Fig. 19 75. Taymazi — Glavnaya via East Ridge (combined route, category 2B difficulty, fig. 19). The path from the Taymazi meadow (group of 4-20 people) to the initial bivouac on the Taymazi pass is described in route 74. At the pass, turn right and approach the ascent of the East ridge of Glavnaya Taymazi peak. From under the ascent, descend to the right into a small snowy hollow. Traverse the hollow, bypassing the ascent, to reach the first snowy couloir descending from the East ridge. Here, turn left, overcome the bergschrund via a snow bridge, and ascend a steep 150-180-meter ice-snow, and in the upper part - scree, narrowing couloir to reach the East ridge. On the ridge, turn right and ascend simple rocks of the 90-100-meter East ridge ascent with wide ledges (belay) to reach the pre-summit shoulder. From the shoulder, ascend a straightforward snow-covered East ridge, bypassing a gendarme on the right (belay), to reach the summit of Glavnaya Taymazi. From the initial bivouac, 2.5-3 hours. Descent follows the ascent route. Route duration: 2 days. Source: Naumov A. F. Karaugom, Digoria, Tsey (Central Caucasus), M., "Fizkultura i sport", 1976.

Ascent Passport

I. Technical class. Combined route. 2. Central Caucasus. Digoria. Main Caucasian Range. 3. Tajmazi Glavnaja 3803 m. Western ridge. 4. Category 3B difficulty. 5. Height difference 600 m. Average steepness of sections determining the complexity of the routes is 60°. The total length of these sections is 160 m. Route length is 1150 m. 6. Pitons driven for belay: rock - 10 ice - 3 placements used - 11

1. Area: Central Caucasus, Digor district, Tana-Don gorge. Main Caucasian Range. Category according to CMGS - 2.6.
2. Tajmazi Glavnaya peak, 3803 m, via SW wall.
3. Proposed 5A category of difficulty, first ascent.
4. Route character - combined.
5. Height difference of the route: – from the saddle at the start of the route to the ridge - 250 m (by altimeter); – from the ridge - 180 m Route length along the wall - 579 m. Section lengths:

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category — technical
2. Ascent area: Central Caucasus, Main Caucasian Range, Digor district.
3. Ascent route: peak Zapadnaya Taymazi in the Taymazi massif via the eastern counterfort (3760 m)
4. Ascent characteristics: height difference 800 m, average slope 46°.
5. Pitons driven:
   • angled — II
   • ice — —
   • drilled (shlyambur) — —
6. Number of travel hours — 7 (from bivouac to summit).

Fig. 19 77. Tajmazi East — West (combined route, 4A cat. of difficulty, Fig. 19). The path from the "Tajmazi" clearing (group of 4-8 people) to the summit of East Tajmazi is described in route 72. From the East summit, descend along a simple rocky ridge in the direction of the Central summit. Then, along a wide, long snow-covered simple rocky ridge, bypassing numerous small gendarmes on the left and overcoming only one head-on, then along a simple wide snow-covered ridge, ascend to Central Tajmazi. From the East summit, it takes 2 hours 30 minutes. From the Central summit, descend along a wide steep snowy ridge towards the West summit onto a snowy saddle. From the saddle, along a wide ledge, then along the inner corner of the left side of the ridge, ascend to under the summit tower of the VII gendarme (first from the Central summit). Bypass the tower on the right, then rappel onto the saddle under the VI Double-Humped gendarme. Along rocks of above-average difficulty, ascend a 15-20-meter wall onto the gendarme. From the Double-Humped gendarme, make a sports descent onto a snowy saddle. From the saddle, along rocks of above-average difficulty, ascend 45-50 meters onto the V gendarme (pitons insurance). From it, descend using sports equipment. Then, along a narrow ridge, passing small gendarmes head-on, approach the IV gendarme, overcome it head-on along rocks of average difficulty, and descend onto the saddle under the III gendarme. Bypass the III and II gendarmes along ledges and rocks of average difficulty (pitons insurance) on the right side of the ridge, then ascend a 15-meter wall onto the saddle under the I gendarme. Overcome the gendarme head-on and along a snowy (cornices), then narrow rocky ridge, ascend to the summit of West Tajmazi. The route includes the following sections:

