KIRGHIZ SSR SPORTS SOCIETIES AND ORGANIZATIONS COUNCIL.

KIRGHIZ SSR ALPINISM FEDERATION.

All-Union 1964 best ascent competition (traverse class).

Report

on traversing the peaks: 5737 m — Vera Slutskaya (5910 m) by the Kirghiz Respouzsport team. Pamir. Zulumart ridge. from July 29 to August 4, 1964. Frunze.

Vera Slutskaya Peak (5910 m) is located in the Pamir (in the Zulumart ridge). (Orographic diagram fig. 1). A spur extends from Vera Slutskaya Peak to the southeast, where the 5737 m peak is located (in the USSR peak classification, the latter is listed as peak 5800 m "Trud"). Both peaks form a single (in sporting terms) massif. There are two unnamed peaks in the ridge between the "5737 m" and Vera Slutskaya peaks.

• Photo No. 1 — general view of the 5737 m — Vera Slutskaya peaks;
• Photo No. 2 — Vera Slutskaya and fig. No. 2 — schematic profile of the route.

The massif is located at the turn of the Baygashke river valley and is clearly visible from the Kara-Jilga river valley at the confluence of the Kok-Sai and Baygashke rivers.

The peaks of the Zulum-Art and Komunarov ridges are of the alpine type. They form a fairly large basin of the Volodarsky glacier and its components, from where the Baygashke river originates. Most of the five-thousander peaks in this region remain unconquered, apparently due to the fact that expeditions choose:

• Lenin Peak;
• other peaks of the Trans-Alai ridge.

In the Volodarsky glacier basin are located:

• Volodarsky Peak 5567 m;
• Uritsky Peak 5847 m (photo No. 3).

The 5730 m peak is particularly impressive (photo No. 4), the approaches to which are very short, and the routes along any ridge are undoubtedly category 5.

In the upper reaches of the southwestern branch of the glacier is still unsubdued Frunze Peak 5790 m and a number of other peaks not inferior in complexity. The traverse route of the "5737" — Vera Slutskaya peaks is classified as 5B category. Due to the unforeseen replacement of objects for the USSR championship, we did not have information about the first ascenders and route description before reaching the route.

Only after passing the gendarme before the "5737" peak, we learned from a note in the cairn that the route was passed by a team from the Moscow City Council of the "Trud" Sports Society consisting of 6 people led by Master of Sports B.T. Romanov:

• Volkov;
• Bezlyudny;
• Onishchenko;
• Romanov V.I.;
• Cheremisynov,

in August 1960.

However, we retrieved only two notes: one from the gendarme, the other from the "5737" peak. The last trace of B. Romanov's group (a wrapper from butter cookies) was found by us at the point where the spur leading to the 5737 peak branches off from the Zulumart ridge, i.e., on the ridge before Vera Slutskaya Peak.

We did not find any traces of climbers on the peak and beyond.

At our request, the head of the Tajik expedition geological party, I.V. Pyatyikhov (Pyatykhinov according to OCR), working in the area of the traverse object, gave a geological description of the massif:

• The southwestern slopes of the "5737" peak, where the route begins, are covered in their lower part with modern colluvial deposits consisting of fragments of various sizes of intrusive rocks, among which light-gray and gray biotite-hornblende granites predominate.
• The latter form the 5737 m peak and a significant part of the ridge leading to Vera Slutskaya Peak.

The granites break through with a hot contact outcrops to the east of sedimentary deposits of the Upper Permian, represented by black limestones and clay-limestone schists and siltstones. In the contact zone, the limestones undergo strong recrystallization and are turned into coarse-grained, crumbling marbleized limestones in places.

The schists turn into phyllites and rarely into mica schists. The described altered rocks extend along the strike to the northwest to Vera Slutskaya Peak, where they participate in its composition. Such different geological structure along the route determines the different character of the relief in the described area.

Thus, the granites form a ridge with large western and eastern slopes, almost vertically breaking off into the glacial cirques. The ridge composed of granites is abundant in rock "gendarms". The schists and limestones forming Vera Slutskaya Peak form fairly large slopes turning into sheer faces to the west and east, and movement along them is extremely difficult due to the rocks being altered and weathered into rubble in places.

