Report

On the first ascent of the peak Nevidimka (4686 m) via the SW ridge through the 4607 m pass, category 1B-2A, by the Asia Outdoor guide team on July 29, 2023.

2023 I. Climbing Report Form

520025 ­мкб ­реб­пы

The ascent to p. Blizhniy was one of the training ascents for groups working as part of the High Pamir Expedition of Leningrad State University in 1968. The route along the eastern ridge is a combined route:

• about 100 m of broken rocks with a steepness of 45–50°;
• an ice slope of 80 m with a steepness of about 45°, covered with loose snow. From the base camp (see the description of the route to p. Volodarskogo) along the main slope to the river flowing from the plateau below p. V. Slutskaya. Crossing by stones is possible only in the morning hours. Further along the main slope in the direction of the eastern ridge of p. Blizhniy. The approach to the start of the route takes 3 hours. The main ridge, which then turns into the eastern ridge, leads to steep rocks, which are bypassed on the right. About 2.5 ropes of medium-difficulty rocks, with good ledges for belaying everywhere. The rocky ridge turns into a sharp ice ridge, but movement along it is hazardous due to snow cornices. Further:

The ascent of Peak Volodarsky (5567 m), Baigashka region, was made by a group working as part of the High-Altitude Pamir Expedition of Leningrad State University in 1968. The goal of the expedition was to traverse p. Trud — p. V. Slutskaya; among the acclimatization exits was an exit to the area of l. Volodarsky. From l. Volodarsky, ascents are possible to:

• p. Uritsky,
• p. Frunze,
• p. "5757",
• p. Volodarsky. Mostly, these routes are undoubtedly routes of the highest category of difficulty, however, on p. Volodarsky, an ascent along the northern ridge is possible, which is simpler. The route is combined — a 300 m rocky edge is of certain technical interest, and the further path along the ridge gives an idea of the nature of snow at high altitudes in this region. The ascent was made by a group consisting of: | Shumilov O. I. (leader) | 1st sports category | | :-------------------: | :-------------: |

The ascent to the ridge on the left along the track is initially on snow (30–35°), then the snow gives way to ice covered with a thin layer of loose snow (steepness 40–45°). Exit to the second saddle from the steep ascent. Further along the ridge, overcoming the gendarmes "head-on". Descent to the saddle before the steep ascent via a wall (5 m). From the saddle, on the right side of the steep, wide gully along the rocks. Snow-covered slabs, rope protection is via rock features. Having passed a large smooth slab (photo 2), upwards to the right via a short wall. In this section (from the saddle), 3 rock pitons were hammered in. Further along a not very pronounced steep (55–60°) ridge upwards. The rocks are solid, местами заглаженные, rope protection via rock features (I–2 pitons per rope). Photo 3. In places, there are sheer walls 10–15 m. Exit to the right shoulder of the gendarme (Photo 4), bypassing it on the right via a narrow ledge above the sheer drop and descent to the saddle before the snowy ascent. The total ascent to the gendarme is about 300 m, with a total of 11 pitons hammered in. From the base of the ridge — 4 hours. From the saddle, a steep (45°–50°) snowy ascent. The snow is exceptionally heavy, depth — 80 cm – 1 m, loose. In places, there is a weak crust, on which one can move by crawling. Ascent 100 m. Further, a more gentle wide ridge, the character of the snow is the same. Finally, a long ascent along a slope of about 30° leads to the summit of Peak Volodarsky (on the left side — a cornice). From the saddle behind the gendarme — 4 hours. The descent is initially along the north-eastern ridge for 200 m, a steep ridge — 50–60°, then downwards to the left, bypassing the ice drops. Snow depth is about 60 cm, loose. Further, re-entering the ascent tracks and following them to the overnight stop. From the summit — 3–4 hours. On the next day, descent to the base camp.

Report

On the high-altitude traverse of Peak Oktyabrsky – Peak Lenin, with the ascent to Peak Oktyabrsky via the western edge, accomplished by the combined team of CSKA. Dedicated to the 30th anniversary of the ascent by the Red Army team to Peak Lenin in 1934. The Trans-Alai Range, discovered in 1871 by the renowned explorer of Central Asia, A.P. Fedchenko, is one of the highest mountain ranges in the Pamir region. The highest part of the range is located in its center and forms a chain of peaks: Peak Lenin – 7134 m, Peak 6852 m, Peak Dzerzhinsky, Peak Kyzyl-Agyn, Peak Edinstva, and others. Peak Lenin is the third highest peak in the Soviet Union, the most popular "seven-thousander," and a high-altitude mountaineering stadium of the country. To the east of Peak Lenin, the Trans-Alai Range turns south and, in the area of Peak Edinstva, divides into two. The main range continues eastward, and a powerful, long Zulumart range with its highest point, Peak Oktyabrsky (6780 m), branches off to the south. The chain of peaks from Peak Oktyabrsky to Krylenko Pass was named "Mountains of Barricades" by N.V. Krylenko in 1928, which now includes: Oktyabrsky Peaks, Peak Edinstva, Peak 6350 m, and Peak 6104 m. Peak Oktyabrsky is a massif with three peaks: the South Peak, with an elevation of about 6750 m (this is the peak visible from the Kara-Jilgа valley), the Main Peak with an elevation of 6780 m, and the North Peak with an elevation of about 2270 m. The elevation differences between the peaks reach 100–120 meters. From Krylenko Pass to the south descends the powerful B. Sauk-Dara glacier, which is framed by steep slopes and walls of the surrounding peaks.

