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Route Description: ЮВ кф. З гребня
Description of the first ascent of the 4B category route to the summit of Charskiye Zori (2920 m) in the Eastern Sayan Mountains along the south-eastern counterfort of the western ridge.
Ascension certificate
- Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskie Goltsy range, Baruun-Khandagai river gorge. Section number according to classification table 6.1.2 — Charskie Zori, 2920 m (summit coordinates: 51°55′24.54″ N 102°10′90″ E), via south-eastern counterfort of western ridge
- Difficulty category: proposed 4B cat., first ascension
- Nature of the route — rocky.
- Route elevation difference: 400 m Route length: 550 m. Length of sections: V cat. difficulty — 60 m, VI cat. difficulty — 85 m. Average steepness: wall section of the route — 80°, entire route
Route Description: В стене Ю кф.
Report on the first ascent of a route of 5A category of difficulty via the eastern wall of the southern counterfort of the Charskiye Zori peak (2920 m) in the Eastern Sayan.
Ascent Report
Peak Charskie Zori (2920 m) — Eastern wall of the Southern counterfort — Route 5A cat. diff. (proposed), first ascent — Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge, Barun-Khandagai gully, 6.1 Leader: Klepikov A.A. Participants:
- Ilyinsky V.A.
- Shcherban A.N.
2013
Ascent Passport
- Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge, Barun-Khandagai gully, 6.1
- Peak Charskie Zori (2920 m), via E wall of S counterfort.
- Proposed — 5A — first ascent.
Route Description: стене СВ гребня
Report on the first ascent of the "Dядя Саня" route, category 5A, via the North-Eastern ridge wall of the Charskiye Zori peak, 2920 m.
Report
on the first ascent to the peak Charskie Zori 2920 m via the "Dядя Саня" route on the wall of the North-Eastern ridge, approximately 5A category of difficulty, for the period from June 28, 2019 to June 28, 2019. 2019
I. Climbing Passport
| 1. General Information | ||
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader | Boyko Aleksey Andreevich, CMS |
| 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of the participants | Glazunov Evgeny Vladimirovich, MS — Boyko Aleksey Andreevich, CMS |
Route Description: ЮВ гребню
Description of a 1B category complexity mountaineering route in the Zun-Uandagai gorge, Eastern Sayan, with a detailed description of the path and technical features.
Geographical location, sporting characteristics of the area
The Zun-Khandagai valley is located in the middle part of the main watershed ridge of the Tunkinskie Goltsy mountains in the Eastern Sayan. The alpine-type relief of the area with sharp peaks and heavily serrated ridges provides opportunities for classifying a number of sports routes in this valley. Routes are classified only on SOAN-3B, 4A, 4B. The absolute heights of the valley are close to 3000 m. The peak Shelekhov (2810) is located in the northwest corner of the upper valley, forming with its southern and southeastern ridges a small, cirque-like feature, which opens into a wide couloir leading to the northwest lake of the valley. The passage of routes is often complicated by significant snow cover, which falls early in autumn and melts mostly by the end of May or June. The approach with a load to the base camp at the forest boundary from the Tunkinskaya valley, along the road leading from the village of Tagarkhay, takes one and a half walking days.
Route description
From the base camp at the forest boundary - to the right (orographic) upper cirque. From the lake to the northwest, the entire route to the very summit is clearly visible (photo 1). Passing along the eastern shore of the lake, ascend to a gentle ridge that leads directly to the route. At the end of the gentle part of the ridge - rope up.
Route Description: центру Ю стены
Report on the first ascent of a 5A category route through the center of the southern wall of Pik Shishkin in the Eastern Sayan Mountains.
Report
On the first ascent to the summit of Pik Shishkina via the center of the South Face route, category 5A, by the team of the "Gory Baikala" club, from May 6, 2018, to May 6, 2018.
I. Climbing Report
| 1. General Information | ||
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader | Glazunov Evgeny Vladimirovich (MS) |
| 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of the participants | Panova Alena Mikhailovna 1st sports rank |
| 1.3 | Full name of the coach | Glazunov Evgeny Vladimirovich (MS) |
Route Description: кулуару ЮЗ стены
Description of the first ascent to the summit Arkov V.V. (2391 m) via the couloir of the Southwest wall, complexity category 2A.