Fig. 19 76. Tajmazi Zapadnaya — Vostochnaya (combined route by G. Cherevichenko, 4A category of difficulty, fig. 19). The path from the "Tajmazi" meadow (group of 4–8 people) to the summit of Zapadnaya Tajmazi is described in route 74. From Zapadnaya Tajmazi, descend in the direction of Central'naya Tajmazi along a narrow rocky, then snowy (cornices) ridge to under the I gendarme. Overcome it directly along the ridge with a descent to under the II gendarme. From under the II gendarme, make a 15 m rappel to the left and along the rocks on the left side — bypass the II and III gendarmes of the ridge. Overcome the IV gendarme directly along the moderately difficult rocks of the ridge. Further, along a narrow ridge with several low gendarmes (overcome directly along the ridge), exit under the large V-gendarme. Overcome the gendarme directly. From it, make a difficult 15 m descent to a platform, from which make a 30 m rappel to a snowpatch. Then, along rocks of above-average difficulty, make an ascent (piton belay) to the VI — Dvugorbyi gendarme, from it make a 15 m rappel to a saddle under the VII gendarme. Along the ridge, ascend to the gendarme, traverse along the left side (pitons belay) of the summit ridge of the gendarme. At the end of the gendarme, move to its right side. From here, descend along an internal angle, then along a wide, destroyed ledge, exit to a saddle under the ascent to Central'naya summit. On the saddle, make a bivouac. Travel time:

• From Zapadnaya Tajmazi: 4–6 hours
• From the initial bivouac: 9–11 hours

For the championship of the Central Council of the Spartak Voluntary Sports Society in the category of technically complex ascents.

DALAR PEAK

via the western wall

Team of the Spartak CS DSS Alpine Camp "Uzunkol"

www.alpfederation.ru

Route Description

R0–R1 (when ascending from Gebi valley): The path from the Western side is easier to navigate and access the Northern ridge. From the overnight stays at the bottom of the valley, we head East, ascending the Western slope of Chirh ridge. We need to go up to the right along the scree slope, orienting towards the right edge of the central part of Chirh ridge, to the rightmost standalone tower - this is at 3505 m. There are still a number of rock gendarmes to the right of it, but they are lower in height. Along the scree couloir, and in the upper part - along the rocks on its right side, we go up towards the col between the peaks of Ev. Goluba (3503 m) on the left and 300 years of St. Petersburg (3505 m) on the right. Before reaching the col, we divert to the right along rocky ledges and walls between them onto the rocks to the right of the narrow couloir; and exit onto the Northern ridge of peak 3505 m. The entire section is about 900 m. From the overnight stays, it takes 3-4 hours. R1–R2: Along the Northern ridge to 3505 m, mostly on its right side, ascend 20 m along rocks of 2nd category difficulty. To the right of the narrow ridge:

• traverse of 4th category difficulty; 70°; 2 m. After that, another 25 m; 1-2 category difficulty, and ascend to peak 3505 m - 300 years of St. Petersburg. The entire section is about 50 m; 40-50°. There are no signs of human presence on the summit. The summit is a good panoramic point. Descent is via the ascent route.

Route Description

Ascent Passport

1. Rock class.
2. Caucasus. Digoria, Rocky ridge, section number in KMGV 2.6.
3. Uazakhoh (3529 m), via the Eastern ridge and the Northern wall of the tower.
4. 1B category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Height difference of the route 530 m, route length about 1 km. Average steepness of the route 30°.
6. Driven pitons: 2/0; закладок 3/0. Left on the route rock anchors — 2, for descent.
7. Team's walking hours – 6 hours, days – 1.
8. Comfortable overnight stay.

Report on the first ascent by the team of the multipurpose mountaineering club "FRILINE" from Essentuki to the summit of Lkha (Western) 2625 m

via the SW couloir of the slope. Presumably Category 1B difficulty. Team leader: Donskov Andrey Mikhailovich Coach: Motienko Nikolai Ilyich Essentuki 2017 Addresses: 357500, Stavropol Krai, Pyatigorsk, Sovetskaya St., 137, Motienko N. I. phone: +7-928-361-90-66, nik-motienko@mail.ru 357500, Stavropol Krai, Pyatigorsk, Mira St., 19, apt. 22, Donskov A. M. phone: +7-962-017-82-09, donskov91@mail.ru Coach: Motienko N. I.