Fig. 19
- Tajmazi Zapadnaya — Vostochnaya (combined route by G. Cherevichenko, 4A category of difficulty, fig. 19).
The path from the "Tajmazi" meadow (group of 4–8 people) to the summit of Zapadnaya Tajmazi is described in route 74. From Zapadnaya Tajmazi, descend in the direction of Central'naya Tajmazi along a narrow rocky, then snowy (cornices) ridge to under the I gendarme. Overcome it directly along the ridge with a descent to under the II gendarme. From under the II gendarme, make a 15 m rappel to the left and along the rocks on the left side — bypass the II and III gendarmes of the ridge. Overcome the IV gendarme directly along the moderately difficult rocks of the ridge.
Further, along a narrow ridge with several low gendarmes (overcome directly along the ridge), exit under the large V-gendarme. Overcome the gendarme directly. From it, make a difficult 15 m descent to a platform, from which make a 30 m rappel to a snowpatch.
Then, along rocks of above-average difficulty, make an ascent (piton belay) to the VI — Dvugorbyi gendarme, from it make a 15 m rappel to a saddle under the VII gendarme. Along the ridge, ascend to the gendarme, traverse along the left side (pitons belay) of the summit ridge of the gendarme. At the end of the gendarme, move to its right side. From here, descend along an internal angle, then along a wide, destroyed ledge, exit to a saddle under the ascent to Central'naya summit. On the saddle, make a bivouac.
Travel time:
- From Zapadnaya Tajmazi: 4–6 hours
- From the initial bivouac: 9–11 hours
From the saddle, make an ascent to Central'naya Tajmazi along a steep snowy couloir. From the saddle, 15–20 minutes. From the Central'naya summit, along a wide, long, snow-covered easy rocky ridge, bypassing numerous small gendarmes on the right and overcoming only one directly, then along an easy rocky ridge, make an ascent to the summit of Vostochnaya Tajmazi. From Central'naya, 2.5–3 hours.
Descend along the Northeast ridge (see route 72). The duration of the route is 3 days.
Source:
- Naumov A. F. Karavgom, Digoriya, Tsey (Central Caucasus), M., "Fizkultura i sport", 1976.