The northern and northeastern slopes of Vera Slutskaya Peak are covered with firn and ice, from under which light limestones, gray schists, sandstones, and conglomerates of the Lower Permian protrude in places.

(The text of the geological description is given in full according to the original).

The Kirghiz Respouzспорт alpine expedition was based at the tongue of the Oktyabrsky glacier, together with the expeditions of the Armed Forces of the USSR and the Turk.V.O. and the "Burevestnik" climbers from Tomsk. This was due to the need for interaction. The path to the foot of the "5737" — Vera Slutskaya peaks from Osh leads along the Osh — Korgot road to the 249th km, from where there is a turn onto an already trodden road (traces of cars) through the Markan-Su desert to the Kara-Jilga river valley.

If you do not turn into the Kok-Sai valley to the Oktyabrsky glacier, but drive straight, then along the Baygashke river bed you can reach the very foot of Vera Slutskaya Peak by car (approximately 4-5 km from the tongue of the Volodarsky glacier).

In 1964, cars drove along the Baygashke river for the first time.

The climate of the region is characterized by:

• extreme dryness of the air (humidity 30-40%, sometimes drops to 15-20%);
• significant diurnal temperature fluctuations;
• prevailing winds of southwestern and western directions.

If we take the average daily air temperature of the Kara-Kul settlement (3900 m) as a basis, then:

• the average maximum temperature in July at 1:00 p.m. reaches +13.7 °C;
• on some days, squally winds with speeds of 15 or more meters per second with snow are observed;
• cloud cover is mostly insignificant;
• precipitation is very low (in Kara-Kul in July — 4 mm, in August — 2 mm).

(Data on temperature, precipitation, and air humidity are taken from the brochure by V.I. Ratsek "Lenin Peak", Tashkent, 1960).

In the area of the Oktyabrsky glacier tongue, strong winds start to blow every day in the second half of the day, blowing from above and raising dust.

During the expedition period from July 24 to August 18, bad weather was observed only on July 24 and directly during the traverse of the "5737" — Vera Slutskaya peaks from the second half of the day on July 31, 1, 2 until the morning of August 3. Strong winds, snowfall, fog.

Characteristic of organizing ascents in this region are:

• the location of the base camp at an absolute height of 4000-4100 m;
• a large relative height difference with the objects of ascent;
• prolonged stay at heights close to 6000 m;
• performing technically complex work at high absolute heights.

All this requires climbers to have:

• excellent acclimatization;
• coordinated work;
• friendly relations among themselves;
• interchangeability when passing complex sections of the route.

III.

The Kirghiz Respouzспорт team conducted a 20-day training camp at the "Ala-Archa" alpine camp before arriving at the Pamir, where training sessions were held on:

• rock climbing techniques;
• ice climbing techniques;
• techniques for arresting falling weights on rocks (equal to the weight of a climber with a backpack — approximately 80-90 kg) with lower belay.

Training ascents were made on the peaks:

• "Boks" 2A category;
• Teke-Tor — 4A category;
• Ak-Toо — 4B category;
• traverse of Semenov-Tian-Shansky Peak — Skryabin — 4B category.

At the end of the training camp:

• we went to the Prjevalsk region;
• made a traverse of the Kara-Kol peak 5280 m — 5A category in the Terskey Alatau ridge.

Having sufficient acclimatization and training, there was no need to extend the pre-ascent work period. According to the coaching council's decision on July 24, 1964, the following work plan was established:

• July 24 — setting up the base camp.
• July 25 — departure to the Baygashke river valley to scout the route for traversing the 5737 m — Vera Slutskaya peaks.
• July 26 — departure to the Profsoyuzov pass (5300 m) to stock up on supplies for the ascent to Lenin Peak and return to the base camp.
• July 27 — rest day.
• July 28 — preparation day for the traverse route departure.
• July 29 — departure to the start of the route through the Baygashke river valley.

After the reconnaissance departure to the Baygashke river valley on July 25 with the full expedition team, we concluded that we did not need to make additional departures to stock up on supplies and even less for acclimatization.

According to the plan (see the route sheet), we planned to complete the traverse from July 29 to August 4. The actual work on the route introduced some adjustments to the location of overnight stays and the sections covered per day, but the total number of days for the traverse coincided with the plan.

