REPORT

ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT 4971 VIA THE SOUTHWEST RIDGE (SOUTHWEST PAMIR, NORTH SHUGNAN RANGE) BY THE VARZOB ALPINIST CLUB TEAM CONSISTING OF:

• TRONOV Yu.N. — TEAM LEADER
• BELINSKY S.F. — MEMBER
• MISHCHENKO E.A. — MEMBER
• STEFANOVICH A.V. — MEMBER Pamir-1978. TABLE OF MAIN CHARACTERISTICS OF THE ASCENT ROUTE TO PEAK 4971 VIA THE SW RIDGE EXPLANATION TO THE TABLE № (Description of the ascent route to peak 4971) From the bivouac near the rocks, the snow-ice cirque between the Southwest ridge and the Northwest edge is clearly visible.

Ascent Passport

Appr. No. 13 dated April 13, 2007 6B cat. diff. In one hike 6.1.67 1. Region — Eastern Sayan Mountains, Tunkin Goltsy mountain range, Berun-Khandagai valley, 6.1. 2. Peak — Dome 2955 m, via plumb lines on the North face of the East shoulder. 3. Proposed 6B cat. diff., first ascent. Route type — rock. 4. Elevation difference: total route — 664 m, wall section — 474 m; length: total route — 1051 m, wall section — 511 m; section lengths: VI cat. diff. — 326 m, V cat. diff. — 80 m; average steepness of the wall route section — 86°. 5. Pitons left: total — 39, incl. drilled — 32; used: chocks — 86/51, rock pitons — 59/40, drilled pitons — 57/49, incl. removable — 25/17; celestial pitons — 97/97, incl. under Ø 6 mm drill — 90/90; total TTP used — 230.

2010 Russian Mountaineering Championship. First Ascent Category

The summit of Kupol (2954 m) via the center of the North face of the East shoulder. Route category 6B (approx.), first ascent. Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge, Barun-Khandagai valley, 6.1 Irkutsk Region team

1. Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge, Barun-Khandagai valley, 6.1.
2. Summit Kupol (2954 m), via the center of the North face of the East shoulder.
3. Proposed category: 6B, first ascent.
4. Route type: rock.
5. Route height difference: 850 m Route length: 1218 m Main part height difference: 680 m

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock
2. Region — Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge
3. Peak — Zvezdny 2265 m via the western wall, rock
4. Proposed — 6A first ascent
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 590 m. total length — 655 m. length of sections with 5th difficulty grade — 180 m. length of sections with 6th difficulty grade — 250 m.

Passport

1. Rock climbing category.
2. Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge.
3. Zvezdny Peak, 2265 m, via the Northeast wall.
4. Proposed 6B category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain 575 m, route length 665 m, length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty 605 m, average slope 79°.
6. Pitons used: rock nuts bolts ice screws 103/54 214/114 27/17 7/0
7. Climbing time 67 hours, total duration 9 days (including acclimatization).

Ministry of Sports of Krasnoyarsk Krai

KRASNOYARSK KRAI ALPINISM FEDERATION

Russian Championship in Alpinism

2016

High-Altitude Technical Class

Report

On the first ascent by the Krasnoyarsk Krai team On Verchina Chernaya, 1915 m, via the center of the N wall, route "Chernaya Drozda" First ascent, orient. 6Az cat. diff. (First winter ascent in this area on the Taigishon wall) Krasnoyarsk 2016

Romana Ziasto traversing: 8th: Mine-maw, S. Tolgar, P. Tolgar, N. Tolgar, “right”, N. V. Tolgar (left — right)

Description of the First Ascent to the summit of Kara-Tau via the Southwest Ridge

Zailiyskiy Ala-Tau range. Covered in eternal snows, it stretches in a latitudinal direction for over 200 km. In its central part, it takes a direction close to meridional and reaches a height of five kilometers in the powerful Talgar trapezoid. East of Talgar is the peak Metallurg, whose pyramid rises to 4800 meters; to the southwest is Iyn-Tau, which raises its summit to 4830 meters. Against this backdrop, all other peaks seem like dwarfs, not representing sporting interest for climbers. But this is not the case. To the north of Metallurg peak, a spur called Ala-Tas (Motley stones) extends. In this spur, beyond the Taverentava pass, lies the Kara-Tau peak (Black mountain), for which the usual path via the Taverentava pass is not difficult and is classified as category 2A. From the west, three rocky ridges lead to the Kara-Tau peak, each representing significant sporting interest and considerable difficulty to overcome:

• the first ridge;
• the second ridge;
• the third ridge.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class: rock II. Ascent area: Zailiyskiy Alatau III. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Klyishtau. 4120. Central bastion of the North wall IV. Estimated difficulty category: 5B V. Route characteristics: height difference 975 m average steepness 40° average wall steepness 79° length of sections: R1 — 1877 m; R2 — 450 m; R3 — 385 m; R4 — 190 m; R5 — 465 m; R6 — 287 m.

Report

on the ascent of Pik Suloeva via the SW wall, right buttress, category 5B, second ascent, Central Pamir, Fortambek Glacier; accomplished by a group of climbers from the CS F and S expedition from August 10 to 12, 1980, consisting of:

• Petrov A.E. — leader, 1st sports category, instructor
• Maltsev I.V. — participant, 1st sports category, doctor
• Troyanov V.M. — participant, 1st sports category
• Filonov Yu.V. — participant, 1st sports category MOSCOW 1980 Since the first ascenders do not submit their route for classification, by agreement with V. M. Bozhukov, this route can be considered a first ascent. November 20, 1980 A.E. Petrov

Pik Suloeva