Fig. 19
- Taymazi — Glavnaya via East Ridge (combined route, category 2B difficulty, fig. 19).
The path from the Taymazi meadow (group of 4-20 people) to the initial bivouac on the Taymazi pass is described in route 74. At the pass, turn right and approach the ascent of the East ridge of Glavnaya Taymazi peak. From under the ascent, descend to the right into a small snowy hollow. Traverse the hollow, bypassing the ascent, to reach the first snowy couloir descending from the East ridge. Here, turn left, overcome the bergschrund via a snow bridge, and ascend a steep 150-180-meter ice-snow, and in the upper part - scree, narrowing couloir to reach the East ridge.
On the ridge, turn right and ascend simple rocks of the 90-100-meter East ridge ascent with wide ledges (belay) to reach the pre-summit shoulder. From the shoulder, ascend a straightforward snow-covered East ridge, bypassing a gendarme on the right (belay), to reach the summit of Glavnaya Taymazi. From the initial bivouac, 2.5-3 hours.
Descent follows the ascent route.
Route duration: 2 days.
Source: Naumov A. F. Karaugom, Digoria, Tsey (Central Caucasus), M., "Fizkultura i sport", 1976.