Before the start of the expedition, we were not aware that any expedition member could participate in ascents for the USSR championship, so when D. Smirnov fell ill, we had to continue the route with a team of 7 people. Although the expedition included strong first-category climbers:

• U. Sapalov;
• E. Streletsov;
• A. Romanova;
• A. Glukhovskaya.

This created known difficulties when working with a single rope team of 3 people. (More details about Smirnov's illness are in the ascent review protocol).

IV.

During the traverse, we did not apply any particular tactical innovations.

With the necessary amount of food for 7 days (which could be distributed over 10 days), the necessary amount of aviation gasoline, one "Febus" primus stove and one Pavlograd stove, down and windproof suits, woolen underwear, we expected to withstand any bad weather conditions.

Therefore, the working day on the route did not exceed 10 hours, except for August 3, when movement continued even in bad weather conditions, which lasted from the middle of the day on July 31 to the morning of August 3.

Untested equipment was not used. The group had the following equipment:

• the necessary number of standard rock and ice pitons;
• a tested drill and a dozen drill pitons (which were not used);
• duralumin wedges;
• ropes: main 12 mm — 3 × 40 m, 9 mm — 1 × 40 m;
• one hammer;
• 4 ice axes;
• 3 ice picks;
• 20 carabiners;
• other equipment.

Years of teamwork and knowledge of each participant's personal qualities allow for the most advantageous distribution of forces for the group. This was expressed in:

• changing leaders on different sections of the route;
• mutual assistance.

On the route, when necessary, not only rope teams but also participants within the teams changed places without compromising safety. The group's work atmosphere was characterized by attentive, friendly relations among each other, and the avoidance of harsh expressions in conversation. All this allowed for the creation of normal conditions for the group's work.

The Kirghiz Republican Sports Union submitted the following team composition for the traverse class:

1. Romanov A.V. MS — coach — leader.
2. Lengnik O.M. MS — deputy leader.
3. Straikov A.A. MS.
4. Kovalev V.A. MS.
5. Akhsan G.Z. — 1st sp. category.
6. Balinsky A.P. — 1st sp. category.
7. Litvinov V.F. — 1st sp. category.
8. Smirnov D.N. — 1st sp. category.
9. Eropunov A.N. — 1st sp. category.
10. Borisov V.I. — 1st sp. category.
11. Buryak V.A. — 1st sp. category.
12. Reserve participant — Tishchenko V.S. — 1st sp. category.

9 people departed for the ascent area from the submitted team.

On April 9, the day the application was sent to Moscow, Master of Sports, cameraman of the Frunze TV studio, Alexei Straikov, tragically died in Frunze.

Due to work commitments, engineers Litvinov V.F. and Buryak V.A. did not participate in the expedition. Master of Sports V. Kovalev was not included in the team departing for the traverse due to:

• lack of training ascents;
• work commitments.

He was at the base camp as an observer.

As already mentioned, after a two-hour walk from the geologists' camp, D. Smirnov felt unwell and was immediately sent down, and the group continued on its way with 7 people:

1. Romanov A.V. — MS — leader "Burevestnik" Frunze.
2. Lengnik O.M. MS — deputy leader "Alga" Frunze-33.
3. Eropunov A.A. — 1st sp. category — participant "Burevestnik" Osh.
4. Akhsan G.Z. — 1st sp. category — "Spartak" Osh.
5. Balinsky A.P. — 1st sp. category — "Spartak" Osh.
6. Borisov G.I. — 1st sp. category — "Alga" Frunze.
7. Tishchenko V.S. — 1st sp. category — "Spartak" Frunze.

The actual passage of the traverse route (see the profile diagram of the route fig. 2 and photo No. 1).

• July 29. Base camp at the Oktyabrsky glacier tongue — Baygashke river valley — overnight stay at the foot of Vera Slutskaya Peak (geologists' camp), by car 26 km.
• July 30. Geologists' camp — SE ridge of the 5737 m peak. Overnight stay on the SE ridge at an altitude of 5100 m. For the day 10 hours.
• July 31. Camp 5100 m — passage along the SE ridge to the 5737 m peak, 5737 m peak, descent to the saddle — overnight stay at 5530 m. For the day 9 hours.
• August 1. Unnamed peaks 5600 m and 5650 m. Overnight stay on the 5650 m peak. For the day 10 hours.
• August 2. 5650 m peak — ridge failure, SE ridge of Vera Slutskaya Peak. Overnight stay at the junction of the Zulumart ridge with the spur at an altitude of 5660 m. For the day 10 hours.
• August 3. Departure to the Zulumart ridge, saddle — SE subpeak — Vera Slutskaya Peak 5910 m — descent along the SE ridge — 5500 m. Overnight stay at 5500 m. For the day 16 hours.
• August 4. Descent to an unnamed pass, descent along the glacier to the geologists' camp. Return to the base camp at the Oktyabrsky glacier tongue by car. For the day — 8 hours.

