North Tien Shan, Zailiyskiy Alatau

Peak Ordzhonikidze

via the right part of the North Face Category 4B difficulty

Ascent Passport

1. Type of ascent: technical
2. Ascent area: North Tien Shan, Zailiyskiy Alatau, Maloe Almatinskoe gorge
3. Peak, route: Peak Ordzhonikidze (4410 m), via N slope, first ascent.
4. Proposed category of difficulty: 4B, combined
5. Elevation gain: 600 m

Otechestvennoy voyny 1Б cat. difficulty via Mayakovsky peak's North ridge

Route description.

The peak Otechestvennoy voyny is located in the central part of the Maloalmatinsky spur; Mayakovsky peaks rise to the south of it, and Antikainen peak is to the north. On the western side and northern slopes of the lateral ridge of Mayakovsky peak, a small Mayakovsky Glacier descends. The eastern slopes are cut by narrow stepped couloirs, separated by steep rocky ridges. The starting bivouac is near the Mynzhilki weather station. From here, cross the Malaia Alma-Atinka river and go around the Manshuk Mametova glacier at its foot; then ascend to the ablation zone of the Mayakovsky Glacier. Move along the moraine, then along the

Partizan 2B cat. via West face from Ledik Igla

Route description.

The summit of Partizan is located in the main ridge of the Malo-Almatinsky spur. It rises with two rocky towers above its snowy-ice foundation. From the south, the peak is connected to the peaks of Igly Tuyksu by a long, heavily serrated rocky ridge; to the north lies the peak of Ordzhonikidze. They are connected by a 200-meter snow-ice ridge with powerful cornices on its eastern side. From here, the Partizan glacier flows down to the west. The initial bivouac can be conveniently set up on the moraine of the Igly Tuyksu glacier. The ascent begins by approaching the base of the left snow-ice couloir adjacent to the massif of the Ordzhonikidze peak. Traverse the narrowest part of the couloir and exit onto the ice slope. Belaying is with pitons. Crampons are necessary. If the ice sections are heavily exposed, one can:

• turn left onto the rocks
• ascend them with piton belaying to the upper snowy slope
• move along the slope towards the northern tower of Partizan

Partizan ZB c.l. via North-West face

Route description.

The ascent begins by approaching the north-west face of the peak via the Igly Tuyksu glacier. Here, on the moraine, is a convenient location for the initial bivouac. The route starts with an ascent up a firn slope, leading to a couloir (steepness 30–35°, prone to rockfall). After ascending 200 m, turn into the right branch of the couloir, cross it in its lower part, and exit to the right onto a rocky ridge, continuing along it. Certain sections require careful belaying. In the lower part of the ridge, the rocks are smoothed, and small terraces are encountered. After 50 m, there's an exit to difficult, sheer rocks. Piton belay is necessary (3–4 pitons). Further, for 100 m, the route follows rocks of medium difficulty to a saddle, where the right and left ridges, forming the couloir, converge. Then, there's a section of easy rocks, with scree and snow intermixed, leading to the most challenging, key section of the ascent. There are two options for overcoming this segment of the route:

• The first is a 60 m ascent up the rear, icy wall of the chimney (steepness 65–70°). It requires step-cutting and piton belay.
• The second is an ascent to the left up the chimney, which is no more than one and a half meters wide and has a steepness of 70°. The chimney is clogged with snow and ice, blocked by plugs, stacked one above the other. The height of the chimney to the plugs is 10–12 m. The first plug is passed on the left, the second on the right. Belay is via pitons.

4.2.156

Description of the ascent to Peak Paustovsky via the north-eastern ridge

We reach the Paustovsky glacier via moraine. The glacier cirque is bounded by a very steep rocky-ice wall. The upper part of the glacier is steep and gradually turns into the wall. Crampons are necessary here, and the last 30 meters require step cutting. We reach steep rocks in the right part of the wall. The wall has an overall steepness of about 75°. It consists of two sheer sections, each 30 meters long. The rocks are heavily destroyed, requiring piton belay. Beyond the rocks, a steep ice ascent begins. It is overcome with crampons and leads to the saddle between Peak Paustovsky and the Viewpoint peak. After ascending the north-eastern ridge, one should:

• traverse a steep snowy slope to the left;
• move to the eastern ridge of the summit. We traverse 250 m of easy to medium rocks and reach the pre-summit plateau. The ascent to the summit is made from the left along easy rocks and snow. Descent is via the Viewpoint peak. The entire route from the start of the moraine and descent takes about 10 hours. The group requests to evaluate the route as category 3A.