Passport of ascent to the summit Arkov V.V. 2391 m, via the South-West wall couloir, cat. 2A, diff. cat. 1. Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge, Bugotoy valley, section 6.1. Summit Arkov V.V., 2391 m, via the South-West wall couloir. Proposed cat. 2A, first ascent. Route character is rocky. Height difference 200 m, length 420 m, average steepness 40°. Pitons driven: rocky and stoppers 7 pcs. Team's moving hours — 5 h. No overnight stays on the route. Group: Afanasiev A.E. MS, Barulin A.G. 3rd sports rank, Geidarov K.G. 2nd sports rank,
Route Description: Ю гребню
Description of the first ascent to the summit of Zagorulko S.A. (2428 m) along the Southern ridge, category 2A complexity.
Ascent passport to the peak Zagorulko S.A. 2428 m, via South ridge, cat. 2A diff. level 1. Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskie Goltsy range, Bugotoy valley, section 6.1.
- Peak Zagorulko S.A., 2428 m, via South ridge.
- Proposed cat. 2A diff. level, first ascent.
- Nature of the route is rocky.
- Elevation gain 200 m, length 400 m, average steepness 40°.
- Pitons driven: rocky and placement type 4 pcs.
- Team's walking hours — 5 h.
- No overnight stays on the route.
- Group:
Route Description: СВ ребру от пер. Снежный
Climbing route description to the peak Baruun in Tunkinskiye Goltsy, including approaches, logic and recommendations for groups.
Passing the section
R4–R5
Passing the crux R5–R6. The "fly swatter" on
the crux.
The summit, station behind a boulder
Approaches.
From the hut on the lake, we ascend to the moraine cushion, leaving the peaks Neftehimik, Monah, and Ch. Zori to the left. Further along the moraine ridge, we bypass the lower lake and gain altitude, heading to the right towards the peaks Baruun and Uzlovaya. The entire
Route Description: В кф.
### Climbing Route Description to the Summit (2678 m) Detailed characteristics table and recommendations for descent and required equipment.
Schematic map of the ascent area
TABLE
MAIN CHARACTERISTICS OF THE ASCENT ROUTE TO V.2678 m.
| Date | Designation | Avg. steepness in degrees | Length in meters | Terrain characteristics | Difficulty | Condition | Weather conditions | Pitons |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| I | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9—II |
| May 3, 1980 | 0—I | 50 | 120 m | slope | 1—2 | broken rocks, snowy ledges | cloudy, calm | outcrops |
| I—2 | 65 | 80 m | walls up to 12–20 m | 3—4 | snow-covered monolithic blocky rocks | 7 | ||
| 55 | 80 m | slope, walls | 1—2 | snow-covered destroyed rocks | outcrops | |||
| 2—3 | 65 | 40 m | wall | 3 | snow-covered blocky rocks | 3 |
Route Description: 3 гребню
First ascent description to the peak 5112 m (Meydan) via the Western ridge from the pass between the peaks 5112 m and 5378 m, category 1B in the Shakhdara range of Pamir.
REPORT
ON THE FIRST ASCENT OF PEAK 5112 M (MEYDAN) VIA THE WESTERN RIDGE FROM THE PASS BETWEEN PEAKS 5112 M AND 5378 M (SOUTHWEST PAMIR, SHAKHDARINSKY RANGE, VAKHAN RANGE, VNUKUT VALLEY)
Group members: GUDYALIS A.V., SIMUTIS R.YU.
Organization: Committee for Physical Culture and Sports under the Council of Ministers of the Lithuanian SSR
Address: Zemaite's 6
Phone: 63-53-53
Team leader and coach: GUDYALIS Algis Vitautovich 233021, Lithuanian SSR, Kaunas, Kanyuku 1st, 4, apt. 17, work phone 26-45-91, home phone 22-53-41, 75-35-11.
All heights mentioned in the report are determined using a topographic map.
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