Table of main characteristics of the traverse route.

Traverse route: 5737 m peak — Vera Slutskaya Peak. Height difference along the route:

• Total height difference from the initial camp 4200 m (geologists' camp) to the highest point of the traverse — Vera Slutskaya Peak — 1710 m.

Height difference of the most difficult sections:

a) Overnight stay — 5737 m peak (ascent) — 637 m; b) 5737 m peak — 5500 m saddle (descent) — 237 m; c) 5500 m saddle — first Unnamed peak 5600 m (ascent) — 100 m. d) First Unnamed peak — 5200 m saddle between the 1st and 2nd Unnamed peaks (descent) — 400 m. e) 5200 m saddle — 2nd Unnamed peak 5650 m (ascent) — 450 m. f) 2nd Unnamed peak 5650 m — 5500 m saddle before the gendarme at the start of Vera Slutskaya Peak's ridge (descent) — 150 m. g) 5500 m saddle — Vera Slutskaya Peak 5910 m (ascent) — 410 m. h) Vera Slutskaya Peak 5910 m — Unnamed pass 4900 m (descent) — 1010 m.

The sum of height differences along the traverse route at an altitude above 5000 m (the most difficult sections) is:

• ascents: 1597 m;
• descents: 1797 m.

NOTE: 1) The excess of descent height difference over ascents is explained by the greater depth of the complex descent path from Vera Slutskaya Peak to the Unnamed pass. 2) The steepness of the route, including the most difficult sections, is given below when describing the sections of the traverse.

July 30. R0–R1 from the geologists' camp (photo No. 5) along the Baygashke river valley — 1 hour (photo No. 6).

Average steepness of the section 40–45°, height difference 600 m. Ascent along mostly settled scree, with occasional simple rock ridges. Movement is simultaneous, without ropes.

• From the bivouac (geologists' camp) 1 hour — a small ascent along the Baygashke river.
• Then 2 hours — ascent to the scree shoulder of the SE ridge of the 5737 m peak.

R1–R2. Scree slope interspersed with snowfields and micro-glaciers. In places, outcrops of large rock fragments. Average steepness 40–45°, height difference — 300 m. The section presents no technical difficulty, movement is simultaneous without ropes (photo No. 7).

On this day, the group left the geologists' camp at 6:00 a.m. and reached the ridge at the overnight stay location at 5100 m by 4:00 p.m. (A. Romanov and A. Balinsky accompanied the sick D. Smirnov for 2 hours). The bivouac site is at the beginning of the rocks of the gendarme on the SE ridge of the 5737 m peak (photos No. 9 and 10).

July 31

Section 3. From the bivouac site to the gendarme on the ridge, the path first leads along a large scree with snowfields (more like small glaciers) at a steepness of 40–45°. Scree and snowfields are about 100 m high. Further — monolithic granite rocks of the ridge leading to the gendarme (photo No. 12). Rocks are of medium difficulty, occasionally covered with rime ice.

After passing a wide internal angle 60 m long (photo No. 13) with a steepness of 60° — exit to the gendarme's shoulder along smooth, monolithic rocks with few holds (25–30 m). Further 100 m: first along a simple ridge, then along a 45-degree average scree to the top of the gendarme.

At the top of the gendarme is a cairn built by B. Romanov's group in 1960 (photo No. 11).

2 rock pitons were hammered in on this section. Belay was mostly through rock outcrops. Time spent on the 3rd section — 3 hours.

Descent from the gendarme to the depression behind it — 30 m along the scree.

Section 4.