SKA SAVO

Report

ON THE FIRST ASCENT OF THE SOUTH WALL OF PIK PIONER 4050 m (left side) VIA ROUTE CAT. III (approx.)

SKA SAVO Team

Golodov Yu.F. — Master of Sports — team leader, Chumakov V.D. — Candidate Master of Sports — team member, Pavlov V.F. — 1st class — team member, Nesolenyi V.P. — 2nd class — team member, Mozgovoi A.G. — 2nd class — team member. 190 cm, 40 m, 60°, 3 stoppers, 5 hours.

Almaty

June 22, 1980

Panorama from Pik Pioner. From left to right:

• Ordzhonikidze Peak (4410 m)
• Tuyuk-Su Needles (4213 m)
• Tuyuk-Su Peak (4218 m)
• Pogrebetsky Peak (4231 m)
• Lokomotiv Peak (4182 m)
• Zoya Kosmodemyanskaya Peak (4108 m)
• Molodeжная Peak (4147 m) Photo: Alexey Ignatenko, Almaty. (Full version — 400 Kb)

Pogrebetsky via n.d. from the North

Route description.

From the initial bivouac on the moraine of the Molodezhny glacier, exit onto the Tuyuksu glacier and, bypassing the northeastern ridge of the Molodezhnaya peak, move along the middle of the glacier to its drop. Then deviate to the left and, bypassing large stones at the foot of the ridge of the Tuyuksu peak, reach the snow-ice step, then cross the right outflow of the Tuyuksu glacier and approach the northern wall of the peak, then continue moving under the rock outcrop along the snowy slope with a steepness of 30–35°. This section is dangerous: rockfalls and ice break-offs are possible. Therefore, it is recommended to start the route earlier, so that two-thirds of the path can be overcome before

First Ascent to the Western Peak "Bezbozhnik" via the North Face

The peak "Bezbozhnik" is located in the Dmitriyevka spur, which branches off from Stal'skiy peak and separates the Stal'skiy Glacier to the north and the Frunze Glacier to the south; both glaciers feed the tributaries of the Leviy Talgar River. To the east, "Bezbozhnik" peak is separated from Frunze peak by a pass of the same name, and to the west, a rocky-snowy ridge connects "Bezbozhnik" peak to an unnamed peak. The Leviy Talgar valley is rarely visited by climbers from both "Talgar" and "Tuyuk-Su" alpine camps (due to the non-classification of peaks and remoteness). At the beginning of the summer season in 1962, a group of instructors consisting of Mansurov B.Sh. and Postnikov V.V. conducted a reconnaissance in the Leviy Talgar area. They took photographs, compiled piton records, and descriptions of many peaks. The reconnaissance aimed to find routes of 5B category difficulty. Three routes were discovered:

• to the peak Konstitutsiya via the wall,
• to an unnamed peak in the area of the Dmitriyevka lesgik,
• to the "Bezbozhnik" peak. There was one existing route to "Bezbozhnik" peak with a category of 4B-5B. A group of instructors consisting of:
• Mansurov B.Sh.

General Information about the Peak

Peak Elvira Shatayeva (5690 m) is located in one of the lateral ridges branching off from the Peter the First Ridge (Central Pamir). The peak was first conquered in 1974 by a group led by V. Shatayev. The ascent was made along the southwestern slopes of the peak from the Tanymas Glacier. In 1976, a group of Ukrainian climbers made the first ascent to the peak from the east, 25. Group composition:

• I. Kovtun V.G. — MS — leader
• Galas F. — IMS — participant
• Podgorsky V.M. — IMS — participant

4. Tkachenko V.F. — 1st category — participant
5. Okhrimenko V.N. — 1st category — participant
6. Kovtun N.P. — 1st category — participant