Passport

1. Altitude class
2. Tian-Shan, North Inylchek Glacier
3. Peak Khan-Tengri, via North Ridge
4. 55 km
5. Elevation gain — 2995 m, distance — 5560 m. Length of sections 5 km – 660 m. Average steepness of the route — 33°. Excluding the snow plateau (5900–6000 m) and the summit dome (6920–6995 m) — 50°.
6. Pitons hammered: | rock | nuts | ice screws | | :--: | :---: | :------: |

World Climbing Championship

2012 High-altitude class

Report

on the ascent to Khan-Tengri peak, 6995 m via the southwestern slope and the left side of the southwestern edge, 5B category of difficulty (variant of the route by E. Kondakov, 1982) by the team from FAiS Ukraine (Ukraine-1), from August 10 to 18, 2009 Team coach: Mityukhin F. P. Team captain: Venslavovsky D. A.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — high-altitude and technical.
2. Ascent area — Central Tian Shan, Tengri Tagh ridge.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Peak Chapayev, 6371.0 m, via the Southeast ridge.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 5B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference 2200 m. Section lengths: 5th difficulty category — 810 m. 6th difficulty category — 65 m. Average steepness of the rocky part of the route — 60°, snowy-icy part — 42°.

Passport

1. Ice and snow class
2. Tian-Shan, Terskey Alatoo, Jetyoguz valley
3. p. Baitor, 4700 m, right part of the North face
4. Proposed – 5B–6B category of difficulty, first ascent
5. Height difference: 1050 m, route length – 1510 m, face – 1360 m, length of V–VI category sections – 1000 m, including 6 category – 70 m
6. Average steepness of the main part of the route – 54°
7. Pitons: rock – 17, ice – 247.
8. Climbing hours – 13.5

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — ice and snow
2. Ascent area — Central Tien Shan, Terskey-Alatau ridge
3. Oguz-Bashi 2nd Western (5000 m) via N wall
4. Estimated difficulty category — 6B. V. Leontiev's route (1984)
5. Height difference — 665 m
6. Distance — 880 m Distance of sections with 5-6 difficulty category — 880 m. Average steepness — 50°.
7. Pitons hammered in: | rock | bolt | chocks | ice |

Yunost 4300 25 to the Summit ridge P. Magomedova + 2 "Black Fang" 4255 Map of the axial part of the Terskey-Alatau ridge — upper reaches of the Djety-Oguz river.

Brief description of the approach to the route

Peak "Yunost" 4300 m (the height of the peak is given based on the topographic survey on a scale of 1:100,000, ed. 1962, is located in the northern spur of the Terskey-Ada-Too watershed ridge in the upper reaches of the left component of the Djety-Oguz river - the Baitor river, in the left part of the Baitor gorge (see map)). From Przewalsk by bus to the Djety-Oguz resort. Further along the Djety-Oguz gorge along the road to the Telety gorge 12 km.

№ 21. DESCRIPTION OF THE ASCENT TO THE "BRIGANTINA" PEAK B. Bloshtein, 1966 3rd ascent via O. Trubnikova's route, 1965 5A category (according to this report) 2nd ascent - V. Osipov, 1965 (August 15-18, 1965) 1st ascent - O. Trubnikova, 1965 (August 4-6, 1965) –1966– The "Brigantina" peak (4800) is located in the main part of the Terskey-Ala-Too ridge, 60 km south of Przhevalsk. Approach via the Kokbor valley:

• The Kokbor River is a right tributary of the Karakol River.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent area: Tian Shan, Terskey Ala-Too range, Karakol valley
2. Peak 20 let Latvii ~4130 m via the eastern counterfort and NE ridge
3. Proposed category of complexity: 2B. First ascent.
4. Route character — combined
5. Route elevation gain: 500 m (by altimeter)
6. Route length: 800 m
7. Used on the route: ice screws — 12, rock pitons and chocks — 0, bolt hangers — 0
8. Pitons left behind — 0
9. Team's climbing hours — 13

ASCENT LOG

1. Ascent category — technical
2. Ascent area — Tian Shan, Terskey-Ala-Too ridge, Karakol region.
3. Ascent route with indication of peaks and their altitudes: ascent to Peak Jigit via the western ridge (5170 m).
4. Ascent description: altitude difference 1170 m, average steepness — 34°, route length — 2650 m.
5. Pitons used: rock — 19, ice — 8, bolted — (dash).
6. Total climbing hours — 13.
7. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics:
   • 1st — western ridge, in a "Pamirka" tent.
   • 2nd — on a plateau, in a "Pamirka" tent.

PASSPORT

1. Snow-ice class.
2. Central Tien-Shan, Terskey-Alatau ridge.
3. Peak Karakolsky via the Northern face through "Zmeika", variation.
4. 5B category of difficulty.
5. Elevation gain 1480 m, length 2050 m. Length of sections with 5-6 category of difficulty is 1170 m. Average steepness of main sections is 60° (3800-4700).
6. Number of pitons: rock pitons 34, drilled закладок 6, ice screws 153.
7. Climbing hours - 32, days - 3.