This section is technically complex and, due to the overhanging ice-snow cornices, is dangerous. Photo No. 14 shows the entire 4th section, and photo No. 15 shows the continuation of the ridge to the 5737 m peak. On photos No. 14, 15, 16, the same rock is marked with crosses, photographed from different points. On photo No. 16 — from a distance of 500 m. Bypassing is not possible.

On photo No. 14, section 4"a" — "b". Ascent along a sheer monolithic granite rock with a recess 20 m. Two rock pitons. Belay through pitons and outcrops.

An additional representation of the section and the technique of its passage is given by photos No. 17, 18, 19.

On section "a" — "b", there was a piton left by B. Romanov's group in 1960. On this section, backpacks were pulled up by a rope to the internal angle, where two people could stand simultaneously.

Section R4–R5 — a slab with a steepness of 70° with a crack. An ice-snow cornice overhangs from above, which had to be hacked through. Photo No. 20 gives an idea of passing this section. The length of this section is 20 m.

Belay:

• 3 rock pitons;
• 1 ice piton hammered into a rock crack.

Section R5–R6 (photo No. 14):

• First 15 m — a gentle terrace 2 m wide with scree fragments.
• Then 10 m — a narrow shelf.

Belay — through rock outcrops.

Section 4–g–d (photo No. 14):

• Internal angle 15 m.
• Rocks are sheer, with a good selection of holds.
• Many "live" boulders.
• Judging by the fresh fragments, there was a recent rockfall here.

Exit to the left behind the gendarme marked with a cross, along slabs where fragments form a "live" cone, dangerous to pass (5 m).

The time spent on passing section 4 and pulling up backpacks was 4 hours. 6 pitons were hammered in.

Section 5.

The ridge, about 400 m long, leads to the 5737 m peak. The rocks of the ridge are of medium difficulty with cornices hanging to the northeast. On photo No. 15, section 5 is captured from a large gendarme. Passing this section takes 30 minutes. On the 5737 m peak, there is a second note in the cairn left by B. Romanov's group in 1960. Belay on the section is through rock outcrops.

NOTE: From the "5737 m" peak, there is a view of:

• Communism Peak;
• Lenin Peak;
• Kyzyl-Agyn Peak;
• other peaks where our comrade Alexei Straikov was.

Considering that B. Romanov's group conditionally named the peak "Trud" and the name is not geographical, our group decided to petition the Presidium of the Supreme Council of the Tajik SSR to name the "5737 m" peak after Master of Sports, cameraman Alexei Straikov.

Section 6.

Descent from the 5737 m peak:

• First, along a 60-degree ice slope covered with a 10 cm layer of snow, using the "sports method".
• A piton was hammered into the summit tower, and a loop was hung.
• 40 m to the rock outcrops and another 40 m to the gendarme's saddle (photo No. 22).
• Then, bypassing the gendarme — descent along rime ice along the rocks (the ice is covered with freshly fallen snow) — 100 m.
• The lower rock gendarme in image No. 22 is bypassed on the descent from the left along the way — 40 m.
• At the point marked with a cross on photo No. 22 — III overnight stay.

During the descent from the 5737 m peak, bad weather began — snowfall, strong wind, fog. On photo No. 23 — setting up a bivouac under the gendarme on the ice. 5 rock pitons were hammered in during the descent from the "5737 m" peak. Descent time — 1 hour 30 minutes. Descent on crampons.

July 31 day summary

• Working time — 9 hours.
• Pitons hammered in — 13.
• Overnight stay conditions: strong wind, snowfall. Tents were set up on platforms cut out under a rock in the rime ice. This was necessitated by the need for protection from the almost hurricane-force wind. (On all overnight stays, starting from the 2nd and ending with the 6th, water was obtained from snow).
• Overnight stay altitude 5500 m.

August 1

Section 7.

From the III overnight stay location, descent 30 m to the saddle simultaneously. The saddle is wide, up to 50 m. From the saddle, ascent to the rock barrier at the start of the 5600 m peak's ridge. The rock is monolithic.

