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Description of the first ascent of the 4B category route to the summit of Charskiye Zori (2920 m) in the Eastern Sayan Mountains along the south-eastern counterfort of the western ridge.

As­cen­sion cer­ti­fi­cate

  1. East­ern Say­an, Tun­kin­skie Goltsy range, Ba­ruun-Khan­da­gai riv­er gorge. Sec­tion num­ber ac­cord­ing to clas­si­fi­ca­tion ta­ble 6.1.2 — Char­s­kie Zori, 2920 m (sum­mit co­or­di­nates: 51°55′24.54″ N 102°10′90″ E), via south-east­ern coun­ter­fort of west­ern ridge
  2. Dif­fi­cul­ty cat­e­gory: pro­posed 4B cat., first as­cen­sion
  3. Na­ture of the route — rocky.
  4. Route el­e­va­tion dif­fer­ence: 400 m Route length: 550 m. Length of sec­tions: V cat. dif­fi­cul­ty — 60 m, VI cat. dif­fi­cul­ty — 85 m. Av­er­age steep­ness: wall sec­tion of the route — 80°, en­tire route
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Report on the first ascent of a route of 5A category of difficulty via the eastern wall of the southern counterfort of the Charskiye Zori peak (2920 m) in the Eastern Sayan.

Ascent Report

Peak Charskie Zori (2920 m) — Eastern wall of the Southern counterfort — Route 5A cat. diff. (proposed), first ascent — Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge, Barun-Khandagai gully, 6.1 Leader: Klepikov A.A. Participants:

  • Ilyinsky V.A.
  • Shcherban A.N.

2013

Ascent Passport

  1. Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge, Barun-Khandagai gully, 6.1
  2. Peak Charskie Zori (2920 m), via E wall of S counterfort.
  3. Proposed — 5A — first ascent.
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Report on the first ascent of the "Dядя Саня" route, category 5A, via the North-Eastern ridge wall of the Charskiye Zori peak, 2920 m.

Report

on the first ascent to the peak Charskie Zori 2920 m via the "Dядя Саня" route on the wall of the North-Eastern ridge, approximately 5A category of difficulty, for the period from June 28, 2019 to June 28, 2019. 2019

I. Climbing Passport

1. General Information
1.1Full name, sports rank of the leaderBoyko Aleksey Andreevich, CMS
1.2Full name, sports rank of the participantsGlazunov Evgeny Vladimirovich, MS — Boyko Aleksey Andreevich, CMS
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Description of a 1B category complexity mountaineering route in the Zun-Uandagai gorge, Eastern Sayan, with a detailed description of the path and technical features.

Geographical location, sporting characteristics of the area

The Zun-Khandagai valley is located in the middle part of the main watershed ridge of the Tunkinskie Goltsy mountains in the Eastern Sayan. The alpine-type relief of the area with sharp peaks and heavily serrated ridges provides opportunities for classifying a number of sports routes in this valley. Routes are classified only on SOAN-3B, 4A, 4B. The absolute heights of the valley are close to 3000 m. The peak Shelekhov (2810) is located in the northwest corner of the upper valley, forming with its southern and southeastern ridges a small, cirque-like feature, which opens into a wide couloir leading to the northwest lake of the valley. The passage of routes is often complicated by significant snow cover, which falls early in autumn and melts mostly by the end of May or June. The approach with a load to the base camp at the forest boundary from the Tunkinskaya valley, along the road leading from the village of Tagarkhay, takes one and a half walking days.

Route description

From the base camp at the forest boundary - to the right (orographic) upper cirque. From the lake to the northwest, the entire route to the very summit is clearly visible (photo 1). Passing along the eastern shore of the lake, ascend to a gentle ridge that leads directly to the route. At the end of the gentle part of the ridge - rope up.

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Report on the first ascent of a 5A category route through the center of the southern wall of Pik Shishkin in the Eastern Sayan Mountains.

Report

On the first ascent to the summit of Pik Shishkina via the center of the South Face route, category 5A, by the team of the "Gory Baikala" club, from May 6, 2018, to May 6, 2018.

