (6) | I 9 (2) | 9 / 2 |
7. Team's man-hours: 25 and days — 3

Moscow Regional Council of the Zenith Voluntary Sports Society

Traverse

• Peak 5600
• Peak 5682
• Peak 50 Years of the Armed Forces (Central Pamir)

Team Composition

• Pugachev V.A. — II sports category — team leader
• Kuzmin A.S. — I sports category — team member
• Makhnovich L.A. — II sports category — team member

Southwestern Pamir

North Shugnanskiy ridge

p. Vodzh (5434)

First ascent route 3A cat. diff. by E. slope, combined 600 m, 40°, 360/m, 100/Tv, 7 pitches, 3 belays, 6 hours Tarkhanov V.G. Samokotin Yu.T. Svyazin G.F. Rublev V.P. Elgin V.M. Petrov E.A. August 13, 1983

Brief description of the approach to the route

I. Climbing category — technical 2. Climbing area — Pgo — Western Pamir, Severo-Shugnanskiy ridge 3. Peak-Vodj, 5434 m, via the eastern ridge, combined 4. Proposed category — 3A 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 600 m, average slope — 40°, length of sections of category III — 360 m, category IV — 100 m 6. Pitons used: - for belaying for standing belay rock — 7 - ice — 3 - bolt —

Ascent Log

1. Class — ALPINE-TECHNICAL
2. Ascent Region — SOUTHWEST PAMIR SHUGNAN RANGE
3. Object — peak VODJ 5434 m
4. Route — via the left part of the north face ice-snow first ascent
5. Proposed difficulty category — 5A
6. Height difference: 864 m — total (by altimeter)

Ascent Passport

1. Class — High-altitude technical
2. South-West Pamir, North Shugnan Range, Nematzdara valley
3. Vodzh peak, 5434 m, via the North face through Marsh Mira pass
4. Proposed category of complexity — 5A cat. diff., snow-ice
5. Height difference: 780 m, length 1170 m, length of 5th category sections — 410 m, average steepness of main sections — 51° (5170–5410) 49° (4694–5080)
6. Pitons driven: protection and ITO rock —

The First RSFSR Climbing Championship

1983

First Ascent Category

Peak Vodzh 5434 m via the counterfort of the northeast wall (first ascent) Team of the Chelyabinsk Regional Sports Committee

• captain — Kaigorodtsev S.A.
• coach — Tarkhanov V.G. 454043, Chelyabinsk, Revolution Square, 4, room 96 chairman of the regional sports committee — Vanitkin Gennady Vasilyevich,

SOUTH-WESTERN PAMIR p. KAUNAS (5400 m) via western ridge

Brief geographical description of the climbing area

Ascent Passport

1. Climbing category: technical
2. Climbing area (according to KTMGV): South-West Pamir, Shugnan Range.
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: p. Mayronis, 5155 m via the South-West ridge.
4. Proposed difficulty category: 4B cat. diff., IV.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 955 m; average steepness 55°; length of sections: I — 300 m, II — 200 m, III — 100 m, IV — 80 m, V — 100 m.
6. Number of pitons hammered for belaying: rock — 17; ice — none; bolt — none; for creating ITO — none.
7. Number of travel hours: 14 h.
8. Number of nights and their characteristics: one night at an altitude of 4200 m.
9. Team coach: MS Dainius Makauskas.