First, along rock boulders embedded in the ice — 20 m, then along a crack to a narrow shelf — 6 m (one piton) (photo No. 24). Along the foot to the right 12 m and then straight up along a chimney-like internal angle with icy walls 10 m. Belay through solid rock outcrops. Exit to the ridge. Gendarmes on the ridge are bypassed from the left. (Note: on photo No. 24, taken from the 5737 m peak, the steepness of the western slope (left) is not emphasized, the overall steepness of which is about 55°, and individual sections along the ridge are sheer). After exiting to the first large gendarme of the 5600 m peak, the ridge widens. Movement is simultaneous; belay through outcrops. From the highest point of 5600 m begins a long and dangerous descent along the ridge with cornices into the failure — the lowest point of the traverse.

Section 8.

From the highest point of the 5600 m peak, the ridge with cornices initially gently, then more steeply descends to the failure. Small gendarmes, up to 10–15 m, are passed "head-on" with alternate belay.

After 200 m along the ridge, a steeper descent begins to a large gendarme, externally resembling a quadrangular tower. The descent took place in bad weather conditions (snow, wind). (Photos No. 25 and 26).

Features of the passage:

• individual sections of the descent are not photographed due to bad weather and the danger arising from strong winds on a narrow ridge with cornices;
• the most complex section of the descent is marked by a line parallel to the ridge on photo No. 26.

The impossibility of using a rope descent due to the jaggedness of the ridge forced the team to descend by climbing with belay through the ridge.

From the "Quadrangular Gendarme" (marked with an arrow) on photos No. 26, 25, descent three ropes of 40 m each using the "sports" method, after which there is a simultaneous exit to the saddle — the failure. On the saddle, there is a huge stone under which one can take shelter from bad weather.

Section 9.

From the failure, ascent 40 m along destroyed rocks behind the gendarme. Alternate belay through outcrops, from here crossing a snow-ice slope (movement in crampons) 80 m under the rocks, to the left of the ridge. On photo No. 27, the path of exit to the 5650 m peak is marked.

First, along 40–50-degree snow slopes, they bypass sheer rocks on the left in the direction of a 40–45-degree western rock slope (400 m), consisting of monolithic slabs that break off to the west with sheer faces. Movement up the slabs with a traverse 120 m. Belay is difficult due to the lack of outcrops and cracks.

The ridge of the 5650 m peak after exiting onto it is very wide and gentle (see photo No. 26 — the place from which the image is taken, and photos No. 29–30, taken from the IV overnight stay site on the 5650 m peak).

On images No. 29 and 30, taken towards Vera Slutskaya Peak, the gentle ridge of the 5650 m peak overlaps the oval limestone gendarmes of the ridge leading to the junction with the Zulumart ridge, making it impossible to see sections R10–R11–R12–R13 on the image.

August 1 summary

• Working time — 10 hours.
• Pitons hammered in — 1.
• Overnight stay conditions: wide safe ridge, strong wind, snowfall. Platforms for tents were cut out and laid out in freezing small scree with ice.

NOTE: Bad weather started from 12:00 to 13:00 and continued until 6:00–7:00. Strong winds persisted. The altitude of the overnight stay location is 5620 m.

August 2, 1964

Section R10.

From the overnight stay site, ascent to the ridge and crossing a snow couloir bypassing a small gendarme. On photo No. 31, taken from the 5650 m peak, the character of the ridge is visible (in the foreground). Movement takes 30 minutes.

Section R11.

This section could have been passed by organizing 2 descents of 40 m each: along the steps — sheer faces leading to the saddle before the "Crystal" gendarme. However, the lack of cracks for hammering in pitons, outcrops for securing a loop, and a very inconvenient relay platform forced us to look for another descent path.

Descending along the edge of a steep drop to the west along a 30-degree snow slope — 120 m, a descent into a couloir was found slightly below the ridge.

From a rock outcrop, descent along a 75-degree ice (snow-covered) slope between rock outcrops 40 m (photo No. 32). Further descent another 10 m and crossing a snow-ice couloir with a steepness of 50° to destroyed rocks covered with scree. 80 m up these rocks to the saddle before the "Crystal" gendarme.

The gendarme is a monolithic granite boulder with clear edges. The gendarme is bypassed on the left, first two ropes of 40 m along the ice slope, then 30 m along rocks of medium difficulty and a narrow ice couloir 60 m to the ridge behind the gendarme. Belay — 2 ice and 3 rock pitons, outcrops. (Photo No. 33, section 12).