I. Climbing category — altitude-technical (traverse) 2. Climbing area (№ according to KTMGV) — 4 3. Peak, its height and climbing route — traverse of p. V. Slutskoy (5910 m) — p. "Trud" (5800 m) 4. Estimated difficulty category — 5B 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1710 m average steepness — on p. V. Slutskoy 50°, on p. "Trud" 55°; length of sections: I — m; II — 590 m; III — 800 m; IV — 1480 m; V — 360 m; VI — m 6. Pitons hammered: for belaying: rock — 48, ice — 57, bolt — —; for creating and etc.: — 7. Number of walking hours — 43 h 8. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics — 4 overnight stays in a tent on convenient sites

KIRGHIZ SSR SPORTS SOCIETIES AND ORGANIZATIONS COUNCIL. KIRGHIZ SSR ALPINISM FEDERATION. All-Union 1964 best ascent competition (traverse class).

Report

on traversing the peaks: 5737 m — Vera Slutskaya (5910 m) by the Kirghiz Respouzsport team. Pamir. Zulumart ridge. from July 29 to August 4, 1964. Frunze. Vera Slutskaya Peak (5910 m) is located in the Pamir (in the Zulumart ridge). (Orographic diagram fig. 1). A spur extends from Vera Slutskaya Peak to the southeast, where the 5737 m peak is located (in the USSR peak classification, the latter is listed as peak 5800 m "Trud"). Both peaks form a single (in sporting terms) massif. There are two unnamed peaks in the ridge between the "5737 m" and Vera Slutskaya peaks.

• Photo No. 1 — general view of the 5737 m — Vera Slutskaya peaks;
• Photo No. 2 — Vera Slutskaya and fig. No. 2 — schematic profile of the route. The massif is located at the turn of the Baygashke river valley and is clearly visible from the Kara-Jilga river valley at the confluence of the Kok-Sai and Baygashke rivers. The peaks of the Zulum-Art and Komunarov ridges are of the alpine type. They form a fairly large basin of the Volodarsky glacier and its components, from where the Baygashke river originates. Most of the five-thousander peaks in this region remain unconquered, apparently due to the fact that expeditions choose:

The primacy of the SDSO "Burevestnik" in the class of high-altitude technically complex ascents. Peak 5435 is located in the Zuluum-Art ridge in the Pamir Mountains. From Peak 5435, a spur runs south, dropping off to the east with a wall. A map of the area is shown in Fig. 1. The sheer eastern wall of Peak 5435 is clearly visible from the Baygashki river valley. The view of the wall from the glacier flowing from the slopes of Peak V. Slutskaya is shown in Photo 1. In its middle part, the wall is fairly simple and gentle, but traversing the wall along this section is not advisable due to frequent rockfalls, making this route extremely hazardous. The right part of the wall is a monolith, gently sloping at the bottom and even slightly overhanging at the top. The left part of the wall consists of three separate rises. The two lower ones are clearly visible in Photo 1. The overall height of the wall is 450–500 m. After the wall, a fairly gentle, long ridge leads to Peak 5435. The summit itself is snowy.

Group Composition

1. Drabkin I.A. Leningrad M-212, Budapeshtskaya ul., d. 23, korp. 2, kv. 17. 1st sports category, leader.
2. Danilov A.K. Leningrad, K-17, Zabaykalskaya ul., d. 4, kv. 63.

Ascent via the Eastern ridge from the Oktyabrsky glacier. Descent to the Profsoyuzov Pass. Cat. 4A

Day 1

Departure at 10:00 from the base camp, located at an altitude of 4200 m under the tongue of the Oktyabrsky glacier, on the right (orographic) side of the valley. The path leads along the right side of the Oktyabrsky glacier, first along the lateral moraine, then along the right bank of the Kok-Sai River. Shortly before the glacier, which flows from the Profsoyuzov Pass, one must ascend to the right lateral moraine and reach the glacier along it. The tongue of the glacier, descending from the Profsoyuzov Pass, must be crossed in a rope team with simultaneous belay. The same path is used to cross two more glaciers, which descend from the Zulumart ridge towards the Oktyabrsky glacier. The glaciers are covered with soggy snow and have many hidden crevasses. Under the eastern ridge of peak "6146" on the moraine is a suitable place for a bivouac.

Kirpich Peak — 3800 m

Ascent route from the west via the snowy "necktie" 3A cat. diff. From the "Uzunkol" camp, follow the right bank of the Mordy River to the beginning of the Mordy glacier moraine - from here, follow the trail along the grassy slopes to a large green terrace. The bivouac site - "Mordy overnight stay" - is 3-3.5 hours from the camp. From the overnight stay, head right-up along the trail to the Mordy glacier plateau. Cross the plateau and approach the snowy slopes of the "necktie". It takes 45-50 minutes from the bivouac. From here, ascend the snowy slope to the 1st rocky island (in rope teams!). Bypass the island from either side, then ascend to the next black rocky island. Bypass it on the right via a snowy bridge over the bergschrund (Belay!). Ascend the snowy slope to a long rocky island. Climb the rocks to its upper part and again transition to a steep snow slope (45° Belay!). Follow the snow slope to a rocky wall located above - to the right of a small spur of a rocky ridge. Crossing the snowy slope to the wall takes 2.5-3 hours. Along the rocky wall (60°) traverse left to a small ledge - 50-55 m (Belay! Pitons!). From here, 40 m right-up (pitons!) and 40 m left slightly up to the base of a rocky chute. Follow the chute (Piton! 30 m) to its exit and then along easy rocks to the end of the wall - 3 ropes. Above the wall is a platform - here is a control point. From the platform, follow simple rocks and small snowfields to reach the snowy ridge. It takes 3-3.5 hours from the start of the rocky wall to reach the ridge. Follow the snowy ridge to the summit - 40-50 minutes. The descent from the summit via route 1B to the Dalar pass and return to "Mordy overnight stay" takes 3-4 hours. Departure time from the bivouac should be no later than 4:00 am.