The ascent of Peak Volodarsky (5567 m), Baigashka region, was made by a group working as part of the High-Altitude Pamir Expedition of Leningrad State University in 1968. The goal of the expedition was to traverse p. Trud — p. V. Slutskaya; among the acclimatization exits was an exit to the area of l. Volodarsky.
From l. Volodarsky, ascents are possible to:
- p. Uritsky,
- p. Frunze,
- p. "5757",
- p. Volodarsky.
Mostly, these routes are undoubtedly routes of the highest category of difficulty, however, on p. Volodarsky, an ascent along the northern ridge is possible, which is simpler. The route is combined — a 300 m rocky edge is of certain technical interest, and the further path along the ridge gives an idea of the nature of snow at high altitudes in this region. The ascent was made by a group consisting of:
| Shumilov O. I. (leader) | 1st sports category |
|---|---|
| Logachev Yu. A. | 1st sports category |
| Drabkin I. A. | 1st sports category |
| Katskov D. A. | 1st sports category |
| Simonov A. S. | 2nd sports category |
| Stepanov I. V. | 2nd sports category |
in the period July 7 — 9, 1968. Below is a detailed description of the route.
Route description:
To the base camp — from Osh by car along the Pamir highway to km 245, crossing the Markan-Su river, up the Kara-Jilga river to the confluence of the Baigashka river and up the Baigashka river to the ridge descending from the middle of the ridge p. Trud — p. V. Slutskaya. The base camp is approximately at an altitude of 4300 m.
From the base camp up the Baigashka river. After 5–2 sq. km, you can switch to a thick layer of ice covering the river, as movement along the main slopes in the absence of a trail is difficult.
Along the ice cover to the Volodarsky glacier. The entrance to the glacier is bypassing the tongue on the right along the river moraine and further along the open glacier, moderately broken, moving to p. "5740".
Here is an overnight stay — 6 hours from the base camp.
From the overnight stay, up to the left along the gently sloping closed glacier in the direction of p. Volodarsky. The snow is quite loose, however, in some places a strong crust is formed (around 12 hours the crust is already melting). Crossing several steps of the plateau, we approach the base of the northern ridge of p. Volodarsky. From the overnight stay — 4 hours.