I. Climbing Report

1. General Information
1.1Full name, sports rank of the leaderGlazunov Evgeny Vladimirovich (MS)
1.2Full name, sports rank of the participantsPanova Alena Mikhailovna 1st sports rank
1.3Full name of the coachGlazunov Evgeny Vladimirovich (MS)
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Description of the first ascent to the summit Arkov V.V. (2391 m) via the couloir of the Southwest wall, complexity category 2A.

Pas­sport of as­cent to the sum­mit Ar­kov V.V. 2391 m, via the South-West wall couloir, cat. 2A, diff. cat. 1. East­ern Sa­yan, Tun­kin­skie Goltsy ridge, Bu­go­toy val­ley, sec­tion 6.1. Sum­mit Ar­kov V.V., 2391 m, via the South-West wall couloir. Pro­posed cat. 2A, first as­cent. Route char­ac­ter is rocky. Height dif­fer­ence 200 m, length 420 m, aver­age steep­ness 40°. Pitons driv­en: rocky and stop­pers 7 pcs. Team's mov­ing hours — 5 h. No over­night stays on the route. Group: Afa­na­siev A.E. MS, Ba­ru­lin A.G. 3rd sports rank, Gei­da­rov K.G. 2nd sports rank,

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Description of the first ascent to the summit of Zagorulko S.A. (2428 m) along the Southern ridge, category 2A complexity.

As­cent pass­port to the peak Za­go­rul­ko S.A. 2428 m, via South ridge, cat. 2A diff. level 1. East­ern Say­an, Tun­kin­skie Goltsy range, Bu­go­toy valley, sec­tion 6.1.

  1. Peak Za­go­rul­ko S.A., 2428 m, via South ridge.
  2. Pro­posed cat. 2A diff. level, first as­cent.
  3. Na­ture of the route is rocky.
  4. Ele­va­tion gain 200 m, length 400 m, aver­age steep­ness 40°.
  5. Pit­ons driv­en: rocky and place­ment type 4 pcs.
  6. Team's walk­ing hours — 5 h.
  7. No over­night stays on the route.
  8. Group:
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Climbing route description to the peak Baruun in Tunkinskiye Goltsy, including approaches, logic and recommendations for groups.

Passing the section R4–R5 Passing the crux R5–R6. The "fly swatter" on the crux. The summit, station behind a boulder

Approaches.

From the hut on the lake, we ascend to the moraine cushion, leaving the peaks Neftehimik, Monah, and Ch. Zori to the left. Further along the moraine ridge, we bypass the lower lake and gain altitude, heading to the right towards the peaks Baruun and Uzlovaya. The entire

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### Climbing Route Description to the Summit (2678 m) Detailed characteristics table and recommendations for descent and required equipment.

Schematic map of the ascent area

TABLE MAIN CHARACTERISTICS OF THE ASCENT ROUTE TO V.2678 m.

DateDesignationAvg. steepness in degreesLength in metersTerrain characteristicsDifficultyConditionWeather conditionsPitons
I23456789—II
May 3, 19800—I50120 mslope1—2broken rocks, snowy ledgescloudy, calmoutcrops
I—26580 mwalls up to 12–20 m3—4snow-covered monolithic blocky rocks7
5580 mslope, walls1—2snow-covered destroyed rocksoutcrops
2—36540 mwall3snow-covered blocky rocks3
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First ascent description to the peak 5112 m (Meydan) via the Western ridge from the pass between the peaks 5112 m and 5378 m, category 1B in the Shakhdara range of Pamir.

REPORT

ON THE FIRST ASCENT OF PEAK 5112 M (MEYDAN) VIA THE WESTERN RIDGE FROM THE PASS BETWEEN PEAKS 5112 M AND 5378 M (SOUTHWEST PAMIR, SHAKHDARINSKY RANGE, VAKHAN RANGE, VNUKUT VALLEY) Group members: GUDYALIS A.V., SIMUTIS R.YU. Organization: Committee for Physical Culture and Sports under the Council of Ministers of the Lithuanian SSR Address: Zemaite's 6 Phone: 63-53-53 Team leader and coach: GUDYALIS Algis Vitautovich 233021, Lithuanian SSR, Kaunas, Kanyuku 1st, 4, apt. 17, work phone 26-45-91, home phone 22-53-41, 75-35-11. All heights mentioned in the report are determined using a topographic map. www.alpfederation.ru

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