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The first ascent of Peak 5156 m in the Pamir Mountains via the East Face (Grade 5B), accomplished by a team led by G. Isachenko in 1984.

  1. Central Pamir, Nzguleim-Dara gorge
  2. Peak 5156 m via the center of the east wall
  3. Proposed category 5B, first ascent n p 540 × 59 / 2.44 r.
  4. Height difference: 630 m, length: 740 m Length of sections with category 5-6 difficulty: 450 m. Average steepness of the route: 64°
  5. Pitons hammered: | rock | stoppers | ice | | :--------: | :--------: | :-------: | | 9 I (6) | I 9 (2) | 9 / 2 |
  6. Team's man-hours: 25 and days — 3
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The Moscow "Zenith" team completed a traverse of Peaks 5600, 5682, and 50 let Vooruzhennykh Sil in the Central Pamir via a Category 5B route.

Moscow Regional Council of the Zenith Voluntary Sports Society

Traverse

  • Peak 5600
  • Peak 5682
  • Peak 50 Years of the Armed Forces (Central Pamir)

Team Composition

  • Pugachev V.A. — II sports category — team leader
  • Kuzmin A.S. — I sports category — team member
  • Makhnovich L.A. — II sports category — team member
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Ascent of Vodj Peak (5434) via the East Face, grade 3A complexity, combined route, first ascent.

Southwestern Pamir

North Shugnanskiy ridge

p. Vodzh (5434)

First ascent route 3A cat. diff. by E. slope, combined 600 m, 40°, 360/m, 100/Tv, 7 pitches, 3 belays, 6 hours Tarkhanov V.G. Samokotin Yu.T. Svyazin G.F. Rublev V.P. Elgin V.M. Petrov E.A. August 13, 1983

Brief description of the approach to the route

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Ascent to the top of Vodzh peak (5434 m) along the eastern ridge, a combined route of 3A category of complexity in the Western Pamir.

I. Climbing category — technical 2. Climbing area — Pgo — Western Pamir, Severo-Shugnanskiy ridge 3. Peak-Vodj, 5434 m, via the eastern ridge, combined 4. Proposed category — 3A 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 600 m, average slope — 40°, length of sections of category III — 360 m, category IV — 100 m 6. Pitons used: - for belaying for standing belay rock — 7 - ice — 3 - bolt —

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Ascent to Vozh Peak (5434 m) via the left part of the northern wall, difficulty category 5A, elevation gain 864 m, route length 1070 m.

Ascent Log

  1. Class — ALPINE-TECHNICAL
  2. Ascent Region — SOUTHWEST PAMIR SHUGNAN RANGE
  3. Object — peak VODJ 5434 m
  4. Route — via the left part of the north face ice-snow first ascent
  5. Proposed difficulty category — 5A
  6. Height difference: 864 m — total (by altimeter)
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Description of the ascent route to the summit of Vozh (5434 m) via the North face through the Marsh Mira pass, difficulty category 5A.

Ascent Passport

  1. Class — High-altitude technical
  2. South-West Pamir, North Shugnan Range, Nematzdara valley
  3. Vodzh peak, 5434 m, via the North face through Marsh Mira pass
  4. Proposed category of complexity — 5A cat. diff., snow-ice
  5. Height difference: 780 m, length 1170 m, length of 5th category sections — 410 m, average steepness of main sections — 51° (5170–5410) 49° (4694–5080)
  6. Pitons driven: protection and ITO rock —
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The Chelyabinsk team made the first ascent of Vozh Peak via the spur of the northeast wall during the I RSFSR Alpine Climbing Championship in 1983, with the route rated as Category 5B.

The First RSFSR Climbing Championship

1983

First Ascent Category

Peak Vodzh 5434 m via the counterfort of the northeast wall (first ascent) Team of the Chelyabinsk Regional Sports Committee

  • captain — Kaigorodtsev S.A.
  • coach — Tarkhanov V.G. 454043, Chelyabinsk, Revolution Square, 4, room 96 chairman of the regional sports committee — Vanitkin Gennady Vasilyevich,
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Ascent to the summit of Kaunas (5400 m) along the western ridge, category 4A route, description of the first ascent route.

SOUTH-WESTERN PAMIR p. KAUNAS (5400 m) via western ridge

VIRBALIS KESTUTIS— II grade "ZALGIRIS"
KIKAN VALDIS— 1st sp. grade "DAUGAVA"
BAJORAS EUGENIJUS— II grade "ZALGIRIS"
BAJORAS ROMUALDAS— II grade "ZALGIRIS"

Brief geographical description of the climbing area

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### Description of the First Ascent of Mayronis Peak (5155 m) via the Southwest Ridge in the Shugnan Range, Pamir Mountains, with a difficulty category of 4B.

Ascent Passport

  1. Climbing category: technical
  2. Climbing area (according to KTMGV): South-West Pamir, Shugnan Range.
  3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: p. Mayronis, 5155 m via the South-West ridge.
  4. Proposed difficulty category: 4B cat. diff., IV.
  5. Route characteristics: height difference — 955 m; average steepness 55°; length of sections: I — 300 m, II — 200 m, III — 100 m, IV — 80 m, V — 100 m.
  6. Number of pitons hammered for belaying: rock — 17; ice — none; bolt — none; for creating ITO — none.
  7. Number of travel hours: 14 h.
  8. Number of nights and their characteristics: one night at an altitude of 4200 m.
  9. Team coach: MS Dainius Makauskas.
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Description of a technical 4A category route to the top of Peak Mir (5,170 m) via the north ridge in the Pamir Mountains.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class — technical
  2. Ascent area — South-West Pamir, North Shugnan Ridge
  3. Peak — Marsh Mira, 5170 m, via the northern ridge, combined
  4. Proposed difficulty category — 4A
  5. Route characteristics: height difference — 475 m, average steepness of the ridge — 55°, length of sections of 3rd cat. diff. — 165 m, 4th cat. diff. — 210 m, 5th cat. diff. — 65 m.
  6. Pitons driven: | | for belay | for standing pitons | | :------------ | :------- | :------------------ |
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