From the ridge along a 20-meter sheer wall, a diagonal shelf, then to the left along a 45-degree section 25 m, and exit to a rock terrace with a 30° slope, strewn with scree fragments, partially snow-covered. 15 m. Exit to this section — on photos No. 34 and 35. On photo No. 35, the descent section to the saddle before the "Crystal" gendarme is visible.

After the terrace — an 8-meter wall without holds. Passage with the hanging of two three-step ladders. Hammered in: three rock pitons.

After the wall (on photo No. 34, it is located below the number 12), gendarmes are bypassed on the left along shelves.

Section R13.

From the ridge to the left, a snowfield with a 50° steepness is crossed — 50 m; a rock rib is traversed — 20 m. After that, along monolithic boulders embedded in the ice — exit under the base of the rock rib leading back to the ridge. Ascent along heavily destroyed, icy rocks with a 70° steepness — one rope — 40 m — leads to fairly gentle rocks formed by limestones before two oval gendarmes.

Section R14.

From the ridge — crossing two rock ribs to the left and exit to a wide snow slope. Crossing it — 2 ropes of 40 m each — and exit under the rocks of the 1st oval gendarme. Due to snowfall, strong winds, and the need to stop for the night, further descent was made under the 2nd oval gendarme. On photo No. 30, this path is marked, although the photo does not convey the steepness of the slopes. Under the 2nd oval gendarme, an overnight stay was arranged under нависающими скалами on snow. Photo No. 36.

August 2 summary

• Working time — 10 hours.
• Pitons hammered in — ice 2, rock — 6.
• Overnight stay conditions — narrow snow platform trodden on a steep 50-degree snow slope under an overhanging rock protecting from snowfall.

August 3, 1964

Section R15.

From the overnight stay site (photo No. 36), a rock corner is bypassed; two couloirs and two rock counterforts are crossed. Belay through rock outcrops — 120 m.

Further (on image No. 36, tents are photographed against the background of the axial Zulumart ridge), the path, bypassing the rock corner — exit into a steep couloir sandwiched between ice slopes with overhanging cornices of the Zulumart ridge and rocks of the second oval gendarme. Exit straight up along 55-degree polished ice 40 m under an ice cornice with hacking through it. 6 ice pitons hammered in. Further to the subpeak of Vera Slutskaya Peak along a dome-shaped, gradually flattening slope to the ridge (photos No. 37 and 38). Movement is simultaneous. The oval gendarmes break off to the northeast with walls and cornices. On photo No. 39, a snapshot of Vera Slutskaya Peak is taken from the 2nd "oval" gendarme, which is a knot in the Zulumart ridge, and from which a spur leads to the "5737 m" peak. On this gendarme, the last trace of B. Romanov's group was found — a wrapper from butter cookies. Further — passage through a small gendarme with cornices and exit to the saddle before the start of the subpeak ridge of Vera Slutskaya Peak.

Section R16.

From the saddle, a traverse with a slight descent along a shelf with exit to the western ridge of the first gendarme. Ascent along this ridge. Movement in crampons along crumbling limestones and schists; it is impossible to hammer in supports, all boulders crumble.

An attempt to ascend the first gendarme was unsuccessful due to the impossibility of organizing a belay point. It was possible to cross the ridge crest with a jagged edge and accept the second participant — 40 m.

Again, exit through the ridge crest and further along a steep 55-degree rock, crumbling slope — ascent to two rocks (photo No. 40). From the saddle to these rocks — 80 m. Further:

• 120 m ascent in crampons along a 45-degree rock slope;
• exit to the ridge under the subpeak tower with cornices (photo No. 40).

On photos No. 41 and 42, moments of exit to Vera Slutskaya Peak are captured. This is one of the most dangerous sections of the traverse. Huge boulders crumble at the touch; movement along rocks is only possible in crampons. The first participant managed to bypass the summit tower on the left, using large relief features for belay (even an ice cornice). After exiting to the summit, the rest ascended using the "sports method".

The summit is a sharp peak with two elevations 1 m apart. 2-3 people can stand on the summit simultaneously, so an immediate descent was set up through the highest point. No traces of climbers were found on the summit. A small cairn was built, and a note was left (on image No. 42, Vera Slutskaya Peak's summit from the south).

Section R17.

Descent from the summit along the edge of cliffs breaking off sheer to the west and huge cornices overhanging to the east.

• The first stage is